Bench testing convertible top motor

[Merc Cruzer]

Could anyone help me with bench testing a 4 wire convertible top motor for my 1953 Mercury Convertible. I have attached a few pictures to identify the wires, hopefully the colors of the wires are distinguishable. I want to figure which combination of wires to attache to the 6 volt battery without the use of the relay. The color of the wires: the two on the left are white or possibly yellow, the second from the right appears to be black and white and the one on the right is green.

Thank you for you assistance.

[51 MERC-CT]

Puzzling as the schematic seems to show only 3 wires to the motor.
Suspect that the green loop end wire is the motor ground and the black one is the relay ground.
The other two are either up or down wires.
See if there is continuity between the motor ground and the relay ground.
If so then contact between the motor ground and either of the two remaining wires should give motor action.

[Merc Cruzer]

51 MERC-CT

It appears that the Mercury/Lincoln motor has three wires but the same motor use in the same year Ford had 4 wires

[Merc Cruzer]

Upon further testing it appears that I have continuity between the two outside wires and the second test I have continuity between the two inside wires. It would be my guess that the wire with the round grommet would be the ground for the relay. I would also guess the the two wires on the left in the picture would be the forward and reverse. Still trying to figure out which wires go to the pos and neg terminals of the battery. Do I need to pair up the black wire with the green wires (assuming they are both grounds) and attache them to the pos post of the battery and then touch one of the other wires to the neg post for the test. I would then change the directional wires for testing for forward and reverse. Let me know if this seems correct as I do not want to short out the motor, they are too hard to find and too expensive to repair. Thank you for your assistance.

[54vicky]

I think you will find the wire with eye is ground the red is power the middle ones are up and down.dont forget that you have positive ground.so it will appear backwards as to the ground being positive.yellow and green are up and down.hope this makes sense

[rotorwrench]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

There are several possible configurations of circuits for reversible motors. Polarity can be reversed on some (modern transistorized control) and many older ones have separate windings for one direction and the other. They can sometimes share a common ground and sometimes not depending on the components they use to build the circuit. A lot depends on how much torque they were designed to put out too. A person really needs a good diagram for what conductor wires are intended to do (wire color codes) and a good understanding of how the control relay is supposed to function. I figure the two circuits have to be isolated from each other for one to work without affecting the other.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

Upon further testing it appears that I have continuity between the two outside wires and the second test I have continuity between the two inside wires. It would be my guess that the wire with the round grommet would be the ground for the relay. I would also guess the the two wires on the left in the picture would be the forward and reverse. Still trying to figure out which wires go to the pos and neg terminals of the battery. Do I need to pair up the black wire with the green wires (assuming they are both grounds) and attache them to the pos post of the battery and then touch one of the other wires to the neg post for the test. I would then change the directional wires for testing for forward and reverse. Let me know if this seems correct as I do not want to short out the motor, they are too hard to find and too expensive to repair. Thank you for your assistance.

Try momentarily connecting ground + (without pairing any wires) to either of the two outer wires.

[rotorwrench]

The diagram has part of it cut off that can't be seen. Ford used yellow coded conductors for power and you can see that in the diagram from the circuit breaker. The green wire from the motor with the ring terminal wire is likely the ground for the whole unit. It should have continuity from the ring terminal to the body of the motor unless it is isolated. The black, yellow, and red conductor wires from the motor with the U terminals appear to be the control wires. I'd sure like to know how that relay switches the contacts.

[Merc Cruzer]

I can verify that none of the wires have continuity to the body of the motor. FYI, this is an original convertible top motor form 1953.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I'd sure like to know how that relay switches the contacts.

Probably something as simple as two relays, one for up and one for down.
Controlled by the two position switch which acts as a ground.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by 54vicky

I think you will find the wire with eye is ground the red is power the middle ones are up and down.dont forget that you have positive ground.so it will appear backwards as to the ground being positive.yellow and green are up and down.hope this makes sense

Just make sure we are on the same page:
Wire with the round eye goes to the + side of the battery (pos ground)
Red wire for to the (-) side of the battery
Then the yellow or green wire then goes to what side of the battery?

[51 MERC-CT]

With green wire hooked to + ground.
Touch red wire only with neg bat. Motor should turn.
Remove red wire and touch yellow wire only to neg. bat. Motor should turn in opposite direction.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

With green wire hooked to + ground.
Touch red wire only with neg bat. Motor should turn.
Remove red wire and touch yellow wire only to neg. bat. Motor should turn in opposite direction.

The issue is that in reality there are no red and yellow wires, only two off white wires, a black wire and green wire, so they do not match the color coding on the diagrams. With that being said I connected the wire with the round grommet to the (+) ground and then separately touched each of the two off- white wires to the (-) Neg post. One sparked but the motor did not run and the other resulted in nothing at all.

[Merc Cruzer]

By way of additional information this is a Redmond 6v 17W11 motor

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

The issue is that in reality there are no red and yellow wires, only two off white wires, a black wire and green wire, so they do not match the color coding on the diagrams. With that being said I connected the wire with the round grommet to the (+) ground and then separately touched each of the two off- white wires to the (-) Neg post. One sparked but the motor did not run and the other resulted in nothing at all.

Did you try the remaining wire?

[Merc Cruzer]

Rather than wondering, it was time to take it apart to see just where each wire went. Sometimes you need to look into the belly of the beast.

From the original picture with the motor and wires:

The wire with the round grommet (green) goes to the left side of the field winding.

The off white wire (second from the left) goes to the left brush

The black wire (third from the left) goes to the right brush

The off white wire (on the far left) goes to the right field winding.

Hope this helps, and thanks again for all of your assistance. Any tests while it is apart?

[Frank Miller]

Read up on it here. I don't have time to study but you have wires for the armature at the brushes and the field. The relay will reverse one of these. Maybe someone else can figure out which one.
https://www.quora.com/How-can-one-re...-of-a-DC-motor

[Frank Miller]

Try this. Take the two armature wires and make one positive and one negative. Do the same with the two field wires. This should make it turn in one direction. Reverse the +/- on the field and it should spin the opposite. If you're worried about burning something up then throw a 20 amp cb in the circuit. There is no load so this should spin easily on 20 amps.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by Frank Miller

Try this. Take the two armature wires and make one positive and one negative. Do the same with the two field wires. This should make it turn in one direction. Reverse the +/- on the field and it should spin the opposite. If you're worried about burning something up then throw a 20 amp cb in the circuit. There is no load so this should spin easily on 20 amps.

Frank,

Worked perfectly. Since basically you are creating two dead shorts on the battery the wires got hot quickly. But I was able to test in both directions by switching the field wires. I am now wondering if the relay controls the amperage, otherwise the wires would be fired by simply putting the top up or down.

Could this motor be converted into a 3 wire motor?

