brake drum removal

[wbs]

30 roadster---hello--when trying to remove rear drum with puller, the front of drum does not move outward like rear prtion of drum and binds as its being withdrawn---things ive done
1 brake levers pushrd bac as far as poss
2wedge moved ccw
3 noted with axle nut all way in wheel turns with slight drag
4 tried tapping drum with hammer in on drum rear -no help

one thing im going to try is c-clamp on rear to equalize ourward mvnnt of drum

any other ideas? thanks

[Ed in Maine]

I have experienced this problem also. The shoes are binding up in a groove worn in the brake drum. Put the transmission in neutral. It may help to jack up both rear wheels. Put the puller on the drum and lightly load the puller against the axle shaft. Put a lug nut on one of the studs to protect the threads. Use a large screw driver or other lug wrench under the lug nut and over the outer portion of the drum and rotate the drum. The drum should move off the shoes with a light pulling pressure and with the rotation. Good luck, Ed

[Bob C]

Try rotating the drum as you pull it, sometimes the shoes hang up.


Bob


Ed types faster.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by wbs

30 roadster---hello--when trying to remove rear drum with puller, the front of drum does not move outward like rear prtion of drum and binds as its being withdrawn---things ive done
1 brake levers pushrd bac as far as poss
2wedge moved ccw
3 noted with axle nut all way in wheel turns with slight drag
4 tried tapping drum with hammer in on drum rear -no help

one thing im going to try is c-clamp on rear to equalize ourward mvnnt of drum

any other ideas? thanks

I am confused when you say "the front of drum does not move outward like rear prtion of drum and binds as its being withdrawn". Do you mean when you tighten the puller the back of the drum moves away from the backing plate and the front does not move? What kind of puller are you using? I hope one that pulls on the snout of the hub and not on the wheel studs?

Charlie Stephens

[1crosscut]

Sometimes there will be a ridge of hardened grease and grime that the shoes will not clear. Try taking a torch to warm the outer edge of the drum to soften it. Take your time and pass that flame around and around and around the outer circumference to heat an loosen it. It may take some time and will get a bit smoky.

[katy]

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What kind of puller are you using? I hope one that pulls on the snout of the hub and not on the wheel studs?

What's wrong w/the type that pulls on the studs? Been using that type for years w/no problems.

[wbs]

thanks to all who replied- am using 3 prong puller with catches which grab onto 90 degree edge in circumferential groove on central hub [not sure of proper name] in any case not on studs

[Bruce of MN]

I also had no success with my 3 jaw puller. You need one of these: https://www.brattons.com/protruding-...ub-puller.html

[wbs]

reply to charlie- yes instead of the drum being equally space 360 degrees, wider space at rear than anterior---yes not a stud fixated puller rather anular groove fixated on hub [not sure proper word] of drum

[wbs]

thanks will give it a try

[Benson]

Is the "parking brake" / E Brake band hanging up on the drum?

Are clevis pins removed from E Brake levers?

If ordering Bratton puller read "More Views" info as there are different shaped hubs and each hub puller is different. here:

https://www.brattons.com/protruding-...ub-puller.html

[wbs]

thanks for reply -yes emergency brake totally disconnected

[wbs]

the drum came off micron by micron with a cant hook [ see pictures -a leverage dev ice for rotating logs] on the lug nuts combined with a 3 prong on the hub ridge -- have not examined drum or shoes yet to see problem but suspect groove indrum plus othersa like Ed suggested

[daveymc29]

I am not a fan of the puller Bratton's sells as they can ruin an axle if drum is too tightly bound, for whatever reason, I have better luck with one sold by Mitchell Mfg. that uses jaws that are completely held into the grove, or alternatively held behind the ring on the hub,and with the pulling being against a heave flat metal piece over the end of the axle. More expensive tool but less apt to do damage to axle threads or the hub. I tighten the tool in place, put a bit of tension on it and sometimes have to give it a tap on the piece over the axle snout to break it loose. The pull is straight with no cocking as I have had with the Bratton's tool. (They can cock and give you fits if the drum is too tight.)

