1938 tudor standard

[compyello]

I am new here and new to old fords. This old ford is new to me as well. There is a long story so I will try to make it brief. This car belonged to my grandfather after he bought it from his grandfather in 1961. There was talk that I was going to one day recieve the car from my grandfather, things happened and the car was sold about 19 years ago. In the past few years I expressed interest in getting the car. My grandpa talked to the then current owner and let things sit. Recently he contacted my grandfather and said he would be willing to sell the car. Well I picked it up last weekend. I have many questions.

[King ford]

Congrats!

[compyello]

Thank you King ford

[ford38v8]

Hey Compy, welcome, pull up a spare tire and get a load off. We got answers to all your questions. Might not be the right answers, but we pride ourselves on our wide diversity of wrong answers!

It would be great if you could fill in your profile with locality, bank account numbers, and key codes, so we know where to find you and how to deal with your questions when the time comes! Post lots of pictures, too!

[compyello]

Thanks for the welcome ford38v8. I guess most of my questions come from me not knowing anything about these cars (not a Jeep CJ or SBC) and not knowing the direction to go with it. I also have my grandpa, dad, and previous owners providing opinions and thoughts. Another problem is finances are tapped out (I have too many project vehicles that all need work) so I am not going to do everything all at once but I want to avoid working against myself or going backwards.
1. One water pump is off. not sure if I want to put it on and see what happens, rebuild it myself, buy new, or send it out to be rebuilt (which seems to be the popular opinon here)?
2. The distributor is off, same as the water pump issues. or convert it to electronic ignition
3. 6 volt or 12?
I do kind of want to start it and drive it around a bit to check everything out so that is why I am tempted to put it together as is. I will start wit hthose questions for now, thanks all

[compyello]

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Here are some more pictures. I forgot to mention it has a newer engine, maybe a 42 mercury?

[tubman]

Nice lookin' car; appears to be in great shape. Please don't get bitten by the "hot rod bug". If one water pump is off, there has to be something holding the engine up. Since it's already apart, you should probably remove the other pump and send them to Skip. It sounds like there was a problem with the distributor, so that should probably be taken off and sent out as well, since they should be set up on a machine. Make sure the fuel system is up to snuff, check the brakes, and drive it for a while to see where you are.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by compyello

Thanks for the welcome ford38v8. I guess most of my questions come from me not knowing anything about these cars (not a Jeep CJ or SBC) and not knowing the direction to go with it. I also have my grandpa, dad, and previous owners providing opinions and thoughts. Another problem is finances are tapped out (I have too many project vehicles that all need work) so I am not going to do everything all at once but I want to avoid working against myself or going backwards.
1. One water pump is off. not sure if I want to put it on and see what happens, rebuild it myself, buy new, or send it out to be rebuilt (which seems to be the popular opinon here)?
2. The distributor is off, same as the water pump issues. or convert it to electronic ignition
3. 6 volt or 12?
I do kind of want to start it and drive it around a bit to check everything out so that is why I am tempted to put it together as is. I will start wit hthose questions for now, thanks all

Great! You have the right attitude, unlike many who start right in dismantling with good but misguided intentions.

1 - Remove the other water pump also. Good to start with known good pumps, so as to not revisit old problems that took it off the road. Try here for rebuilt with improved impellers: (You'll hear Skip's name here often.)
Skip Haney www.fordcollector.com
Remanufactured coils and high volume modified water pumps for flatheads

2- Stay far away from electronic distributors. The distributor you have in hand is as good as it gets. Send it and the coil it has to Skip for a rebuild better than anything new and shiny.

3 - 6 v is all anyone needs. Changing to 12v is only a dirty band aid on oxidized wounds.

4 - You haven't asked yet, but send the radiator out to be flushed and flow tested. Flush the block well before you install the pumps. Be sure to use a rust inhibitor in the distilled water you'll want to use in the system.