Thanks again,

Roy (Merc Cruzer)

[Frank Miller]

A motor is essentially a dead short at initial start. A three wire motor might have the pos brush wire grounded to the case internally. You would then have a negative wire to connect and then the relay would switch the field wires back and forth.
This should explain what is going on. I noticed a 40 amp fuse in the circuit so you should have a fairly heavy wire here.
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-si...F-in-DC-motors

[Merc Cruzer]

The part numbers for the relays used for the 3 wire motor is FAA 14512-A or FAA 14546-A. Does anyone know the part number for the relay used on the 4 wire motor for the 1953-54 Fords?

Thank you for your assistance,

Roy ( Merc Cruzer)

[Merc Cruzer]

Would anyone have a picture or the part number for the 4 wire motor relay for the convertible top motor as shown in the attached diagram?

[Merc Cruzer]

Thought I would finish my original question. As it turns out the window motors on the 53' Merc are all 4 wire motors. So by taking the diagram for the window motors and using a window motor relay, I was able to complete the bench test of my new 4 wire top motor. There was the question, which wires acted in pairs. Two ways to find out. One is by taking the motor apart and tracing the wires, the other is to accept that the wire with the round grommet is the ground wire. In this case it is the (+), since this is a positive ground car. Then all you need to do is use a multi-meter and find the other wire that has continuity with the ground wire and you have the first pair. The other two wires then become the 2nd pair. Since the only wire diagram I had showed wire coding that did not match the wires on the motor, I used colored shrink tubing to code the wires on the motor to match the diagram. I did go the extra step and paint the tabs of the terminals on the relay just to make it easier if I took all of the wires off of the relay and lost the wiring diagram. I have attached a couple of pictures that reflect the bench test. I realize that this information will only apply to less than 5% of you out there, the ones that have 3 or 4 wire motors and screw jacks to lift the convertible top of your 52'-53' Ford or Mercury, but some times the question just needs to be answered and any way these motors are getting real hard for find in working condition. This way you can be a bit more flexible in your search for a replacement or back up motor, screw jacks and relay - which is what this system is for me, since it is always good to have the hard to find spares.

[Frank Miller]

Thanks for the update. While the window relays work they may not be able to handle the higher amps of the top. You may be able to cobble some relays together if you cannot find the right one.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by Frank Miller

Thanks for the update. While the window relays work they may not be able to handle the higher amps of the top. You may be able to cobble some relays together if you cannot find the right one.

Frank,

That was one of my original issues, in that I don't have a picture of the top relay for a 4 wire motor and the wiring diagram the relay appears to be different. I will say that on the three wire motor relays, they are the same ones used on the seat motor. The tests so far, no issues other than it appears a bit slower than a three wire motor, but that could just be the differences between the two motors.

[rotorwrench]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

We used to use a multi function relay for the starter/generators so that they could change functions after start. They called them a reverse current cut out relay or RCCR. The company quit making them so now we us a gang of two start relays to provide the two functions. A person might be able to do that with a top motor to replace those old multi function relays. We also use a bridge of 4 transistors for directional control on trim controls but they are better on light duty motors that don't draw so many amps.

[Frank Miller]

Here is a schematic using double pole relays I think will work. Noticed I powered the armature from the field relays as there is only one switch point. I think you can find 40amp 6 volt relays. Maybe someone knows more of what's available.

[Sunnybob]

Hi Folks, I have a 53 Monterey Convertible here in Italy and the top is not working. This thread is very interesting and I'm going to test if motor is still good. Unfortunally past owners removed original top relay and used a pair of home applications relays!! (Car were sold here in the 50s and american cars part were very rare to have). Anyway I saw Frank's schematic and I would like to ask if a pair of 40Ampere 12V relay will work as it's almost impossible to find 6volts ones. Thank you.

[Merc Cruzer]

They can be found, but not cheap. Luckily you have a 3 wire motor and not a 4 wire motor. The relays for the 4 wire motors are harder to find.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36412287820...Bk9SR7DD2eqNYg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/15423084612...Bk9SR7DD2eqNYg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40205685266...Bk9SR8ri1MiOYg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16550836018...Bk9SR8ri1MiOYg


https://www.ebay.com/itm/32566971234...Bk9SR8zi1MiOYg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/15477654840...Bk9SR8zi1MiOYg

Interestingly enough, the most expensive one is "for parts only"! I have found it it doesn't work, pull the cover off and clean the points, and you are good to go.

You might be able to to get a 12 volt relay to work but I haven't had much luck doing that.

I take it that you have tested the motor and it works? Since yours is only a three wire motor, it is easy: one goes clockwise the other goes counter clockwise and the last one is the ground.

Make sure you have a good power supply wire. Mine is wired directly to the battery side of the starter relay, and has it's own circuit breaker.

[Sunnybob]

Thank you for your answer but my motor has 4 wires, unfortunally. It's my fault as the picture is terrible.



We are going to test it, but it is not easy because somebody add 2 home type relays. Which is the best way to check only the motor, in your opinion? Is there any system to give it power directly?



About the relays. Is it voltage so important using them? I presume they are there to avoid 40amp through the switch, so do really care if voltage is 6 or 12v?



I'm going also to add some 12v circuit breaker as some are gone and they are not available here... They should work as the cut of current if there is too much amperage... Am I wrong?

[Sunnybob]

Another question... Under the rear seat, close to the top motor there is also this connector/realay with no wires to it. Is it original? Do you know what is it for, please? Thank you.

[Merc Cruzer]

Do you have a convertible top switch in the car? It should look like this:

Label all the ends of the wires. Take a good picture of the wiring and motor. At some point I may want you to disconnect all the wiring from the relays. Do you have a multi meter?

Could you post a better picture of the wiring and the motor? I am trying to see what color wires you have coming from the motor.

Since you have a 4 wire motor the wiring schematic labels that as a Ford motor not a Mercury motor.

Thank you,

Roy

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by Sunnybob

Another question... Under the rear seat, close to the top motor there is also this connector/realay with no wires to it. Is it original? Do you know what is it for, please? Thank you.

I would guess those were the circuit beakers, quite possibly for the top motor and if you have them, the rear power windows. When the top motor was rewired, they just were't used. They are 6 volt.

Does your car have power windows and is if so do they work?

When I rewired mine, I located the , circuit breakers, under the back seat, closer to the relay and motor.

[Merc Cruzer]

This is the correct convertible top relay (actually window and seat, but it works) for your 4 wire top motor:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32567349907...Bk9SR5L7j5-OYg

The third picture is the actual relay for your car,but it is hard to find:

[Sunnybob]

Hi Roy, thank you for your support. Car is at repair shop now and yes we have a multimeter. Here some better pics and videos.

Here video links :

https://youtube.com/shorts/PB5bW0b__N4?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/MIfQhmyOLfc?feature=share


Are they ok? AS you can see there are lots of wires going to home style realys.. Should we label all them?

Switch is still original(3 wires).


About the other connectors. Car has Power windows and power seat. Rear power windows have been changed to manual and have no motors. They are gone

Front seems working but very slowly. Seat motor has been disconnected.


Thank you so much

[Merc Cruzer]

Good, you have a power seat. Since yours is disconnected, you might be able to use the relay from the power seat, for the power top. mine has a power seat too.

