1950 Ford Crestliner tune up question

[Bob from Northport]

Getting ready to tune up a friends 1950 Crestliner with the original flat head engine.
Can anyone advise a good spark plug replacement?? NGK??

What is the plug gap??
Point gap???

Thanks!!

[Merc Cruzer]

NGK: B-6L
Plug gap: .029 -.032
Point gap: .014 -.016
Dwell: 26 deg - 28 1/2 deg
Initial timing of engine (dot on crank pulley): 2 deg BTC

I normally set it at the first mark. The second mark is full advance

[38 coupe]

I personally like Champion H-10C plugs, typically in parts systems as 844.
I gap the points, don't worry about the dwell.
Initial timing at dot on crank pulley.
Runs well.

[wga]

Bob, x2 on what Merc recommends. I use a vac gauge as well when adjusting timing,
and carb adjustment. Also use a Sears tune up set, don't want to admit when I purchased it.

[leon bee]

My Autolite 216s work real well.

[19Fordy]

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Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

NGK: B-6L
Plug gap: .029 -.032
Point gap: .014 -.016
Dwell: 26 deg - 28 1/2 deg
Initial timing of engine (dot on crank pulley): 2 deg BTC

I normally set it at the first mark. The second mark is full advance

Merc Cruzer: I see on your pulley the "dot" used for setting the distributer timing at idle at 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center. Please re-clarify for me the meaning of the other 2 white timing marks to the right of the "dot". I realize the crank pulley turns clockwise when viewed from front of engine. Thanks, Jim

[Graeme / New Zealand]

Ngk b6l

gb

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Merc Cruzer: I see on your pulley the "dot" used for setting the distributer timing at idle at 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center. Please re-clarify for me the meaning of the other 2 white timing marks to the right of the "dot". I realize the crank pulley turns clockwise when viewed from front of engine. Thanks, Jim

The mark closest to the dot is where I set my timing. The further mark is the full advance.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

The mark closest to the dot is where I set my timing. The further mark is the full advance.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

The mark closest to the dot is where I set my timing. The further mark is the full advance.

And what, may I ask, do you consider to be "full advance"?

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by tubman

And what, may I ask, do you consider to be "full advance"?

That mark was generated, when the engine rpm's were increased until it stopped advancing. It could probably be calculated in degrees, if I took time to measure it.

Not exactly scientific, but just an initially noted measurement for my engine. That was done before I had the distributor set on a Sun distributor machine, so it might be different now.

[tubman]

The reason I asked is that the first modified flathead I had (in the early 90's) had consistent overheating problems. It was 276" merc with Offenhauser heads, a MAX-1 cam, a 390 Holley, and an MSD ignition system. I ran it in a '36 3-window for about five years until this, and the cramped nature of the car made me give in to the "offer I couldn't refuse" from a local guy.

I later learned that those MSD setups had SBC advance curves with 36 degrees total advance. Knowing what I now now, I'm sure I could have solved the overheating problem, and as a result would still have the car.

Live and learn.

[Merc Cruzer]

When I rebuilt my engine, I used a new (different) block, fully tested, Over bored by .060, stock rods, new pistons, 1CM cam, stock 4" Mercury crank, a stock 1901 Holley, and EAC heads. I had the machine work done, but I disassembled and assembled it myself. I was trying to keep it as stock as possible, to match the rest of the car. No issues with over heating, which is remarkable considering when I come from a show in Denver back home I climb 3,000 feet (5,280 to 8,300) in 13 miles. After I had the distributor set on the Sun machine, it tends to run a bit cold, and slow to warm up. So I think I will keep her, since it is the first and last flat head I will probably ever rebuild. I got lucky, so I don't want to push it!

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

When I rebuilt my engine, I used a new (different) block, fully tested, Over bored by .060, stock rods, new pistons, 1CM cam, stock 4" Mercury crank, a stock 1901 Holley, and EAC heads. I had the machine work done, but I disassembled and assembled it myself. I was trying to keep it as stock as possible, to match the rest of the car. No issues with over heating, which is remarkable considering when I come from a show in Denver back home I climb 3,000 feet (5,280 to 8,300) in 13 miles. After I had the distributor set on the Sun machine, it tends to run a bit cold, and slow to warm up. So I think I will keep her, since it is the first and last flat head I will probably ever rebuild. I got lucky, so I don't want to push it!