Perforated Trunk Floor - Master Series Silver

[Stephenorf]

So I removed the fuel tank from my 1959 Mercury Monterey to have it reconditioned. While it was out I thought I'd do a little cleanup on the trunk floor.

Exidently the infamous PO did some "repairs" to the trunk floor, which might have worsened the situation. As far as I can tell, the PO used some sort of rust converter, and then maybe an undercoating substance on top. The result was rust "bubbles" on the trunk floor. While the tank was out I decided to see what was going on with the rust. I used an angle grinder and a wire wheel (a wire cup actually) and did my best to clean the trunk floor and use the wire brush to dislodge and sweep away as much jusk as I could from the floor. After a couple passes this is what I have left.













I have used this stuff called Master Series Silver before (recenty ona pole barn to treat the rusty poles), but not on a car (well, I did test a spot on a rusted out outer rocker just to see how it would look). Anyway, its supposed to fill in 'pin holes' and be realy good at coating rusty metal surfaces locking out rust. I called Master Series and talked to Pat, and explained that the perforations were bigger than 'pin holes'. He said use a product called Master Series Silver Supreme, which is a lot thicker and he said shuld fill in the small holes nicely. Once cured, the Master Series stuff is supposed to be hard as a rock, can be painted over, and is impervious moisture and most chemicals.

He also said I need to clean the bottom of the trunk floor and coat both sides of the metal. I'm pretty sure if I wire brush from the bottom I'm going to find additional perforated metal (ok, no big deal I guess), and probably make the existing perforations a little larger (hmm...).

They do not make replacement trunk floors, so buying a new trunk floor is probably not going to happen. I'm pretty sure patchng it is a no-go based on the heavy pitting I can see in some areas. So, the Master Series seems to be a reasonable altrnative.

Has anyone here used the Master Series product?

I wasn't looking to 'restore' this car just yet. So I really don't want a big project. But to that end, any other creative/constructive sugestions other than Master Series for a short term/long term solution?

Thanks in advance.

[Daves55Sedan]

I think you will need to get a roll of masking tape and tape over the holes on the underside prior to painting the Master silver stuff.
Rather than that, I would mix up small portions of fiberglass epoxy and trowel the epoxy into the pitted panels. Let set up overnight and sand smooth the next day (also using the tape underneath). It would allow a smooth finish and be almost as durable as the original steel panel. When you get ready for restoration, you wouldn't need to do much more work back there but primer and overcoat.
I've never seen a trunk floor that bad. Makes you wonder if they left the trunk lid open to rain and snow for 20 or 30 years.
Check your trunk lid gasket for proper fitting and for leaks and get a new gasket of needed to keep water out.

[KULTULZ]

!!! !!!

You can't seal or encapsulate rust. It is just like cancer, it has to be cut out. The rust will keep on eating.

I would be afraid to throw an over-nite bag in there.

My suggestion is to try and find a SOUTHWEST salvage yard that specializes in old cars and see what a cut-out with shipping will cost.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

My suggestion is to try and find a SOUTHWEST salvage yard that specializes in old cars and see what a cut-out with shipping will cost.

Yeah, I agree, for long term fix replacing the compromosed metal would be best. Any idea where I might find a good trink floor. It doesn't exactly have to match, as long as it is close. I think any 1955-1962 (or so) full sized Mercury or Ford trunk floor should be fairly close and could be cut, trimmed or otherwise modified to fit?

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

I think you will need to get a roll of masking tape and tape over the holes on the underside prior to painting the Master silver stuff.
Rather than that, I would mix up small portions of fiberglass epoxy and trowel the epoxy into the pitted panels. Let set up overnight and sand smooth the next day (also using the tape underneath). It would allow a smooth finish and be almost as durable as the original steel panel. When you get ready for restoration, you wouldn't need to do much more work back there but primer and overcoat.
I've never seen a trunk floor that bad. Makes you wonder if they left the trunk lid open to rain and snow for 20 or 30 years.
Check your trunk lid gasket for proper fitting and for leaks and get a new gasket of needed to keep water out.

I was thinking of useing the Master Series Silver to encapsulate the rust, and then go over it with fiberglass reinfornced body filler, or maybe as you suggest some fiberglass resin. A little sanding and the trunk floor will look good as new (or so).

[Stephenorf]

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Originally Posted by KULTULZ

!!! !!!

You can't seal or encapsulate rust. It is just like cancer, it has to be cut out. The rust will keep on eating.

The POR15 and this Master Series Silver seem to do just that. The stuff converts the rust to inert matter, and then seals the surface from any himidity or water so that the rust is stopped, without having to do the surgery to remove the affected metal. Seems like alot of people are saying it works.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

I think you will need to get a roll of masking
I've never seen a trunk floor that bad. Makes you wonder if they left the trunk lid open to rain and snow for 20 or 30 years.
Check your trunk lid gasket for proper fitting and for leaks and get a new gasket of needed to keep water out.