I can relate to your wiring, when I bought my car the wiring looks just a bad as yours. My second photo will show your where the top switch wires go. I am going to assume that the wiring configuration you currently have, worked at some point. So we are initially going to try to use what is there, for test purposes.

See if you can figure out where the wires from your top switch, connect to your relays. Then attach the power leads to your battery and see if you can use the the wires from the switch to short out the up and down wires to the ground. In my picture the blue wire is the common and the black and white wires are the up and down. You can test them with a multi meter to see where and when you have power. You can use a 12 volt for now, but remember the car is pos ground, unless that has been changed at some point. What battery was in the car, a 6 volt or 12 volt?

You mentioned the rear powere windows are gone are the relays still there?

[Sunnybob]

Car is 6v positive ground. I'm going to test it.. Stay tuned. Thank you again

[Merc Cruzer]

A few more pictures that might help, along with the wiring diagram, if you use a window/ seat relay, since the window motor is also a 4 wire motor.

The last two pictures show the window motor (a 4 wire motor) hooked up to the window relay, along with showing the ground and power terminals. It also shows the three wires going to the switch. I am more of a visual person, so some times, having a wiring schematic, doesn't work as well as a picture.

[Sunnybob]

Roy, thank you so much for your support! I really appreciate.


The motor is working . One of house style relay was blown!



The next step will be to take the seat relay and use it to test the connection following your directions.


I'll let you know

[Merc Cruzer]

Glad it worked for you. Any other pictures or information I can provide, feel free to let me know. 53' Mercury convertible in Italy, now you don't see that everyday! Feel free to post more pictures of your car. I know every body has seen mine but since you are new to the Barn.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

Glad it worked for you. Any other pictures or information I can provide, feel free to let me know. 53' Mercury convertible in Italy, now you don't see that everyday! Feel free to post more pictures of your car. I know every body has seen mine but since you are new to the Barn.

[Sunnybob]

Roy, your Mercury convertible is amazing! It reminds me so much of Lucy's car Thank you for sharing pics!



As you said 1953 Mercury are very rare in Italy. Mine was register in 1958 at Livorno, Tuscany. (still have original plate) I presume it was imported new by an American soldier as very close to Livorno there is Camp Darby base.



In those days American cars were very, very expensive here in Italy: they cost as much as a Ferrari, so they were usually bought by very rich people (actors, nobles, ecc) and usually they were loaded with all power options. First italian owner of my Mercury was Ivo Pera, a businessman who in 70s bought the ISO RIVOLTA brand (with no fortune as they closed after few years).


The car has been forgotten for decades and after year 2000 she went back on the road, but with owners who were not very smart, people who have only made temporary or tasteless repairs (like the red soft top).


Two months ago I found her in a collector's warehouse and I bought her. Now I'm trying to make her road ready again.


Roberto

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Sunnybob

Roy, your Mercury convertible is amazing! It reminds me so much of Lucy's car Thank you for sharing pics!

As you said 1953 Mercury are very rare in Italy. Mine was register in 1958 at Livorno, Tuscany. (still have original plate) I presume it was imported new by an American soldier as very close to Livorno there is Camp Darby base.

In those days American cars were very, very expensive here in Italy: they cost as much as a Ferrari, so they were usually bought by very rich people (actors, nobles, ecc) and usually they were loaded with all power options. First italian owner of my Mercury was Ivo Pera, a businessman who in 70s bought the ISO RIVOLTA brand (with no fortune as they closed after few years).

The car has been forgotten for decades and after year 2000 she went back on the road, but with owners who were not very smart, people who have only made temporary or tasteless repairs (like the red soft top).

Two months ago I found her in a collector's warehouse and I bought her. Now I'm trying to make her road ready again.

Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Speaking of the Lucy car (The long Long Trailer) I did a my own version of that.

What a great history for your car. The body appears to be in great shape. It is the first one I have seen in Banff Blue.

Your tail lights appear to have been modified. I have attached a few pictures of mine to include the complete light, without the frame and the frame separately.These are still available on e-bay, if you want them. I have modified mine with the addition of the blue dot.

What options does your car have: power windows, power seat (2 way or 4 way), power steering, power brakes? Any modification to the engine?

What color is your interior?

Let me knwo if I can help you find any parts. I am retired, so I have the time.

[tubman]

That car looks "un-Mercury-like" to me in several aspects. I remember being in Winnipeg in 1957 and seeing contemporary Plymouths with Dodge front sheetmetal (we called them "Plodges"). This looks like a Ford with Mercury front sheet metal. Could this be made in Canada?

The taillights aren't standard Merc, either.

[Merc Cruzer]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Matches mine, all except the tail light lenses. He would probably like to know where and when it was built.

Roberto,

If you want to decode your vin tag in the drivers door jamb, this is what you will need:

[Sunnybob]

Unfortunally I miss the towing hitch to try to make a Lucy's Monterey with another colour


About the tail lights. Yes they are not original as they are the rear lights of Alfa Romeo Giulietta Berlina 2nd and 3rd series (from '59 to '63)



https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfa_R...ulietta_(1955)


In 1959 in Italy was issued a new road code laws and red turn signal were not permitted, so almost all American cars were adapted with lights of European production. The lateral repeater on the front fenders also became mandatory (you can see it on mine).



Today I could restore the correct US lighting (it's not allowed but it's tolerated), but I'm not sure I would because the modification made at the end of the 50s is in fact part of the vehicle's history. Still thinking about this...


The car has original 255 flathead with Merc-o-matic transmission, is still very solid (no rust under). Was equipped with power windows, power top, power seat (don't know if 4 or 6 way) as it has been disconnected and originale switch went lost. Unfortunally no power steering and no power brakes. Has also heater, radio and clock. Interior is blue and white.



I enclose some more pics (interior and vin number). I already checked the codes before buying and banff blues is correct.



I haven't drive her yet. When I bought she was sleeping from 2015... Brakes were gone, engine started but runs bad (now is running fine after changing spark plugs, cable, points, ecc). Fuel pump leaks, tank was rusty, the previous owner had also connected the battery backwards (negative to ground) causing a problem with the generator and voltage regulator.
At the shop where is now they are repairing all things are bad, but as she is not a daily driver car they worked on it when the have extra time... And everything must be ordered in the USA with a shipping delay of usually 3 weeks.

[Merc Cruzer]

The history, per your vin plate codes:

#53ME71295M#:

the car was built in 1953 at the ME ( Metuchen, NJ plant) 71295 (serial identification number) M (Mercury)

BG76B ( Six Passanger Monterey Convertible)

07369-101-316-115:

07 - Paint code: Banff Blue
369 - Trim scheme: (Blue and Ivory Vinyl)
101 - Convertible top code: (Black-Black binding)
31G - (built on July 31st) it was a Friday
115 - (it was the 115 car built on the assembly line that day)

[Merc Cruzer]

No tailor hitch on my car, it was just a photo opp, when the trailer was parked in a local lot, for sale.

Did the original air cleaner come with your car?

