single wire alternator

[flathead 53]

I bought A single wire alternator for my 65 merc comet, which has A three wire hook up and a separate regulator, Will my stock amp gage still function with this new alternator ? thanks

[KULTULZ]

Why a single wire? Did the car come through with an ALT?

[miker98038]

I don’t have a wiring diagram for that car, so I can’t really answer for your case. If the existing amp gauge has full size wiring (probably 10 gauge at least) it’s probably a full current gauge and you can make it work with some rewiring. If it’s small wire, 16-18 gauge, it read off the voltage regulator. Hooking it up as a full current will probably peg it on just the courtesy lights. Been through that with an OT car.

If you post the wiring diagram from the manual, that would help.

K’s question still stands. I personally won’t use one wire alternators, I’ve had too many (aftermarket) that don’t deliver full voltage to the battery. It depends on a variety of items. Many 1 wires can be done as a 3 wire by pulling a jumper. Still doesn’t solve the amp gauge question.

[KULTULZ]

Now that my READING COMPREHENSION DEFICIENCY has somewhat subsided, I see the car came through with an OEM ALT.

It is a 1G SERIES which came in various AMPS and can be pumped up if necessary for HI-OUTPUT.

It would be a shame (IMO) to have a nice COMET with upgraded 302 and you pop the hood and see a DELCO ALT staring at you.

madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

[Ford blue blood]

A 2G from a 90s Aerostar (sp?) will bolt into the same spot with the 1G brackets. The output goes directly to the battery and one wire to the "run" on the ignition switch. The 2G has an internal (actually bolted to the alternator) regulator. Google the 2G for the wire kit to make it an easy install.


You can hook the output of the 2G to the current output wire and the "run" power can be fed off the current wire that feeds the "I" terminal on the current regulator. The rest of the car will never know you changed to a better alternator.

[5851a]

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Read the Mad electrical page especially the tech page. He talks about the Dodges but Ford and Mercury used same type of gauge set up. They run almost all of the power through the gauge. Mid sixties the gauge had just a loop of power wire pass through back of gauge. If you jump the amps up it could be to much for harness. The 2G alternators used spade connectors and were prone to melting wiring and plug at the alt. 3G went to wire bolted to terminal.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by 5851a

The 2G alternators used spade connectors and were prone to melting wiring and plug at the alt. 3G went to wire bolted to terminal.

THANX! for the 2G reminder. FORD had a lot of fires to warranty.

3G is the ultimate but I always consider OEM appearance.

[Ford blue blood]

The 2G issue appears to have been "fixed" with improved connectors and a better seal around the terminals. Been in my car for a couple of years with no issues.


I did use a readily available after market kit to complete the install.


I also have a 3G that will bolt into the 1G hardware, do not remember what model and year it came out of. Only draw back with it is it is huge compared to the 1G and 2G. Huge in diameter, spacing is the same with respect to pulley etc. Of note, the V belt pulley from the 1G will swap directly on to both 2 & 3G alternators.

[estout81]

I installed a 2G on a '88 Ranger that I did a V-8 swap in. Very easy swap and has been over ten years and no problems.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Ford blue blood

The 2G issue appears to have been "fixed" with improved connectors and a better seal around the terminals. Been in my car for a couple of years with no issues.

FORD's fix for the 2G was the 3G.

Your car doesn't have the AMP demands the cars that the 2G was installed on.

What you decide to use is entirely your choice, but the hobby should be aware of certain things and the 2G is one. Bad engineering.

[Ford blue blood]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

FORD's fix for the 2G was the 3G.

Your car doesn't have the AMP demands the cars that the 2G was installed on.

What you decide to use is entirely your choice, but the hobby should be aware of certain things and the 2G is one. Bad engineering.

Absolutely correct, the engineering was horrible! The original harness seal was crap, moisture and "stuff" got on the terminals causing corrosion thus heat.


Yes our modified cars would present a much lower load to the alternator which IMHO makes them a perfect replacement for the 1G when space is an issue. Especially when using the new aftermarket kits. There was no way the 3G would fit in my street rod, hence the 2G to meet the requirements for the AC and electric fan.

[KULTULZ]

There was no way the 3G would fit in my street rod, hence the 2G to meet the requirements for the AC and electric fan.

OIC!

You have a STREET ROD and you wanted a higher AMP w/ Internal Regulator for appearance (3G being too large).

THANK YOU SO MUCH for not going to the enemy side (DELCO-REMY).

(I would say DELCO-MORON) but it upsets some of the members here ...