Brass model “T”s

[Model A Ron]

1916 was the last year but I have a 1915 and love it. Just put on a new set of Universal Whites over the winter and they really make a brass T Pop. I also have a 24 Coupe that I removed the package shelf on and the legroom is amazing.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Model A Ron

1916 was the last year but I have a 1915 and love it. Just put on a new set of Universal Whites over the winter and they really make a brass T Pop. I also have a 24 Coupe that I removed the package shelf on and the legroom is amazing.

[1940 Convert]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Roughly 6 brass-era counting the ones that are inoperable at the moment. I did not show pix of a faux 1910 Tourabout that I am gathering pieces for, the LD Maxwell that is about to receive its first restoration, and an unidentified friction drive, chain drive vehicle that I 'inherited'.

Then, there are the non brass-era cars such as a few more Ts and a couple of As. Finally, add in a mix of 'family cars' such as '29 Model-A Phaeton that my great, great Aunt & Uncle purchased new on their honeymoon, a '49 Chrysler Windsor that my late FiL 'courted' my MiL in, a '54 Hudson Hornet that my grandpa purchased new, a 1979 Chevrolet M/C that was the last car my grandmother had, ...and as you can see I have too many old cars.

That is a bunch. I grew up around a large collection of 30's and later. My Maxwell was our only one older than 1928. It was just overwhelming to try to keep up. It's now down to just three which at times still seems to be a bit much to care for.

[1940 Convert]

Originally Posted by Model A Ron

1916 was the last year but I have a 1915 and love it. Just put on a new set of Universal Whites over the winter and they really make a brass T Pop. I also have a 24 Coupe that I removed the package shelf on and the legroom is amazing.

I like the looks of the white tires but they seem like they would be hard to keep white. On another board they have talked about sometimes they turn a little brownish with age.

[Model A Ron]

Originally Posted by 1940 Convert

I like the looks of the white tires but they seem like they would be hard to keep white. On another board they have talked about sometimes they turn a little brownish with age.

You do need to clean the tires like white walls but its worth the extra 15 minutes when washing the car when needed. As for turning brown that was a real thing 5 or so years back but not today.

[1940 Convert]

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Originally Posted by Model A Ron

You do need to clean the tires like white walls but its worth the extra 15 minutes when washing the car when needed. As for turning brown that was a real thing 5 or so years back but not today.

Was that a specific brand that turns brown?

[Model A Ron]

Originally Posted by 1940 Convert

Was that a specific brand that turns brown?

It was all white tires as they all come from the same plant in Vietnam regardless of brand. If I recall it was a release agent they were using on the molds. I got a set of Universal Whites from Coker at Christmas with free shipping and 10% off.....I think they were just under 200 each. They do not last as long as the black tires but I think most of us have tires age out before we run the threads off. Its a personnel choice however to me the white tires make the car look so much better that its worth it.

[rotorwrench]

The added carbon black was what made the natural rubber more durable. The white walls were a band of natural rubber added in during the wrapping process. On an all white tire, the whole carcass is made from natural rubber but it usually has some carbon black mixed in. It was enough to make the a sort of grayish white. When these tires were first made, automobile and aircraft tires were a relatively new invention. The wheel rims to take them were too. In less than a century, tires went from natural rubber and reinforcing materials to the more modern steel belted radials tires that have a lot more syntheyic rubber mixed in.

A lot of different materials are used now but natural latex rubber is still a part of the mix along with nylon and rayon synthetic fibers for reinforcement and more steel wire for the rim beads. Sulfur and zinc oxide are still used in the vulcanizing process. The reproduction tires are a lot stronger for the modern synthetics mixed in there for strength of the carcass and durability completed tire. The old originals didn't last nearly as well and that's why most folks carried their own patch kits and Ford included tire pumps & spoons as part of the tool set. Folks only carried a spare for the times a patch kit would no longer repair a tire or when they didn't want to get as dirty.

[art ebeling]

I have had the 11 out and driven ten miles two days in a row. Art

[1940 Convert]

That looks like a nice area to take a drive. I pretty much stopped driving mine without an escort a few years ago. Not really because of fear of it breaking. I've had several people cut me off and I guess they assume it has good brakes. The last few times I drove it on the street was in Springfield IL for the Secretary of State Show last fall. Then in Champaign IL for a car show but I had an escort.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by art ebeling

I have had the 11 out and driven ten miles two days in a row. Art

[Model A Ron]

Originally Posted by 1940 Convert

That looks like a nice area to take a drive. I pretty much stopped driving mine without an escort a few years ago. Not really because of fear of it breaking. I've had several people cut me off and I guess they assume it has good brakes. The last few times I drove it on the street was in Springfield IL for the Secretary of State Show last fall. Then in Champaign IL for a car show but I had an escort.

Have you considered adding brakes to it? My 15 Touring came to me with disk brakes and they stop amazing. Most people would never know but they do not look period correct. For my 24 Coupe I got a set of Rocky Mountain drum brakes that do look very period correct. People say they do not wok as good in rain and reverse but to me they are fine.

[1940 Convert]

I never really considered it. It has a pretty faithful to stock restoration. It also doesn't have brake lights or turn signals.

[Model A Ron]

Originally Posted by 1940 Convert

I never really considered it. It has a pretty faithful to stock restoration. It also doesn't have brake lights or turn signals.

You may want to look at some photos of the Rocky Mountain brakes. They are bolt on and look period correct. Trust me brakes on a T are a game changer. To me the stopping is almost as good as on a Model A.

[1940 Convert]

I've heard of them but never seen a T up close with them on it. I'll have to look into them further.

[29spcoupe]

Originally Posted by Model A Ron

You may want to look at some photos of the Rocky Mountain brakes. They are bolt on and look period correct. Trust me brakes on a T are a game changer. To me the stopping is almost as good as on a Model A.

Rocky Mountains are a must on a Model T. If anything between the engine and the rear wheels breaks, you will have no brakes at all!!!

[1940 Convert]

My Maxwell is set up more like a modern system with expanding drum brakes. Then it also has outside clamping on the same drum. All on rear and nothing on front.

[Model A Ron]

My 1915 Touring has rear disk brakes and they are better but look to modern. If you plan on doing a lot of driving disks are the best you can get. I have no complaints on the stopping ability.

[1940 Convert]

I looked at a set of Rocky Mountain brakes and they look very similar to my factory brakes. I've been thinking of trying to clean the brake lining to see if that helps. It's important to me to keep it looking stock. I don't think I'll ever drive it a lot. Usually I park the enclosed trailer within a block or two of where it will be displayed. I've done a couple of weddings and I think 10 miles in the same day is about the farthest I've ever driven it.

[Model A Ron]

I think I put on about 1500 miles last year and I thought that was very little.....I guess if you never drive it who needs brakes lol