You're gonna want the EFV8CA book entitled 1938-39 Ford Book.
You'd do well to join the club, and maybe even a Regional Group as well!
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/early-ford-store.cfm

And a reprint (or CD) of the Ford Service Bulletins.
http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordp...er=CD-38-48-SB

More questions?

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

How long has it set since it has been started? Is there oil in the engine? Is the engine stuck or does it turn over? I'd pull the plugs, squirt some Mistery oil in the cyl, take a compression test. Walt

[compyello]

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

How long has it set since it has been started? Is there oil in the engine? Is the engine stuck or does it turn over? I'd pull the plugs, squirt some Mistery oil in the cyl, take a compression test. Walt

It has been at least 20 years maybe even close to 30 since it has ran, the engine is free

[flatheadv8]

Congrats on the car, she looks great!

Check out the age of the tires as well. A good looking old tire with decent tread is still an old tire.

[wisbangman]

Is this a 60 or 85 horse engine ? I believe that the 1938 standard with the 60 horse engine, did not have the chrome trim on the grille, as your car appears to show.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by flatheadv8

Congrats on the car, she looks great!

Check out the age of the tires as well. A good looking old tire with decent tread is still an old tire.

I'm a good looking old man, so I can identify.

[compyello]

Originally Posted by flatheadv8

Congrats on the car, she looks great!

Check out the age of the tires as well. A good looking old tire with decent tread is still an old tire.

Thank you. Funny story on the tires, my grandfather stopped at the local firestone. I am sure explained his budget, they discussed the use of the car and he bought four new farm tires at $8 each

[compyello]

Originally Posted by wisbangman

Is this a 60 or 85 horse engine ? I believe that the 1938 standard with the 60 horse engine, did not have the chrome trim on the grille, as your car appears to show.

60 horse car with maybe a 42 mercury 95 or 100 horse transplant. I need to look into the engine more.

[compyello]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Great! You have the right attitude, unlike many who start right in dismantling with good but misguided intentions.

1 - Remove the other water pump also. Good to start with known good pumps, so as to not revisit old problems that took it off the road. Try here for rebuilt with improved impellers: (You'll hear Skip's name here often.)
Skip Haney www.fordcollector.com
Remanufactured coils and high volume modified water pumps for flatheads
Probably the best thing to do I know
2- Stay far away from electronic distributors. The distributor you have in hand is as good as it gets. Send it and the coil it has to Skip for a rebuild better than anything new and shiny.
What about an electronic conversion for the existing distributor?
3 - 6 v is all anyone needs. Changing to 12v is only a dirty band aid on oxidized wounds.
12 volt seemed like a good idea, modern, and maybe easier at times. I may look at a rewire so there are thoughts of converting it at that time.
4 - You haven't asked yet, but send the radiator out to be flushed and flow tested. Flush the block well before you install the pumps. Be sure to use a rust inhibitor in the distilled water you'll want to use in the system.
The radiator may have come from the engine donor car. Someone worked over the hood to provide clearence for the radiator so if it goes to the radiator shop I may have them shorten it also. What is this rust inhibitor? Are you talking about an antifreeze?
You're gonna want the EFV8CA book entitled 1938-39 Ford Book.
You'd do well to join the club, and maybe even a Regional Group as well!
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/early-ford-store.cfm
Is there information in there that is not availabe on-line?
And a reprint (or CD) of the Ford Service Bulletins.
http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordp...er=CD-38-48-SB

More questions?

Many... I am sure they will come up. Thank you so far

[Mike in AZ]

welcome to the 'Barn.....great start to the flathead bug...lol...and a family historied car, too...very cool.....maybe some pics of the engine, etc??.....link is to MacVP's website with lots of good info, parts drawings, etc...have fun....Mike

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_home.htm

[compyello]

A few engine pictures and one distributor

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by compyello

Many... I am sure they will come up. Thank you so far

Electronic conversion is still electronic. The Ford dual point distributor is without doubt the ultimate mechanical distributor ever offered on any make of car. Any electronic component is vulnerable to excess heat, of which the Ford Flathead engine has an abundance of.

