Where to get 6 volt positive ground elecronic flasher?

[Old Henry]

My big old hound dog nose is usually pretty good at sniffing this stuff out but it seems plugged up with something right now and I haven't found one of these. Bought one that was advertised as 6 volt that turned out to be 12 volt. So, where do I get me one? The standard 535 thermal flasher flashes too fast for me.

[Old Henry]

How about this Honda 6 volt two prong (no ground so polarity wouldn't matter?) electronic? Any reason it wouldn't work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120859565413

[4dFord/SC]

I believe these folks carry them to use on Amish horse-drawn vehicles:
Witmer Coach Shop
1070 W Main St
New Holland, PA 17557
(717) 656-3411

[Gumpy]

napa auto parts just say ya own a 47 pickup

[Bob NH]

Old Henry, go to NAPA and ask for 6V flasher # 535 Its a 6V three prong and works great for me in the 40

[Old Henry]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Bob NH

Old Henry, go to NAPA and ask for 6V flasher # 535 Its a 6V three prong and works great for me in the 40

Originally Posted by Gumpy

napa auto parts just say ya own a 47 pickup

Please note: Original post said I'm already using the 535 thermal flasher which I got from NAPA it just flashes too fast, maybe 'cause it's only flashing one bulb. That's why I'm looking for an electronic one.

[Rich Overton]

I think you hit the nail on the head! If your only flashing one bulb the 535 ( which I use on my '48 ) will flash very rapidly. Older Guys like me used it as a warning back when, that one bulb was burned out still works today.

Rich O.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Rich Overton

I think you hit the nail on the head! If your only flashing one bulb the 535 ( which I use on my '48 ) will flash very rapidly. Older Guys like me used it as a warning back when, that one bulb was burned out still works today.

Rich O.

I actually added a 1 ohm resistor (same load as a bulb) and buzzer in each circuit that should have slowed the blinking down but didn't.

[Old Henry]

Just received a PM asking why I was only blinking one bulb. Here's why.

These are my turn signals:



One bulb in each fixture that sticks in the back window with the little suction cups and are switched by the little switch that clamps under the dash board. Was not made to blink originally, just turn on to indicate turn indication. That's why I'm blinking only one bulb. Not conventional system that blinks any original lights.

[Marv]

Can't you wire in a socket and bulb in the wiring harness on each side in the trunk or whatever,just so you have 2 bulbs flashing. You dont need to see them, you just need the resistance. Marv

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Marv

Can't you wire in a socket and bulb in the wiring harness on each side in the trunk or whatever,just so you have 2 bulbs flashing. You dont need to see them, you just need the resistance. Marv

Adding the 1 ohm resistor in the circuit was the same thing. If you check the ohms of the bulbs in your turn signal lights, that's it. Didn't help.

[Jack E/NJ]

Old Henry>>>I actually added a 1 ohm resistor (same load as a bulb)>>>

Bulb filament resistance is a lot higher when lit than measured cold. So instead of a 1 ohm resistor, add another bulb in parallel to the circuit and see if the flasher slows down. Then do something like Marv suggested earlier.

Jack E/NJ

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Old Henry>>>I actually added a 1 ohm resistor (same load as a bulb)>>>

Bulb filament resistance is a lot higher when lit than measured cold. So instead of a 1 ohm resistor, add another bulb in parallel to the circuit and see if the flasher slows down. Then do something like Marv suggested earlier.

Jack E/NJ

I will give it a try and report how it went. I'd thought of that when I first installed the system but didn't want a bulb just blinking somewhere under the dash board.

[Mart]

The bulb in the rear unit needs to be 21Watt. The "dummy" bulb also needs to be 21Watt. Flasher units are designed to run with a load of 2 x 21watts, and sometines a 4 or 5Watt side marker bulb. If the bulb in the rear unit is less than 21Watt and you add a 21Watt bulb, you might still be flashing fast.
Not sure if Watts is the system you use in the USA, but it's what we use over here.
It's what the brake filament is in a dual filament bulb, the rear light is 5W.