When I had my interior completely redone last year, (my inter code is 372 (Yellow and Black leather)), we couldn't find an American suppler for the yellow leather. We wound up getting the leather (black and yellow) from DANI, through their outlet in NY:

ITALY

DANI S.p.A.
Head Office & Automotive Division
Z.I. Via Della Concia, 186
36071 Arzignano (VI) – ITALY
Tel. +39 0444 454111
Fax +39 0444 670864
[email protected]

Small world!

If you are looking for a good convertible top mfg, since they have the original patterns, I would recommend:

http://www.aro2000.com/

The top pictures were taken, before the sun visors were finished with the correct piping.

As to the power seats. If you have one switch on the front of the seat, it is a 2 way seat (forward and back - one motor). If you have two switches on the front of the seat, it is a 4 way seat, one switch moves it forward and back and the other mover is up and down (two motors).

[Sunnybob]

I really love your yellow Monterey, she shines like the day it left the assembly lane!


Happy to know you find the leather by an italian supplier, we have very good craftmen here in Italy. My top, for example, is very good made, unfortunally it is wrong colour, but this is a shame of the previous owner.


I see you have also power steering and power brake. Power brake unit seems a treadle vac, as I had one in a 57 Mercury Commuter I had some years ago. Usually I dont's miss power brakes too much, but I really would like to add power steering.. There are some kits out of there, I will check them when the car will be road ready. There is so much work to do till that day.



Sometimes seems the car founded here came from Cuba. No spare parts and a lot fantasy. You alredy saw alfa tail lights but there are lots of adapted spare parts. Original air cleaner went lost and Master cylinder come from a Fiat Multipla

Anyway.. The car is sound, very rare here (probably the only one convertible) so she deserves to be repaired at the best I can.


Ciao


Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

Sent you an e-mail with a video, so you could take a ride with me. (I have posted it previously on the Ford Barn). If you need pictures of anything on your car, feel free to contact me. When I got mine it was in a 100 boxes, so I have touched every inch of the car at some point. I have the chassis and body parts books along with the service manuals for the car and accessories for 53'.

Roy Lange
Conifer, CO
(303) 838-2028
[email protected]


Roberto,

Ti ho inviato un'e-mail con un video, in modo da poter fare un giro con me. (L'ho pubblicato in precedenza sul fienile Ford). Se hai bisogno di foto di qualcosa sulla tua auto, sentiti libero di contattarmi. Quando ho ottenuto il mio era in 100 scatole, quindi ho toccato ogni centimetro della macchina ad un certo punto. Ho i libri di telaio e parti del corpo insieme ai manuali di servizio per l'auto e gli accessori per 53 '.

Roy Lange
Conifer, CO
(303) 838-2028
[email protected]

[Sunnybob]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

Roberto,

Sent you an e-mail with a video, so you could take a ride with me. (I have posted it previously on the Ford Barn). If you need pictures of anything on your car, feel free to contact me. When I got mine it was in a 100 boxes, so I have touched every inch of the car at some point. I have the chassis and body parts books along with the service manuals for the car and accessories for 53'.

Roy Lange
Conifer, CO
(303) 838-2028
[email protected]


Roberto,

Ti ho inviato un'e-mail con un video, in modo da poter fare un giro con me. (L'ho pubblicato in precedenza sul fienile Ford). Se hai bisogno di foto di qualcosa sulla tua auto, sentiti libero di contattarmi. Quando ho ottenuto il mio era in 100 scatole, quindi ho toccato ogni centimetro della macchina ad un certo punto. Ho i libri di telaio e parti del corpo insieme ai manuali di servizio per l'auto e gli accessori per 53 '.

Roy Lange
Conifer, CO
(303) 838-2028
[email protected]

Roy, your italian is better than my english!! You wrote in almost perfect italian


I will sure contact you as you know this car better than who build it ;-) I'm going to write you an email as I did not received your video. Something went wrong. Thank you so much



Ciao


Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

Thank to, I will look forward to any questions you might have.

Roy



Roberto,

Grazie, non vedo l'ora di avere qualsiasi domanda tu possa avere.

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Hi Roy, here the first question: is the driver side cable (the cable that goes from top motor to driver side screw jack) available as part? Do you know exact name and part number?



We managed to make the motor working but that cable is gone...



2nd question, as driver side jack screw is crooked, do you know if available? We could manage to repair it, but if a more nice one is available it's would be better


Thank you. Ciao!


Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

Cables:

I have never come across a set of these in 13 years. So if you can repair it, that might be your only option.

Shaft Assembly (Top Lift Drive):

R.H. - length- 11 5/8" - BA7650612-A
L.H. - length - 34 1/4" - BA7650613-A

The Ford numbers for the same cables are:
BF 7650600-E
BF 7650601-E

Lift Assembly (Folding Top) (screw jacks)

In theory they are are/were available, but you will only find them on e-bay or at a swap meet. They do show up from time to time on e-bay is your are patient. If you are careful, the screws can be straightened ( I know because when I got my car both were bent). I recommend a steel "V" block and a press. The Part numbers of the two screw jacks are:

R.H. - BA7650600-A
L.H. - BA7650601-A

Another option is to convert to hydraulic, as Ford/Mercury did in 54 '. Then you exchange the electric motor with a pump and screw jack with hydraulic ram. There are companies that sell complete conversions.

https://www.hydroe.com/convertible-t...ford-sunliner/

https://www.hydroe.com/convertible-m...p-6-volt-mp-6/

https://www.hydroe.com/yoke-for-top-...949-1954-ford/

https://www.hydroe.com/top-hose-set/


Roberto,

Cavi:

Non mi sono mai imbattuto in una serie di questi in 13 anni. Quindi, se riesci a ripararlo, questa potrebbe essere la tua unica opzione.

Gruppo dell'albero (azionamento a sollevamento superiore):

R.H. - Lunghezza- 11 5/8 " - BA7650612 -A
L.H. - Lunghezza - 34 1/4 " - BA7650613 -A

I numeri Ford per gli stessi cavi sono:
BF 7650600-E
BF 7650601-E

Assemblaggio di sollevamento (superiore pieghevole) (vite)

In teoria sono/erano disponibili, ma li troverai solo su e-bay o durante un incontro di scambio. Si presentano di tanto in tanto su e-bay è il tuo paziente. Se stai attento, le viti possono essere raddrizzate (lo so perché quando ho avuto la mia auto erano entrambi piegati). Consiglio un blocco "V" in acciaio e una stampa. I numeri di parte dei due viti sono:

R.H. - BA7650600 -A
L.H. - BA7650601 -A

Un'altra opzione è diventare idrolica, come ha fatto Ford/Mercury in 54 '. Quindi si scambia il motore elettrico con un motore della pompa e le prese a vite con arieti idrolici. Ci sono aziende che vendono la conversione completa.

https://www.hydroe.com/convertible-t...ford-sunliner/

https://www.hydroe.com/convertible-m...p-6-volt-mp-6/

https://www.hydroe.com/yoke-for-top-...949-1954-ford/

https://www.hydroe.com/top-hose-set/

[Sunnybob]

Roy, thank you. I used your part numbers
to set alert on ebay. So fingers crossed!