Electronic controls for ignition are superior if and only if integrated into a central computer control system of fuel, air, and ignition timing, as modern cars are controlled.

12v conversions require considerably more than a 12v battery. you will need voltage reducers for each of your dash gauges, and your fuel sender. You will need your generator replaced, and your starter motor will chew up your ring gear if not reworked for 12v. Your lights will need replacing with 12v bulbs, the list goes on, as do related maintenance issues. ...Again, a 12v conversion is simply a band aid that does not address underlying problems.

I forgot, you are in Iowa, not California. Yes, antifreeze contains a rust inhibitor.

The 60 hp radiator is not adequate for the 24 stud engine. Not knowing what you currently have, I wouldn't go overboard on that radiator until you know what you have. Pictures are golden.

The EFV8CA is more than simply information available online. The club is composed of real flesh and blood men and women worldwide, all with an abiding interest in Ford Motor vehicles manufactured between 1932 and 1953. Participation in club events is not required, nor is the ownership of a club car. That said, there are National Meets and Tours, a thick roster of members to carry in your glovebox, always available for socializing or road emergencies, and an award winning bimonthly magazine devoted specifically to the mutual interests of the membership. ...Then, there are also the Regional Groups of the club, of which there are two in your home state of Iowa, which offer membership and various activities of their own.

[swoopNZ]

Looks like an early 38 std without the stainless trim.

[39topless]

Are those 40 standard headlight rims? They actually look pretty good.

[compyello]

Originally Posted by 39topless

Are those 40 standard headlight rims? They actually look pretty good.

I thought they were aftermarket pieces, not sure

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Originally Posted by compyello

A few engine pictures and one distributor

The engine has 59AB in the center of the heads and a 46-48 crab dist. Chances are it's a 46-48 Ford and Merc, there the same engine, 100HP Walt

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

My first car that I could legal license and insure when I was 15 was a twin to this one, 38 2dr with 21 stud 85 HP, that was in 1951, seems like yesterday. Walt

[ford38v8]

Compy, your fan blade has been trimmed to clear the odd radiator installation. If you obtain a correct radiator, you should also replace the fan, as it may be out of balance from the trim. This would be a serious condition.

All your engine bolt-on parts are from the donor vehicle, a 1942 Mercury. The carburetor is from a 1949 Ford, and should have the offset vacuum line blocked off. You do need a vacuum line from the intake manifold to the distributor, and another line to the windshield wipers.

[ford38v8]

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Originally Posted by 39topless

Are those 40 standard headlight rims? They actually look pretty good.

They are aftermarket, with sealed beam bulbs.

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

The engine has 59AB in the center of the heads and a 46-48 crab dist. Chances are it's a 46-48 Ford and Merc, there the same engine, 100HP Walt

Walt, a correction: the heads indicate that it is a 29A, one of the best flatheads made.

[36 ford]

"6 v is all anyone needs. Changing to 12v is only a dirty band aid on oxidized wounds."

Huh? What's that mean?

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by 36 ford

"6 v is all anyone needs. Changing to 12v is only a dirty band aid on oxidized wounds."

Huh? What's that mean?

6 volt electrical system as opposed to a 12 volt electrical system.

[compyello]

The car is at my father's, I plan on going out there over the weekend. Is there certain areas I should take pictures of. I would like to get an idea of how to ID the engine. Where would the coil mount? I will dig out the radiator and take some pictures and measurements.

[ford38v8]

Compy, your engine is identified as a 1942 Mercury 100 HP Flathead V8. The distributor coil is mounted on the driver side above the head. It may have a transmission from the donor car as well, which is very likely, as the original to the car would not adapt to this engine. A date of manufacture can be determined by the serial number of the transmission, located on the bell housing above the inspection plate. The floorboard will have to be removed to see this serial number, which is of value to you only to satisfy curiosity.

