The Ford Barn

Kentf1003 · 04-09-2012, 06:44 PM

I'm restoring a 40 pickup. Rebuilding the door latches, window regulators, etc. at present. My pickup has one outside lock cylinder on the passenger side. Need to know the proper method for pulling the lock out. There is a hole on the edge of the door, but there doesn't appear to be a screw there. Looks like some kind of rivet? Anyone have experience with these little jewels?

waterboychuck · 04-09-2012, 06:51 PM

I have experience with 48-50 PU door locks. Mine has the same type of hole and you use a allen wrench to unscrew it and the lock should come out.

Kentf1003 · 04-09-2012, 07:04 PM

Hope it is a dirt filled allen screw and not simply a slotted screw with the head broke off. I'll keep you posted. Thanks Barner.

mrmoose · 04-09-2012, 07:11 PM

I have a '41 with the same lock. It is held in place by an allen screw. Do your best to clean it up well to ensure that it is indeed an allen screw (it may have been replaced with a common screw). Either way, you'll want to soak it well with a good penetrating oil, repeatedly, let it set, and it should come out. It may take repeated tries. Be patient.

Kentf1003 · 04-09-2012, 07:23 PM

The good news - It is an allen screw filled with dirt.

The bad news - Someone rounded out the middle, probably a century ago. Now I see why it looked like a rivet. (Let the fun begin.)

Kerk · 04-09-2012, 07:30 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

TRY A Metric set of allen wrenches . You might get lucky and get one you that will be a tight fit. SOAK WITH SOLVENT AND pray a lot . just a suggestion.

ford38v8 · 04-09-2012, 07:35 PM

Kent, As someone else tried and failed to get it out, you might try a weld-on stud like as used in body repair. This is a guess, I haven't done it, but it should give you something to hold onto, and the welding heat should break up the rust hold on the original allen screw. Whatever method works for you, please keep us posted, as lots of guys also have the same problem.

3quarter32 · 04-09-2012, 07:46 PM

I have had success with stripped allen bolt holes, by using a torx bit. Just a bit of tapping to wedge it inside the worn or stripped allen socket. Soak it like mentioned before.
Lee

Bruce Lancaster · 04-09-2012, 07:52 PM

Also, try to use the acess hole as a fulcrum and lever as much as you can against the head in all possible directions...this will help break the rust and get the penetrant into the threads.

Kentf1003 · 04-09-2012, 09:29 PM

I'm letting it soak tonight. Think I'll try the torx approach tomorrow. I'm afraid to weld to it since the case that it threads into has the look of pot metal.

Bruce Lancaster · 04-09-2012, 09:38 PM

I believe the part that it screws into is a little sheetmetal cage welded to main door...you are probably seeing a mysteriously clean spot.
If no go...since it has the remains of the allen hole, it will start a drill nicely centered and if you are careful you can probably drillitout. Inner part should fall away before you get into the cylinder, then you can tap the hole you enlarged for a number 12 to replace the 10.

mrmoose · 04-10-2012, 07:43 AM

Kent, I had to soak mine a couple times a week for 2-3 weeks, and try a little torque each time. It finally gave and came out easily. BE PATIENT! My wife is always reminding me that these are lifelong projects, and I need to......be patient. Good luck!

4dFord/SC · 04-10-2012, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kentf1003

I'm letting it soak tonight. Think I'll try the torx approach tomorrow. I'm afraid to weld to it since the case that it threads into has the look of pot metal.

Good luck. Ended up having to drill mine out, and it was made of some really hard metal

Kentf1003 · 04-10-2012, 08:27 AM

Used several methods this morning with no success. Then had a brainstorm that was scarey.

Since it is about a half inch tunnel that it screws in, I decided to use a dremel cutoff disk and trim around the allen screw, taking off 1/8" of the outside case. Soaked it again and then used a narrow long-handled pair of pliers that I use for tight squeezing. I could hear the angles in heaven playing their harps as it gave up the ghost and slowly screwed out.

Thanks for all of the clever ideas Barners.

Kentf1003 · 04-10-2012, 08:34 AM

I failed to mention that using the dremel required cutting a one-inch opening in the door around the original peep-hole. I've saved it to mig back in place.

Mart · 05-09-2018, 02:24 PM

Thanks to this thread I have successfully removed my 41pu door lock barrel. I had tried knocking a torx bit into the mauled up end of the screw but broke it off. I was resigned to using the dremel method as described above, and made a 1" access hole. with the better access I managed to pull out the remnants of the torx bit. I then managed to break off another. (cheapo set). I decided to drill out the screw, which I did. I got the barrel out, but was left with the screw remnants. With the bigger access hole I was able to get the torch on the screw tube and get it red hot. I was then able to knock a square drive bit (rare in the UK) and get the screw remnants to turn. I eventually got it out and was able to run a tap down to clean it up.