Another question about the color of the rims. At the factory, were they painted with the same colour of the body or were they red? I saw so many pics with them red that I'm confused. And the Hubcaps? Were they always painted red?



Ciao


Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

The wheels were Vermilion Red. Now as to how they were painted. When the wheels came into the factory they were all Black. In a cost saving measure (something old Henry was known for) they were only painted on the side of the rim facing out. To be correct, you will need to spray through the rim holes so over spray gets on the back.

As to the color of the hubcaps (either the full caps or the dog dish), they too were sprayed red. I use the One Shot paint (sign painters paint): 1/4 Pint 1 Shot 108L MAROON Paint Lettering Enamel Pinstriping One Shot.

If you are planing on running bias ply tires, there should be no issue with your full size hubcaps. But is you are planing on running radials, the hubcaps will come, usually with in a few miles, because the wheels will flex. That is why I am using the Dog Dish hubcaps on my car. These were factory caps and usually found on the "Low End " models and on station wagons. They will stay on the wheels.


Roberto,

Le ruote erano rosse da vermilion. Ora su come sono stati dipinti. Quando le ruote entrarono in fabbrica erano tutte nere. In una misura di risparmio sui costi (qualcosa per cui era noto qualcosa di vecchio) furono dipinti solo sul lato del bordo rivolto verso l'esterno. Per essere corretti, dovrai spruzzare attraverso i fori del bordo in modo che lo spray si metta sul retro.

Per quanto riguarda il colore dei topi dei mozzi (o i tappi completi o il piatto del cane), anche loro sono stati spruzzati in rosso. Uso la vernice a un colpo (vernice per pittori di segni): 1/4 pinta 1 scatto 108L Maroon Paint Lettering Smalping Pinstriping One Shot .

Se si prevede di eseguire pneumatici di pregiudizi, non ci dovrebbero essere problemi con i topi hub a grandezza naturale. Ma stai pianificando di correre radiali, i topi dei hub arriveranno, di solito con poche miglia, perché le ruote si fletteranno. Questo è il motivo per cui sto usando i topi dei percorsi per cani sulla mia auto. Questi erano tappi di fabbrica e di solito si trovano sui modelli "di fascia bassa" e sui carri della stazione. Rimarranno sulle ruote.

[Sunnybob]

Roy, thank you again. My car has radials on and now I understand why they make an hole in each hubcaps to fix them with a nut!

[Sunnybob]

Roy, just checked on the net about the dog dish hubcaps and I presume they are quite rare as I can't find any for sale...

[Merc Cruzer]

Found one and it is over priced. They will usually come up under 54' or 55' Mercury, and will have a White back ground, behind the head, so you will have to paint them. Keep searching, it may take a while. You will also need the trim rings (you can see them in the pictures).

Trovato uno ed è troppo prezzo. Di solito arriveranno meno di 54 'o 55' Mercurio e avranno una parte posteriore bianca, alla testa, quindi dovrai dipingerli. Continua a cercare, potrebbe richiedere un po 'di tempo. Avrai anche bisogno degli anelli di rivestimento (puoi vederli nelle immagini).


https://www.ebay.com/itm/11582542418...Bk9SR7TIrMKTYg

[Sunnybob]

Hi Roy,

got another question, please.

What is missing on the driver side inside fender? There are 4 holes (only 2 of them are in the pictures), but nothing there....
Thank you.
Ciao


Roberto

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Sunnybob

Hi Roy,

got another question, please.

What is missing on the driver side inside fender? There are 4 holes (only 2 of them are in the pictures), but nothing there....
Thank you.
Ciao


Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

The 4 holes do not show up on my car. Possibly one of the previous owners had something mounted there and one time.

Question for you: what numbers are on the back of your carburetor on the bottom? I have attached a picture of my carb.

Roy



Roberto,

I 4 fori non si presentano sulla mia macchina. Forse uno dei precedenti proprietari aveva qualcosa montato lì e una volta.

Domanda per te: quali numeri sono sul retro del tuo carburatore in fondo? Ho attaccato una foto del mio carboidrati.

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Roy,



Thank you. I'm quite far from the shop where the car is, but I asked to the mechanic to check. Will let you know as soon as I can.


I see you have a "keg" near the fender... I think I miss it. Is it a vacuum tank?


Ciao

[Merc Cruzer]

Not sure what you are referring to: I see you have a "keg" near the fender... I think I miss it. Is it a vacuum tank?


If you are referring to the bottle with the blue fluid that is the windshield washer bottle.


Non sono sicuro a cosa ti riferisci: vedo che hai un "barile" vicino al parafango ... Penso che mi manchi. È un serbatoio a vuoto?


Se ti riferisci alla bottiglia con il fluido blu che è la bottiglia della rondella del parabrezza.

[Sunnybob]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Hi Roy, not the washer bottle with the Blue fluid. I mean the black can in the driver side fender..

[Merc Cruzer]

I think you mean this, the fresh air supply tube.


Penso che tu intenda questo, il tubo di alimentazione dell'aria fresca.

[Sunnybob]

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

I think you mean this, the fresh air supply tube.


Penso che tu intenda questo, il tubo di alimentazione dell'aria fresca.

Yes, thank you

[Merc Cruzer]

If you had power brakes, the vacuum tank for the Treadle Vac power booster would be located under here. Your wipers and washer run off of your dual action fuel pump.

Se avessi freni di potenza, il serbatoio del vuoto per il booster di potenza di Peadle VAC sarebbe situato qui sotto. I tergicristalli e la lavatrice scappano dalla tua pompa del carburante a doppia azione.

[Sunnybob]

Thank you Roy, I saw there is video for me. I will check it soon. I'm out of town for 2 days.


Here the pics of the carb you asked for.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by Sunnybob

Thank you Roy, I saw there is video for me. I will check it soon. I'm out of town for 2 days.


Here the pics of the carb you asked for.

Thank you,

Grazie

[Sunnybob]

Roy, why asked for my carb numbers? I'm curious as a cat :-p

[Merc Cruzer]

Robereto,

The answer is in another post I had going.

La risposta è in un altro post che ho fatto.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...56#post2232756

[Sunnybob]

As always, complicated situations become more difficult
The driver's side drive cable broke beyond repair. I was considering the idea, before switching to the hydraulic kit, to try a 70's GM cable.

In your opinion... could it work?

I can't figure out the exact length and diameter of the cable, anybody knows them? Thank you.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/14362732797...Bk9SR7iGvIqZYg

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

Since the cable is compatible with numerous "full size" American made cars of the mid 70's, I would guess they should be strong enough. If I were you I would contact them to see if the square tips at the end of the cables, where they mount into the motor and jacks, are the same size or close enough to work. The add states:

We carry a full line of convertible top and power window parts for U.S. cars from 1946 through present day. Have questions about this product or any other product you might be looking for?

Please message us and we will reply as soon as possible. We look forward to speaking with you!.