Yes, more photos would be good, and can determine what needs to be done in regard to the radiator. Of interest also would be the frame and motor mount at the location of the missing water pump. The car's serial number will be located on the driver side top of frame, visible from under the hood. It may be greasy and hard to see, but it is definitely there, with a star in front, and a star at the end. Compare that number to the number found on the paper title of the car.

You'll want to take pictures of the underside of the hood at the hood support on the driver side. Your hood has been damaged and functionally repaired, but not restored visually. The damage was caused by the hood support, which is of a unique but inferior design. A caution here: When lifting the hood, the support will ratchet to the open support position, and must be lifted a second time to ratchet to the closed position. Do not simply pull the hood down to close it. Pictures of the interior upholstery, and of the dashboard and it's controls and gauges may be useful. Pictures of the metal floorboard just in front of the driver seat can determine general condition in regard to rust. Picture under the floor at the driver position foot pedals to determine if the original mechanical cable brakes have been replaced with hydraulic brakes, there will be a master cylinder at that location.

Most valuable to you at this time would be the two books mentioned earlier.

[compyello]

I do have a few general pictures and I will post a few more. I guess the only reason to ID the engine is to get correct parts. I probably won't pull up the floor at this time to check.
The hood I think is beyond saving for a restoration, for my purposes at this time it will work just fine. The guy I purchased the car from does have a hood and at sometime I will have the opportunity to talk with him about the parts he has.
It does still have the mechanical brakes which is another area involving many questions but not important at this time.
Does it look like the 38 generator was used? Should I look at a lower mounted fan?
Thanks for your help Ford38v8

[ford38v8]

All hoods of the vintage are beyond saving, but it is what it is. The generator is good. Don't let it get away from you. The generator mount fan is what you need. The low mount will not work for you.

Should you attend a V8 Club meet, you'll quite possibly win a Rouge award for the interior and/or Exterior. This is a prestigious award.

[Flowmeister]

This is beautiful!
Shouldn't take a lot to get it going and really enjoy it.

[Snouts out]

I wonder what kind of transmission you have,60 hp won't fit a 85 hp! Yank the engine,check the clutch & transmission. Replace all the moter & transmission mounts.

[Fredb_]

Welcome Compy, yours looks a lot like mine did a couple of years ago. It's a fun journey that I'm still engaged in, and these guys are an immense support. Fred

[compyello]

Originally Posted by Flowmeister

This is beautiful!
Shouldn't take a lot to get it going and really enjoy it.

Thank you, I am sure it will be a good time

Originally Posted by Snouts out

I wonder what kind of transmission you have,60 hp won't fit a 85 hp! Yank the engine,check the clutch & transmission. Replace all the moter & transmission mounts.

Not sure on the trans and I guess as long as it work it is ok with me. I can not pull the engine and trans. Difficult to explain but I feel like I need to drive it. If I pull it apart at this point I know it will snowball and then has a possiblity of stalling. I know what you are saying but I foresee what could happen with me

Originally Posted by Fredb_

Welcome Compy, yours looks a lot like mine did a couple of years ago. It's a fun journey that I'm still engaged in, and these guys are an immense support. Fred

Thanks for the welcome Fred, what does your's look like now?

[compyello]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

All hoods of the vintage are beyond saving, but it is what it is. The generator is good. Don't let it get away from you. The generator mount fan is what you need. The low mount will not work for you.

Should you attend a V8 Club meet, you'll quite possibly win a Rouge award for the interior and/or Exterior. This is a prestigious award.

Could you explain why the lower mount fan would not work on this application?

[swoopNZ]

The lower fan was attached to the crankshaft on 39-41 cars.
That radiator sat lower than 37-38 models.
Your 38 radiator sits higher and may not be cooled efficiently by the fan being lower down.
Going by the smaller ID hose it looks like they may have left the V8-60 radiator in your car.
Best to change it out for a larger capacity 37/38 85HP one.
None of the early production 38 standards whether they were 60 or 85HP had the grille stainless and body side stainless trim.
That came in a couple of months later.