[Purdy Swoft]

I have often in the past used the poor mans knock off wheel puller with good results . The $3.50 tool is listed on page 169 of the Brattons catalog ,part number 6130 . this tool can not damage axle threads when tightened down all the way until it touched the end of the axle . To make things easier bolt on an old wheel to pull against with one hand while you hit the puller tool with a heavy hammer .

[daveymc29]

Purdy, I would respectfully disagree. I doubt it is $3.50, though I don't have the latest catalog in front of me. If the grove is damaged and you don't notice it the cheap one can do damage to the end of the axle as it may begin to spread and then pop off the hub under pressure. I have done it myself and heard of two others that spread and became hazardous to use. I know if everything is like it should be the cheapy works fine. It was a bad hub that gave me fits and ruined my tool. Sorry to say!

[katy]

I have heard that when using a knock-off puller that one should leave the wheel on the ground and jack up the wheel on the opposite side.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by daveymc29

Purdy, I would respectfully disagree. I doubt it is $3.50, though I don't have the latest catalog in front of me. If the grove is damaged and you don't notice it the cheap one can do damage to the end of the axle as it may begin to spread and then pop off the hub under pressure. I have done it myself and heard of two others that spread and became hazardous to use. I know if everything is like it should be the cheapy works fine. It was a bad hub that gave me fits and ruined my tool. Sorry to say!

I checked Brattons on line catalog and the price is still $3.50 , just like it is offered in my 2017 catalog . I know that the cheap tool can cause more problems if the groove is damaged or the tool is used improperly . I'm not recommending the cheap knock off tool , its just what many of us have used before the more expensive hub pullers were readily available in the model A catalogs . I've owned and worked on model A's for 58 years . I remember that back in the day if a common man didn't have a puller they would remove the axle nut and reinstall it backwards and strike it with a hammer to remove the rear hub and drum . The reverse axle nut and hammer to remove the hub can damage the axle threads because the axle nut doesn't have a closed end to rest against the axle like the knock off tool does . If the cheap tool isn't properly tightened so that the closed end rests on the end of the axle , the threads and axle will probably be damaged . With the threads of the axle completely surrounded and the closed end of the tool touching the end of the axle , the threads will not be disturbed . if the tool isn't struck squarely , It can run the risk of bending or breaking off the threaded end of the axle . I now have the more expensive hub puller tool . I only mention the knock off tool because I use to use it and many probably still do .

[wmws]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I have often in the past used the poor mans knock off wheel puller with good results . The $3.50 tool is listed on page 169 of the Brattons catalog ,part number 6130 . this tool can not damage axle threads when tightened down all the way until it touched the end of the axle . To make things easier bolt on an old wheel to pull against with one hand while you hit the puller tool with a heavy hammer .

I don't see a puller in the Bratton's catalogue for $3.50 or on page 169. Was it maybe a different catalogue.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by wmws

I don't see a puller in the Bratton's catalogue for $3.50 or on page 169. Was it maybe a different catalogue.

I was looking at a 2017 catalog , page 169 in the upper left hand corner of the page . If you read my previous posts on this thread you will see that I went to Brattons on line catalog and the part is still offered at $3.50 . This puller is listed in the tool section and not with some of the other pullers .

[Purdy Swoft]

[QUOTE=katy;1703899]I have heard that when using a knock-off puller that one should leave the wheel on the ground and jack up the wheel on the opposite side.[/QUOte



Yes that is the way it was used .

[Bob C]

Here's a link to the knock off puller. https://www.brattons.com/knock-off-wheel-puller.html

[Purdy Swoft]

Thanks Bob C for he link . Nice big pic also !!!

[daveymc29]

Purdy, Gotta say I'm sorry and agree. I thought you were speaking of the cast half cup that has a threaded bolt for a bottom and fits into the groove or over the rib on the hub. I am not a fan of that type, but what do I know?

[Purdy Swoft]

No problem , Davey .