Good luck with your search,

Roy





Roberto,

Poiché il cavo è compatibile con numerose auto "a grandezza naturale" di American Made della metà degli anni '70, immagino che dovrebbero essere abbastanza forti. Se fossi in te li contatto per vedere se le punte quadrate all'estremità dei cavi, dove si avvicinano al motore e ai jack, hanno le stesse dimensioni o abbastanza vicine da funzionare. Gli Stati Aggiungi:

We trasporta una linea completa di parti convertibili e finestre di potenza per le auto statunitensi dal 1946 ai giorni nostri. Hai domande su questo prodotto o su qualsiasi altro prodotto che potresti cercare?

Si prega di inviarci un messaggio e risponderemo al più presto. Non vediamo l'ora di parlare con te!.

Buona fortuna con la tua ricerca,

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Roy,
I made a search on internet to know GM cable specification, but I didn't found anything so I sent them a message to know how long is it and what is its diameter. I asked here in Italy to many craftmen, but the real problem is it shoud rotate both side and nobody has anything so big (diameter is 3/16)....

Thank you


Ciao


Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

I just watched a video of a 76 Cadillac convertible top and they only use one cable, so I think the strength should be sufficient, since Mercury uses two cables.

https://search.aol.com/aol/video;_yl...d4&action=view

I sent them an inquiry about the size of the tip.

Thanks,

Roy


Roberto,

Ho appena guardato un video di un top convertibile Cadillac 76 e usano solo un cavo, quindi penso che la forza dovrebbe essere sufficiente, poiché Mercurio usa due cavi.

https://search.aol.com/aol/video ;_ylt=AWRFCDQVO1ktguezk1pcwvh ;_ylu=y29sbwnizjeecg9zaziednrpzamec2vja3nj?q=1976+ Cadillac+ & vid = f41ad3f09b46d8c80dabb428106e27d4 & action = view

Ho inviato loro un'indagine sulle dimensioni della punta.

Grazie,

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Roy, they have two cables too. Part numbers are gm 9874738 and gm 9874739. Driver side is blue and is longer as in Mercury. I presume they should be as big as Fomoco because as you said they make a great effort. Here a video https://youtu.be/qQaVC4gs3ZE


I can't see where the driver side connect to motor. Maybe we could replace motor too ...


Edit: found how it works. Here the motor! https://youtu.be/1qxrc1Khp58

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

This video shows where both cables screw into the motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9ON21Vx4fs

Learn something new everyday. I would have guessed that all of the cars would have been hydraulic by then. Ford gave up on the screw jacks in 53' and went back to hydraulic.

If you re thinking going over to 12 volt, this would definitely be an option for you.

Roberto,

Questo video mostra dove entrambi i cavi si avvitano nel motore.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9on21vx4fs

Impara qualcosa di nuovo ogni giorno. Avrei indovinato che tutte le auto sarebbero state idrauliche da allora. Ford ha rinunciato ai martinetti a vite in 53 'e è tornata all'idraulica.

Se stai pensando di andare a 12 volt, questa sarebbe sicuramente un'opzione per te.

[Sunnybob]

Good news about top motor and power top system. The GM Cables of 1971-1976 full size convertible work perfectly with Fomoco equipment.



Finally I have the top opening and closing


Thank so much to Roy for his support, I very appreciate.



Here the video of the top working


https://youtu.be/WYDwHVYvazA

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

I am glad it worked out for you. Did you have a 12 volt battery, hooked up to the motor when you did the movie? The reason I ask, is that the entire movie is only 57 seconds long and that is about the time it takes for me to put my top up.

Roy



Roberto,

Sono contento che abbia funzionato per te. Avevi una batteria da 12 volt, collegata al motore quando hai fatto il film? Il motivo per cui chiedo è che l'intero film è lungo solo 57 secondi e questo è il tempo necessario per me di mettere il mio raggio.

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Roy, I was not there but I presume it was on 6 volts. I'm going to ask to Massimo, the mechanic.


I watched this video and you can se how fast is the top of that black Monterey (faster than mine)...


https://youtu.be/6PAvz_tiD28 Go to min 9.40.


Edit:
Massimo told me it was working on 6 volts-

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

The Black Monterey has a 12 volt battery in his car.

Now I am jealous, my car take 58 seconds to put the top up and 26 seconds to put the top down.

I always though this movie segment, from the Long Long Trailer, showing the top going down was fast.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50OFuouSZm4

Well back to work for me!

Roy


Roberto,

Il Black Monterey ha una batteria da 12 volt nella sua auto.

Ora sono geloso, la mia auto impiega 58 secondi per mettere in alto e 26 secondi per mettere la parte superiore.

Ho sempre pensato che questo segmento di film, dal lungo trailer lungo, che mostrava che la parte superiore scendeva era veloce.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50ofUUSZM4

Bene, torna al lavoro per me!

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Roy,


you are right, Lucy's top seems faster as mine and it is quite strange your top is slower.. But if it works I would not worry about it


Ciao


Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

You are not officially a 53' Mercury convertible owner, until you have watched the movie "The Long Long Trailer".

When do you get your car back, to start driving and enjoying it?

Later,

Roy

Roberto,

Non sei ufficialmente un proprietario convertibile da Mercury, fino a quando non hai visto il film "The Long Long Trailer".

Quando riporta la tua auto per iniziare a guidare e divertirti?

Dopo,

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

Roberto,

You are not officially a 53' Mercury convertible owner, until you have watched the movie "The Long Long Trailer".

When do you get your car back, to start driving and enjoying it?

Later,

Roy

Roberto,

Non sei ufficialmente un proprietario convertibile da Mercury, fino a quando non hai visto il film "The Long Long Trailer".

Quando riporta la tua auto per iniziare a guidare e divertirti?

Dopo,

Roy

Roy, I saw the movie, of course . It was broadcasted on TV several time here. It was dubbed into italian and released in cinemas at the time, but it is occasionally rebroadcast on TV. The title here was "12 metri d'amore" (12 meter of love) . I am attaching one of the italian movie poster.


Next week I should take the car home, there are still some problems with the carburetion with the engine warm (here it's doing temperatures close to 40 celsius, 100 fahrenheit). I bought a carburettor overhaul kit but it seems that some of the adjustment screws are nailed.


Ciao


Roberto

[Sunnybob]

Hi, I found this on ebay.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/37375537608...3Avlp_homepage


What is it? What is governor purpose? Thank you so much.

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

When you say "but it seems that some of the adjustment screws are nailed." I am not sure what you are referring to.

The only adjustments to the carburetor are:

1. changing out the jets, for altitude
2. idle jets (screw them in or out to get the proper mixture)
3. setting the level of the float (to keep the car from running either too lean or too rich)

From your prior picture, you have the correct carburetor for you Merc-O-Matic 1953, Mercury in the car now, (9510 M LIST 882-1)

What symptoms are you experiencing? I would guess that since your temp is 100 degrees F, you might be getting a bit of vapor lock. Here that is a reality, due to the cheap gas we have to use, but I would expect that would not be an issue for you (not sure).