[compyello]

I was wondering if I should be running a fan that may be a mid mount? Lower than the generator like a few inches lower. If my engine is a 42 an idler pulley style would be correct, does that sound right? If I post photos of the radiator, is it easy to ID as a 60 hp?

[ford38v8]

Your fan should be mounted on the generator. Post pics of the radiator, we'll give it a shot. Let's see the top tank at the rear, and the side view if you can. Count the rows of tubes front to back, and side to side?

[milo]

Hey compyello, Just found this thread.. Cool car and story...

[compyello]

Thanks Carl

[sidevalve8ba]

This is a little belated but welcome to the Barn, Compy. I really like those '38 Standards.

[compyello]

Thank you side valve

[compyello]

A few radiator pictures, the core is about 23 1/2 tall, and around 16 wide. The hood has been hammer on the sides where the radiator may have been too tall to close the hood with out hitting. I also ask about a lower mount fan because ford38v8 mentioned the fan blades look like they have been cut

[milo]

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I think that might be a V8-60 radiator.. You can compare pics to the V8-60 radiator I have for sale in the Swap meet section.. I've been told they are not the same as 85hp radiators...

[compyello]

Here you may be able to see where the hood was massaged to clear the radiator.
Milo, I am still not sure why your car has the stainless in the grill and down the sides and mine does not. I am sure someone here knows.
I am waitng on ordering any literature at this time, I spoke with the guy I got the car from and he is going to take a look and see what he has. I should add that he has been a really great guy to deal with and it was very nice of him to allow me to buy the car from him.

[milo]

I was told the early 38's didn't have the stainless but later ones did.. I think to dress them up a little...

[JSeery]

Not sure from the photo, but the hood damage could the the typical damage that almost all 38 std have because of how the hood catch worked.

[Brendan]

welcome...Just get your car running and safe! you will have more fun with it!
if you need a place to put it you can park it in my garage...Lol

[SofaKing]

Welcome, beautiful car, interesting history. Judging from the responses I expect we will be seeing more photos!

[compyello]

Thanks for the welcome Brendan and Sofaking

[JSeery]

Just looked back at the photo posted in #1 and it sure looks like the typical hood catch damage on these cars. Bad news is it is not easy to repair and good hoods are hard to come by as almost all of them ended up this way sooner or later. If it still has the original catch I would remove it. Don't think the hood condition has any connection to the radiator.

[compyello]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Just looked back at the photo posted in #1 and it sure looks like the typical hood catch damage on these cars. Bad news is it is not easy to repair and good hoods are hard to come by as almost all of them ended up this way sooner or later. If it still has the original catch I would remove it. Don't think the hood condition has any connection to the radiator.

JSeery, for me one of the worst parts of the car is the hood. The guy I got the car from has a hood just not sure if I will be able to afford it when the time comes

[fordv8j]

A good looking 38...some may try to tell you 38s are are the ugly ducks...DON'T BELEIVE THEM!!! I have been driving mine for 51 years..it is 6volt that's all we need...sounds like 38v8 may be bragging a little on his looks...but he does know the 38s..he was a great help to me when I MADE our 38 convertible coupe...good luck and enjoy the 38

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by compyello

JSeery, for me one of the worst parts of the car is the hood. The guy I got the car from has a hood just not sure if I will be able to afford it when the time comes

Definitely the 38s weak spot!

[sidevalve8ba]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Definitely the 38s weak spot!

Can you educate those of us who are unaware of the problems with the '38 hood latch?

[compyello]

My grandfather's 41. Today he found a 38 clock, not sure if it was for my car or just something he had for awhile. So now sometime in the future I should find a glove box door for a clock. It was really neat that he had one.

[milo]

I don't think standards came with a clock...

[swoopNZ]

A clock was available as an accessory for the 38 Standard.
You don't see them very often.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by sidevalve8ba

Can you educate those of us who are unaware of the problems with the '38 hood latch?