Yeah, its pretty bad. If I had to guess, I bet the rear window gasket leaks and water ends up in the trunk whenever it rains. I'll have to do some investigation to the source of the water.

[miker98038]

I’ve used POR15, but only on smaller areas. Similar products will probably help, but they’re going to be a stop gap. I hope the tank isn’t hanging off that.

I know K won’t like it, but I’d go to the local wrecker and look for any large floor panel that might be adaptable. If the edges are good you might be able to trim it out and replace it with something close. The oem floor mat will hide a lot and it wouldn’t be an irreversible fix. But safe in the long run.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by miker98038

I’ve used POR15, but only on smaller areas. Similar products will probably help, but they’re going to be a stop gap. I hope the tank isn’t hanging off that.

I know K won’t like it, but I’d go to the local wrecker and look for any large floor panel that might be adaptable. If the edges are good you might be able to trim it out and replace it with something close. The oem floor mat will hide a lot and it wouldn’t be an irreversible fix. But safe in the long run.

Hi, thanks. The fuel tank is actually suspended from straps that run undereath, so the trunk floor doesn't acutaually hold the weight of the tank. That said, althogh it looks pretty bad in the picks, the trunk floor is actually quite sturdy (in my opinion). From underneath the car, the trunk floor looks ok until I wire brushed it from the inside. All the rust is from water soaking into the trunk mat and and then staying wet against in the trunk with no air circulating to help evaoporate.

[miker98038]

If it’s structurally ok, I’d go with Dave’s idea above. Something to stabilize the rust, and ‘ ‘glass to finish. Remember to wear a proper mask/respirator.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Stephenorf

Yeah, its pretty bad. If I had to guess, I bet the rear window gasket leaks and water ends up in the trunk whenever it rains. I'll have to do some investigation to the source of the water.

What you need to do is get into the trunk, close the deck lid, and have the wifey-poo run a garden hose over the rear glass and gasket to hopefully find the leak.

Now one word of caution here ... Is she is like mine, she will slam the deck lid and allow the water to fill the trunk pan. Make sure you have a away out...

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

What you need to do is get into the trunk, close the deck lid, and have the wifey-poo run a garden hose over the rear glass and gasket to hopefully find the leak.

That's what I was thinking. But maybe I can do it with the deck lid open? If the window leaks I think I'll be able to see the water dribbling in, and the water should be diverted around the trunk via the water channel that goes around the opening.

BTW...do they still make the gaskets for the rear window for the 1959 Monterey?

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Now one word of caution here ... Is she is like mine, she will slam the deck lid and allow the water to fill the trunk pan. Make sure you have a away out...

Exactly what I'm trying to avoid! There's no pull chord to open the triunk from the inside in these older cars....


That's what I might

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by miker98038

If it’s structurally ok, I’d go with Dave’s idea above. Something to stabilize the rust, and ‘ ‘glass to finish. Remember to wear a proper mask/respirator.

Thanks, I think it is structurally sound. There are a few areas of heavy pitting and a few small perforations, but overall it is very sturdy. I banged on it pretty good and it was in no way in a weakened state that I could tell.

I think then that is what I will do. Master Series Silver, then some sort of filler that can be sanded/smoother/formed to end up looking very somilar to the original contour of the trunk floor.

I have never used fiberglass resin before. What is the advantage/disadvantage to using fiberglass resin vs something like fiberlass reinforced body filler (bondo)? I know the filler is somewhat easy to apply, finish and paint....and it cleans up easily too. I have no experience working with resin.

[KULTULZ]

BTW...do they still make the gaskets for the rear window for the 1959 Monterey?

What's your BODY CODE?

[KULTULZ]

I think it is structurally sound. There are a few areas of heavy pitting and a few small perforations, but overall it is very sturdy. I banged on it pretty good and it was in no way in a weakened state that I could tell.

If you do lay in the trunk, go easy on the trunk pan as you might have a bad body to gas tank experience ...

[1942deluxe]

In Pennsylvania the floor would have been worse than that in 1964.

[58Yeoman]

First off, I think the cars started to get wider in 57/58, so I don't know if you could go any older. Expanding on Dave's idea, on another site I frequent, one member actually makes center tunnels out of fiberglass sheets and resin and says it's very strong. I had a gas tank cleaned and sealed for an old car I had, and the radiator shop that did it coated the inside with sealer, and the outside with fiberglass mat and resin.

[KULTULZ]

Guess what else?

If the trunk pan is perforated as shown, the vehicle will draw carbon dioxide into it going down the road, same as a bad deck lid gasket.

[Stephenorf]

Originally Posted by kultulz

what's your body code?

58a

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Stephenorf

58a

MERC PN is (was) C0MB 6442084-A (BODY CODES 58 and 64).

I don't know if this will help in the search but at least it is a start.