If you take the car out early in the morning, do you have the same issues?

I would guess, that once your carburetor has been completely dissembled, thoroughly cleaned and reassembled with a new kid, many, if not all of the issue will have been corrected.

As to the ebay carburetor, that appears to be for a Lincoln and would not work on your car.I have no experience with that carburetor but the manual says:

"The Holley Centri-Vac Governor on the Model 1901-FFG truck carburetor has been designed ans engineered as an integral part of the carburetor. The unit accurately controls engine speed without excessive over-run or surging regardless of variations in the load on the engine."

An issue with trucks but not so much for cars.

Do you have an electric fuel pump on your car in addition to the manual pump?

I did notice form the picture that you vacuum on the rear of the carburetor was not hooked up. Was that just for the picture?

Later,

Roy


Roberto,

Quando dici "ma sembra che alcune delle viti di regolazione siano inchiodate." non sono sicuro di cosa ti riferisci.

Le uniche regolazioni al carburatore sono:

1. Cambiare i getti, per l'altitudine
2. getti inattivi (avvitali dentro o fuori per ottenere la miscela corretta)
3. Impostazione del livello del galleggiante (per impedire all'auto di correre troppo magra o troppo ricca)

Dalla tua immagine precedente, hai il carburatore corretto per te Merc-O-Matic 1953, Mercurio nell'auto Now, (9510 M Elenco 882-1)

Quali sintomi stai vivendo? Immagino che poiché la tua temperatura è di 100 gradi F, potresti ricevere un po 'di blocco vapore. Qui è una realtÃwww.jalopyjournal.net, a causa del gas economico che dobbiamo usare, ma mi aspetto che non sarebbe un problema per te (non sono sicuro).


Se tiri fuori la macchina la mattina presto, hai gli stessi problemi?

Immagino che una volta che il tuo carburatore è stato completamente dissembrato, accuratamente pulito e riassemblato con un nuovo bambino, molti, se non tutto il problema, sarÃwww.jalopyjournal.net stato corretto.

Per quanto riguarda il carburatore eBay, questo sembra essere per un Lincoln e non funzionerebbe sulla tua auto. Non ho esperienza con quel carburatore ma il manuale dice:

"Il governatore di Holley Centri-VAC sul carburatore del camion del modello 1901-FFG è stato progettato e ingegnerizzato come parte integrante del carburatore. L'unitÃwww.jalopyjournal.net controlla accuratamente la velocitÃwww.jalopyjournal.net del motore senza eccessivi o in aumento indipendentemente dalle variazioni del carico sul motore . "

Un problema con i camion ma non tanto per le auto.

Hai una pompa elettrica sul carburante sulla tua auto oltre alla pompa manuale?

Ho notato la foto che il vuoto sul retro del carburatore non è stato collegato. Era solo per la foto?

Dopo,

[Sunnybob]

Hi Roy,


I just made my first road test. Cars drives quite well. There are few items to check.



1) Brakes. They are new but seems absolutely underpowered. Massimo says
they shoud become better later. Hope so. Everything, except drums is new.


2) Probably the mixture is too lean. Spark plugs are white and when driving sometimes the engine stops. It happens at idle speed. If I stopped to make a turn sometimes the engine die.. On restarting the engine the car starts straight away but you have to accelerate (pump gas) so it appears to be lean. Massimo says idle jet screw are locked .. that's what I meant.


The rear vacuum is closed. Just a tube with a cap. What is it for?

I have a 6v electric pump in the back and is original fuel pump in the hood. Working together.


Thank you

Ciao


Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

When is Massimo scheduled to clean and rebuild the carburetor? Hopefully, when he soaks the carburetor to clean it, the idle screws will break loose. That make me think the passage ways in the carburetor are totally clogged or corroded. From your description, it sounds that you are running lean.

Later,

Roy


Roberto,

Quando è programmato Massimo per pulire e ricostruire il carburatore? Spero che quando immergi il carburatore per pulirlo, le viti inattive si libereranno. Questo mi fa pensare che i modi di passaggio nel carburatore siano totalmente intasati o corrosi. Dalla tua descrizione, sembra che stai correndo magro.

Dopo,

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Good question Roy, I don't have the answer yet :-(

[Merc Cruzer]

If you get a chance, could you post a picture of a spark plug? I want to see just how white it is.


Se ne hai una possibilità, potresti pubblicare una foto di una candela? Voglio vedere quanto sia bianco.

[Sunnybob]

Hi Roy, i would ask to Massimo.. to be honest the brakes worry more than the tune up... ��
Ciao
Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

Ciao, sounds like they haven't set in yet. Normal y, I would recommend that the brake shoes be arched to match the drums, but I am not sure that is available to you. I am probably going to get a ton of grief for this but, but find an empty road and ride the brakes, to take the surface off the new shoes. Make numerous hard stops and see if the brakes don't feel better afterwards.

If the pedal is soft that is a different matter.

If you really want good brakes search the web and find an original Tredel-Vac power assist brakes, offed as original equipment from the factory. I have one on my car ans it will stop on a dime and give you 8 cents change! You can still buy the rebuild kits for them. That port on the back of the carburetor, you were asking about previously, will power them. The vacuum tank is mounted under the drivers floor, to the inside of the frame.

http://ford-mel-engine.com/viewtopic.php?t=149

Roy


Roberto,

Ciao, sembra che non abbiano ancora iniziato. Normale Y, consiglierei che le scarpe dei freni siano inarcate per abbinare la batteria, ma non sono sicuro che sia disponibile per te. Probabilmente avrò un sacco di dolore per questo, ma, ma trovo una strada vuota e cavalcherò i freni, per togliersi la superficie dalle nuove scarpe. Fai numerose fermate difficili e vedi se i freni non si sentono meglio in seguito.

Se il pedale è morbido, è una questione diversa.

Se vuoi davvero buoni freni per cercare sul Web e trovare un originale Tredel-Vac Power Assist Freen, offused come apparecchiatura originale della fabbrica. Ne ho uno sulla mia macchina e si fermerà su un centesimo e ti darà un cambio di 8 centesimi! Puoi ancora acquistare i kit di ricostruzione per loro. Quel porto sul retro del carburatore, stavi chiedendo in precedenza, li alimenterà. Il serbatoio del vuoto è montato sotto il pavimento dei conducenti, all'interno del telaio.

Alcune mie foto quando l'ho ricostruito.

http://ford-mel-engine.com/viewtopic.php?t=149

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Hi Roy,
here the pic of a spark plug you asked
thank you so much


Ciao


Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

Honestly, your plug doesn't look that bad. It looks clean. I am attaching a few pictures of one of my plugs. How much have you driven since these plugs were installed? City or highway? What brand and number are your plugs. I realize everyone has their own preferences.

Later,

Roy


Roberto,

Onestamente, la tua spina non sembra così male. Sembra pulito. Allego alcune foto di una delle mie spine. Quanto hai guidato da quando sono state installate queste spine? Città o autostrada? Quale marchio e numero sono i tuoi tappi. Mi rendo conto che ognuno ha le proprie preferenze.