Mart.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Mart

The bulb in the rear unit needs to be 21Watt. The "dummy" bulb also needs to be 21Watt. Flasher units are designed to run with a load of 2 x 21watts, and sometines a 4 or 5Watt side marker bulb. If the bulb in the rear unit is less than 21Watt and you add a 21Watt bulb, you might still be flashing fast.
Not sure if Watts is the system you use in the USA, but it's what we use over here.
It's what the brake filament is in a dual filament bulb, the rear light is 5W.

Mart.

The aircraft halogen bulb I've put in is marked 19 cp which I think is candle power. The original bulb was only 1.5 cp and pretty dim. No watts marked on either bulb. Don't know how cp corresponds with watts.

[4dFord/SC]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I will give it a try and report how it went. I'd thought of that when I first installed the system but didn't want a bulb just blinking somewhere under the dash board.

Just paint it black.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Don't know how cp corresponds with watts.

Just found this conversion table someone made up for watts and candle power although others say there is no direct conversion because different bulbs give different levels of light using the same watts. Anyway, here it is:

CP Watts Milliwatts Milliamps

1.5 = .028 = 28 = 2.33
3.0 = .056 = 56 = 4.66
6.0 = .113 = 113 = 9.42

If that chart is accurate, my 19 cp halogen bulbs only use .35 watts a piece. I'd have to hook up 60 of them to get 21 watts! And 120 to equal two 21 watt bulbs! Looks like I better stick with the electronic flasher that is not dependent on load to work.

[Jack E/NJ]

4dFord/SC>>>Just paint it black. >>>

Or just call it another turn signal indicator light....a bright one.

Henry, if your 1.5cp bulb was about 1 ohm cold, it was probably about 2 ohms lit. Which means it is an 18 watt bulb, about the same as Mart suggested was needed.

Jack E/NJ

[Bob NH]

Well, after looking at that setup in the pictures, I'd have to say it's a pretty neat apparatus,assembly,mechanism,devise for flashing people with lights !

[Old Henry]

Here's what I'm dealing with:
The left bulb came from Mac's in a package marked 21 cp, no watts. The middle one is the 1.5 cp that came with the fixtures. The right on is the aircraft halogen bulb that's rated at 19 cp.



So, maybe the itty bitty halogen actually draws the same as the big bulb. It certainly is as bright. Maybe I will just try wiring another of the big bulb on the left into the circuit and see what happens.

[Jack E/NJ]

The middle one looks like a sub-watt indicator lamp. I think you're right about the halogen drawing as much as or even more than the big bulb. Also, I seem to recall that the old thermal flashers flashed faster, not slower, when trailer lights were added to the circuit.

Jack E/NJ

[BillM]

Maybe I will just try wiring another of the big bulb on the left into the circuit and see what happens.

Try it both in series and parallel. If your flasher is a thermal type I believe you will find that two bulbs in parallel will flash faster: less resistance. Two bulbs in series should flash slower.

[Jack E/NJ]

Yeah, Bill, good idea. I wonder if maybe the bulb somehow drew more current than the flasher can was designed for. Henry, were you originally trying to flash the halogen bulb? It may be drawing too much current.

Jack E/NJ

[FlatheadTed]

I use a 12 flasher on 6 volt but wired into each side a std 12volt tail light bolb to get it to work .it flashes under the dash

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Yeah, Bill, good idea. I wonder if maybe the bulb somehow drew more current than the flasher can was designed for. Henry, were you originally trying to flash the halogen bulb? It may be drawing too much current.

Jack E/NJ

I started just trying to flash the 1.5 cp bulb alone. It wouldn't even flash, not enough load. So, I added the 1 ohm resistor parallel with the bulb which added more load, less resistance and it flashed but too fast. I then added a buzzer in parallel with the bulb and resistor so I wouldn't leave it on. No change in speed. I then installed the halogen bulbs. No change. I then cut out the resistor but left the buzzer. No change. I haven't tried a second bulb in parallel with the one bulb and probably won't until I try the Honda 6 volt two prong electronic flasher I have coming. Wiring anything in series with the bulb would just dim the bulb, decrease the load, and increase the resistence so I wouldn't do that.

