07-04-2018, 11:12 AM | #1 |
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Head Removal
I would like to remove the head to free up the valves and install a new head gasket. My concern is the distributor so I get it back in the right position. This is my first Model A so I don't know where to start. There is probably a place to have the number 1 piston before I take it apart? Looking for help.
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07-04-2018, 11:50 AM | #2 |
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Re: Head Removal
dosen"t matter on the distributor, only on timing does the piston need to be tdc.http://modelabasics.com/home.htm
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07-04-2018, 11:52 AM | #3 |
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Re: Head Removal
You could always use the Timing pin in the front of the engine to find #1 at TDC. Then remove the distributor cap and photograph where the rotor is pointing for later reference.
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07-04-2018, 12:11 PM | #4 |
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Re: Head Removal
If it is correctly timed before you take it apart it can only go back together one way.It doesn't have a gear with multiple options like a modern car.
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07-04-2018, 01:42 PM | #5 |
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Re: Head Removal
The dist is the easy part. Getting the head off and not breaking studs, might be the hard part.
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07-04-2018, 03:04 PM | #6 |
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Re: Head Removal
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07-04-2018, 03:12 PM | #7 |
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Re: Head Removal
Loosen the head nuts, remove distributor, crank engine over. Head should pop up. Leave spark plugs in head.
Use penetrating oil on studs before you start working on them. Good luck. Last edited by WHN; 07-04-2018 at 07:42 PM. |
07-04-2018, 05:10 PM | #8 |
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Re: Head Removal
We changed out two head gaskets at the repair facility in Sparks. Both came off with one bump of the lead hammer under the water pump after removing the studs. Most were able to be removed with fingers and a couple on both engines required a pair of pliers to get them started, Both sets of studs had been installed with anti-seize and both head gaskets had been sprayed with a sealant that had reacted poorly with the silicone gasket.
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07-04-2018, 06:52 PM | #9 |
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Re: Head Removal
[QUOTE=daveymc29;Both sets of studs had been installed with anti-seize and both head gaskets had been sprayed with a sealant that had reacted poorly with the silicone gasket.[/QUOTE]
Therein lies the problem:no sealant is to be used on the silicone gaskets. |
07-04-2018, 10:45 PM | #10 |
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Re: Head Removal
Getting a head off can be quite a challenge at times. There are pullers available from the suppliers that works quite well. Give it a try before purchasing one. Perhaps you will get lucky. DON'T use screw drivers etc... to try and pry it up. You can do some pretty serious damage to the block and bend valves by sticking stuff in there and prying and hammering.
Patience grasshopper! After you get it all back together you can re-time the distributor to the engine then. No worries about leaving the engine in a specific position while working on it. Next time you make an order for parts buy the NuRex timing wrench. Makes timing an engine a snap.
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07-04-2018, 10:51 PM | #11 |
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Re: Head Removal
All good advice here. My advice, get a copy of Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook by Les Andrews Vol #1. Lots of good information in there with procedures of how to repair your Model A.
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07-04-2018, 11:03 PM | #12 |
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Re: Head Removal
Chuck Sea Tac I agree 100%
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07-05-2018, 08:27 AM | #13 |
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Re: Head Removal
Thanks to everyone that responded to my questions it is so helpful to have a place to ask questions and receive an answer or suggestion. You guys are great!
Last edited by 1930deluxe; 07-05-2018 at 10:13 AM. |
07-05-2018, 10:08 AM | #14 |
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Re: Head Removal
Gary, great web site thank you
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07-06-2018, 09:51 AM | #15 |
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Re: Head Removal
As you are taking it off or putting it on, be sure to use small blocks or sticks when you get it up a little. They can slam down and pinch your fingers.
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07-06-2018, 10:17 AM | #16 |
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Re: Head Removal
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07-06-2018, 10:23 AM | #17 | |
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Re: Head Removal
Quote:
Also they make a distributer puller if it is stuck. Charlie Stephens |
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07-06-2018, 10:24 AM | #18 |
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Re: Head Removal
As a precaution, I would get the engine on number one cyl. TDC (Top Dead Center) as a starting point. Use the Timing pin, you'll see it down by the crankshaft pulley. Unscrew it and reverse it. When the engine is at TCD, Number1 compression stroke, it will fall into a dimple on the cam gear. Use the crank to bring it around, not the starter.
The hard part about removing the distributer (sometimes) is getting it out of the head. There is a 3/8 X 24set screw on the edge of the head between the exhaust manifold and the head that must be loosened and backed off first. Then the distributor must off lifted straight off for a 1/4" Do not try to rotate it! It is on a locating pin and has to be lifted off first. Once it's clear of the pin you can rotate it. The distributor body is cast iron and will crack if too much pressure is used. Squirt a lot of WD 40 or whatever your favorite bolt loosener is and let it penetrate say over night if the distributor is stuck. Just keep working it, it'll come! Take a look at the crosspin slot on the distributor shaft. You'll notice it's slightly off center. This is so it can only go one way. Good luck! Terry |
07-06-2018, 12:48 PM | #19 |
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Re: Head Removal
He is going to be working on the valves,so he will be turning the engine over quite a lot.I wouldn't waste any time getting it up to number one first for what he is doing.Those distributers are pretty delicate castings,so don't pry on it much.If you have to take the head off with the distributer still in it.It's much easier to drive it out from below.
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07-07-2018, 07:19 AM | #20 |
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Re: Head Removal
yup and it the studs are not rusted to the head. it took me 3 weeks to take off my head it was rusted bad
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