Dopo,

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Hi Roy, my spark plugs are champion 854 brand new. I had a 1958 AJS (british bike) some years ago and it hated NGK. I had the opposite problem: always too rich mixture and black spark plugs. In my opinion NGK are more sensitive to modern fuel in old engines. Anyway we have the same colour ;-) but I presume they shoud be a little more nut colour



My car has only been driven a few miles and in mostly urban settings, with no air filter. No freeways.


Ciao
Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

I think you need to put at least 25 miles on the car, a highway speeds, then come home and pull the plug to see what it looks like, as that will give you a better reading of the true plug condition. Like I said, everyone has their own preference of plugs.

Last we spoke, you were concerned about the brakes, has that improved any?

My latest project was tracking down a correct piece of accelerator/kickdown linkage for my car. When I got it, 13 years ago, it had a generic piece of linkage on it and I was never able to find the correct one. Well you live with it for years and then the day comes, that it is time to begin the search. I placed adds on the Ford Barn. and Facebook, to no avail. I sent numerous e-mails to local salvage yards, still nothing.

When we were restoring my wifes 1970 Cougar XR-7, we had a favorite salvage yard for parts. They used to be open 6 days a week, but now it seems the yards are only open on Saturdays. I found out they were open on Satureday from 8:00 until 3:00. So last Saturday, I made the trip up to the yard, about an hour away. Naturally the 53' Merc's were in the far corner of the yard. When I got to the corner, the weeds were high and they had 3, 53' Merc's still in the yard. None of them still had the flathead engines in them so I proceeded to go through the interiors and trunks. When I opened the drivers door on one of them, there was an incorrect air cleaner for the car, sitting on the front seat. I pushed it off and believe it or not, there was a complete linkage system for a 1953 Mercury with an Merc-O-Matic (the standard transmission linkages are not the same.) I paid for the linkage ($50) and came home and cleaned it up and took the correct piece off of it and put it on the car. The incorrect piece is now on the linkage system, for storage.

I am looking forward to hearing of you getting to dive yours with the top down on a nice day in Northerner, Italy. Shots of the Alps in the background would be beautiful. As you could guess, I am partial to mountains.

Later,

Roy


Roberto,

Penso che tu debba mettere almeno 25 miglia sulla macchina, una velocità autostradale, quindi tornare a casa e tirare la spina per vedere come appare, in quanto ti darà una lettura migliore della vera condizione di spina. Come ho detto, ognuno ha la propria preferenza di spine.

L'ultima volta abbiamo parlato, eri preoccupato per i freni, ne ha migliorato?

Il mio ultimo progetto è stato rintracciare un corretto pezzo di collegamento acceleratore/kickdown per la mia auto. Quando l'ho preso, 13 anni fa, aveva un pezzo di collegamento generico su di esso e non sono mai stato in grado di trovare quello corretto. Beh, vivi con esso per anni e poi arriva il giorno in cui è tempo di iniziare la ricerca. Ho piazzato aggiungi al fienile Ford. e Facebook, inutilmente. Ho inviato numerose e-mail ai cantieri di salvataggio locali, ancora niente.

Quando stavamo ripristinando le mie wife 1970 Cougar XR-7, avevamo un cantiere di salvataggio preferito per le parti. Erano aperti 6 giorni alla settimana, ma ora sembra che i cantieri siano aperti solo il sabato. Ho scoperto che erano aperti su Saturday dalle 8:00 alle 3:00. Quindi sabato scorso, ho fatto il viaggio fino al cortile, a circa un'ora di distanza. Naturalmente i 53 'Merc erano nell'angolo lontano del cortile. Quando arrivai all'angolo, le erbacce erano alte e avevano ancora 3, 53 'Merc nel cortile. Nessuno di loro aveva ancora i motori a testa piatta, quindi ho continuato a passare attraverso gli interni e i tronchi. Quando ho aperto la porta del conducente su uno di loro, c'era un detergente per aria errata per l'auto, seduto sul sedile anteriore. L'ho spinto fuori e ci crediate o no, c'era un sistema di collegamento completo per un mercurio del 1953 con un merc-o-matico (i collegamenti a trasmissione standard non sono gli stessi.) Ho pagato per il collegamento ($ 50) e sono tornato a casa e sono tornato a casa Lo ha pulito e ha toccato il pezzo corretto e metterlo sulla macchina. Il pezzo errato è ora sul sistema di collegamento, per la conservazione.

Non vedo l'ora di sapere che tu possa immergerti con la parte superiore in una bella giornata a Northerner, in Italia. I colpi delle Alpi sullo sfondo sarebbero belli. Come puoi immaginare, sono parziale alle montagne.

Dopo,

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Roy,

Saturday i will take the Mercury at home as I need to drive it more than few miles to adjust and improve the brakes, as you said. And I'll see if any other part of the car is going to go on vacation

What about your top? Did you understand why it goes slower?

I enjoyed your story about the linkage. Never stop searching... our holy grail can be hiding in the most unexpected place! I have been to the USA several times and have always enjoyed looking for parts in junkyards. Too bad the world is changing fast and soon these places will disappear. Here in Italy it has become almost impossible to keep wrecked cars, the law requires the immediate demolition of vehicles. It must be said that obviously there have never been wreckers here with American cars, which are too rare.

By the way I would ask you for a spare part that I see on the car in the photo. I can see that it has complete taillights which look okay (chrome looks decent). Would it be possible to know how much they cost?

Not sure when I can make a trip to the mountains.. They are quite close and in less than 1 hour I can be in Lugano, Switzerland. I have several friends there that are american cars nuts...maybe next month if the brakes will improve enough



Ciao



Roberto

[Merc Cruzer]

Roberto,

I looked back at the picture you are referring to and the drivers side light has a big dent in it, not to mention, both of the lights are missing their frames and lenses. As I guess you have too, I looked on e-bay the prices are ridiculous and out right gouging. Let me keep an eye out for you, and see what I run across during my searches.

Later,

Roy



Roberto,

Ho guardato indietro all'immagine a cui ti riferisci e la luce laterale dei conducenti ha una grande ammaccatura, per non parlare del fatto che entrambe le luci mancano i loro telai e lenti. Come immagino che tu abbia anche tu, ho guardato su e-bay i prezzi sono ridicoli e si estendono. Lasciami tenere d'occhio per te e vedere cosa ho incontrato durante le mie ricerche.

Dopo,

Roy

[Sunnybob]

Hi Roy,
yes I can see the dent in the picture. But the chrome looks nice. On ebay they either sell for scrap or, if they are decent, they have mind-boggling prices.
No hurry .. If you find something give me a shout ;-)
Thank you.
Ciao
Roberto

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Sunnybob

Hi Roy,
yes I can see the dent in the picture. But the chrome looks nice. On ebay they either sell for scrap or, if they are decent, they have mind-boggling prices.
No hurry .. If you find something give me a shout ;-)
Thank you.
Ciao
Roberto