[Old Henry]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Well, you got me so curious that I had to try it. I hooked both halogen bulbs together to blink together. No change in speed. Still 170 fpm (flashes per minute) whereas the usual blinkers flash 60 -90 fpm. Guess I'll hope the Honda flasher works.

Thanks for all of your ideas. It's amazing the amount of help available on this forum for every problem, large or small. I didn't think I'd get any response to this trivial question.

Thanks again.

[Jack E/NJ]

Old Henry>>>The standard 535 thermal flasher flashes too fast for me.>>>


With all the combinations you've tried with no change in the flash rate, Henry, I'm now curious about what's actually inside this 535 can. If I had an alleged thermal flasher that acted like that, I'd hafta pry the can's eartabs back, pull it off and see what's mounted on the board. Aren't you curious too? 8^)

Jack E/NJ

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Old Henry>>>The standard 535 thermal flasher flashes too fast for me.>>>


With all the combinations you've tried with no change in the flash rate, Henry, I'm now curious about what's actually inside this 535 can. If I had an alleged thermal flasher that acted like that, I'd hafta pry the can's eartabs back, pull it off and see what's mounted on the board. Aren't you curious too? 8^)

Jack E/NJ

Yes. I am now suspicious about the thermal flasher that I have. I going now down to NAPA to get another one to try. Might just be the flasher is bad. That would be an easy fix.

[Old Henry]

Jack E/NJ wins the prize.

Once again:

"In problem solving, more often than not, the most obvious answer tends to be the correct one."

So it was with this problem. Bought a new 6 volt thermal flasher just like the one I was already using it worked just like it is supposed to! No need for any of the other "creative" solutions we all came up with nor the 6 volt electronic flasher that's on its way.

Reminds me of the time I spent two hours at night on the side of the road testing everything under the hood to try to figure out why my engine died and wouldn't start again until I finally realized that it was out of gas!

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Jack E/NJ wins the prize.

Once again:

"In problem solving, more often than not, the most obvious answer tends to be the correct one."

So it was with this problem. Bought a new 6 volt thermal flasher just like the one I was already using it worked just like it is supposed to! No need for any of the other "creative" solutions we all came up with nor the 6 volt electronic flasher that's on its way.

Reminds me of the time I spent two hours at night on the side of the road testing everything under the hood to try to figure out why my engine died and wouldn't start again until I finally realized that it was out of gas!

There are POS and NEG 535 flashers and not marked what polarity they are. I suspect you had the wrong polarity in originally and just by luck you got the right polarity. I am into this on a 54 corvette right now. G.M.

[54vicky]

Originally Posted by G.M.

There are POS and NEG 535 flashers and not marked what polarity they are. I suspect you had the wrong polarity in originally and just by luck you got the right polarity. I am into this on a 54 corvette right now. G.M.

he solved it in 2012 first heard of 535 -+ carry on

[big job]

Welcome to this day and age. A late pickup we towed in, fuel pump. You have to take the body off to get at it. THREE pumps from Napa, Junk, finally the forth one worked. I can not blame Napa but thats where they get things, cause here, we build low cost housing and not US factory's no more. And we all know the story with 'condensers and points made in some grass shack' across the pond. And these in tank pumps are big bucks: end of rant...

[peewee2you]

Old Henry, I haven't been on for quite awhile but found your post, on the 6v relay issue, someone mentioned the Napa #535 which is 3 prong but I saw that it is a 12v, and i remember using a reducer that changes 12v to 6v for a 6v radio in my vw years ago Here is the item i'm talking about on ebay for $9.99
maybe this would work with the napa flasher for you on your 47.

the ebay item # 392475305555

Painless Wiring 40027 Voltage Reducer 12 V to 6 V 4 Amp Maximum Load Each

all this being said i'm not a great electical guy.. just my disclaimer.

go to ebay find advance tab click on it put in item # and hit enter it will come up. here is what it looks like http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL175.../414376461.jpg

you might have resolved the issue already, but maybe future reference, good to see u still on here.