On reflection, if I had used the heat earlier, the initial attempt with the torx bit may have worked.

So thanks, Fordbarners, for spelling out that there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Or remove a door lock.

Mart.

04-09-2012, 06:51 PM	#2
waterboychuck Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Nine Mile Falls,WA Posts: 900	Re: Removing Door Lock I have experience with 48-50 PU door locks. Mine has the same type of hole and you use a allen wrench to unscrew it and the lock should come out.

04-09-2012, 07:04 PM	#3
Kentf1003 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138	Re: Removing Door Lock Hope it is a dirt filled allen screw and not simply a slotted screw with the head broke off. I'll keep you posted. Thanks Barner.

04-09-2012, 07:11 PM	#4
mrmoose Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St. Petersburg, FL Posts: 168	Re: Removing Door Lock I have a '41 with the same lock. It is held in place by an allen screw. Do your best to clean it up well to ensure that it is indeed an allen screw (it may have been replaced with a common screw). Either way, you'll want to soak it well with a good penetrating oil, repeatedly, let it set, and it should come out. It may take repeated tries. Be patient.

04-09-2012, 07:23 PM	#5
Kentf1003 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138	Re: Removing Door Lock The good news - It is an allen screw filled with dirt. The bad news - Someone rounded out the middle, probably a century ago. Now I see why it looked like a rivet. (Let the fun begin.)

04-09-2012, 07:30 PM	#6
Kerk Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 642	Re: Removing Door Lock Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) TRY A Metric set of allen wrenches . You might get lucky and get one you that will be a tight fit. SOAK WITH SOLVENT AND pray a lot . just a suggestion.

04-09-2012, 07:35 PM	#7
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,641	Re: Removing Door Lock Kent, As someone else tried and failed to get it out, you might try a weld-on stud like as used in body repair. This is a guess, I haven't done it, but it should give you something to hold onto, and the welding heat should break up the rust hold on the original allen screw. Whatever method works for you, please keep us posted, as lots of guys also have the same problem. __________________ Alan

04-09-2012, 07:46 PM	#8
3quarter32 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 147	Re: Removing Door Lock I have had success with stripped allen bolt holes, by using a torx bit. Just a bit of tapping to wedge it inside the worn or stripped allen socket. Soak it like mentioned before. Lee

04-09-2012, 07:52 PM	#9
Bruce Lancaster Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Madison, NJ Posts: 5,230	Re: Removing Door Lock Also, try to use the acess hole as a fulcrum and lever as much as you can against the head in all possible directions...this will help break the rust and get the penetrant into the threads.

04-09-2012, 09:29 PM	#10
Kentf1003 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138	Re: Removing Door Lock I'm letting it soak tonight. Think I'll try the torx approach tomorrow. I'm afraid to weld to it since the case that it threads into has the look of pot metal.

04-09-2012, 09:38 PM	#11
Bruce Lancaster Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Madison, NJ Posts: 5,230	Re: Removing Door Lock I believe the part that it screws into is a little sheetmetal cage welded to main door...you are probably seeing a mysteriously clean spot. If no go...since it has the remains of the allen hole, it will start a drill nicely centered and if you are careful you can probably drillitout. Inner part should fall away before you get into the cylinder, then you can tap the hole you enlarged for a number 12 to replace the 10.

04-10-2012, 07:43 AM	#12
mrmoose Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St. Petersburg, FL Posts: 168	Re: Removing Door Lock Kent, I had to soak mine a couple times a week for 2-3 weeks, and try a little torque each time. It finally gave and came out easily. BE PATIENT! My wife is always reminding me that these are lifelong projects, and I need to......be patient. Good luck!

04-10-2012, 08:34 AM	#15
Kentf1003 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138	Re: Removing Door Lock I failed to mention that using the dremel required cutting a one-inch opening in the door around the original peep-hole. I've saved it to mig back in place.

05-09-2018, 02:24 PM	#16
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,749	Re: Removing Door Lock Thanks to this thread I have successfully removed my 41pu door lock barrel. I had tried knocking a torx bit into the mauled up end of the screw but broke it off. I was resigned to using the dremel method as described above, and made a 1" access hole. with the better access I managed to pull out the remnants of the torx bit. I then managed to break off another. (cheapo set). I decided to drill out the screw, which I did. I got the barrel out, but was left with the screw remnants. With the bigger access hole I was able to get the torch on the screw tube and get it red hot. I was then able to knock a square drive bit (rare in the UK) and get the screw remnants to turn. I eventually got it out and was able to run a tap down to clean it up. On reflection, if I had used the heat earlier, the initial attempt with the torx bit may have worked. So thanks, Fordbarners, for spelling out that there is more than one way to skin a cat. Or remove a door lock. Mart.