The hood support was a ratchet type of device that when you lift it up latches. To lower it you first have to lift it a little to click the ratchet and then lower it. A lot of people did not understand how it worked and just reached up and attempted to close it. The hoods are fairly weak and will buckle along the side where the latch is attached if pulled on very hard. It is fairly rare to see one without at least a little bulge on the left side of the hood.

[FlatheadTed]

Try and recover the hood since its the original part ,a good body man and a few shrinks on the bulges and tap them down .weld a reinforcing on the kinked side pull it in with a tie down strap .Ted

[compyello]

Originally Posted by milo

I don't think standards came with a clock...

Originally Posted by swoopNZ

A clock was available as an accessory for the 38 Standard.
You don't see them very often.

Well this one did not come with a clock, the clock came after. Either way I was excited to recieve it. Maybe it won't even go on the car, maybe it will go in the house somewhere

[compyello]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Try and recover the hood since its the original part ,a good body man and a few shrinks on the bulges and tap them down .weld a reinforcing on the kinked side pull it in with a tie down strap .Ted

The original hood is not going anywhere but I am interested to see if this replacement is affordable. Not short of bodymen here with myself, my father, and my grandfather. I also have a friend is is an incredible metal finisher. Interesting storry about the hood having two bullet scrapes from when a Nebraska marshall was shooting out of the open windshield, the story was told to my grandfather from two different sources.

[compyello]

Can anyone confirm if I have a 60 hp radiator? see post #45

[38 coupe]

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You have a 60 hp radiator. The top tank sticks out in front of the core farther on the 60 radiator than it does on the 85 radiator. You need an 85 hp radiator. The radiator you need interchanges with all 85 hp 37 and 38 passenger cars and 39 standard cars. This page has a couple pictures of a 37-38-39 standard 85 hp radiator: http://precisioncarrestoration.com/1937-ford-tudor/

The 60 radiator sits further back on the frame than the 85 radiator. If the 60 radiator is moved forward it may interfere with the hood, thus the hammer work to make things fit.

Nice car. I like 38 Fords, I have a coupe in need of restoration myself.

[mercman from oz]

Love your 1938 Ford Standard Tudor Sedan. It is just a pity that this body style was not available in Australia. Your car is an early production model, as Ford added extra Chrome Trim to the Grille and sides on later models. I also notice the Accessory Headlight Rims to accommodate Sealed Beam Headlights.

[38 coupe]

Regarding the trim: Ford produced standard cars with different trim levels during 1938. At the beginning of production the cars looked like the one in this thread. There was stainless trim in the center of the grill. The belt line was pin stripped and the windshield frame was painted. Pretty soon Ford realized their standard cars looked too plain and added the side trim and stainless windshield trim. At the same time Ford offered a kit to add all the side stainless to the earlier plainer cars. The kit did not include the windshield stainless.

At the Lake Tahoe Grand National there were three 38 standard cars side by side. One car had just the center grill trim, the next car had the side trim but painted windshield, and the third car had all the stainless. I wish I had gotten a picture of them together.

[compyello]

Thank you mercman for the kind words, I am fond of it myself. I hope to return the headlights to the original style sometime.
Thank you 38 coupe. I didn't even notice the painted w/s frame until you mentioned it. Do I need a new radiator or can I just get this one recored? You mention the radiators sit in different locations, is that on the radiator or the frame? Do I need to drill new holes in the frame or is it in the radiator bottom mount?

[compyello]

Thanks for the link as well 38 coupe

[mercman from oz]

38 Coupe, you are in luck, as I took photos of the three 1938 Ford Standards that were on display at Lake Tahoe. You can compare the differences between these three. I hope these pictures help.

[compyello]

Thanks mercman, what is with the fire extinguishers? Any guesses on why the first car only has one driving light?

[petehoovie]

@complello - I think the pictures posted by mercman were taken at the EFV8 Clubs 50th Anniversary event at Lake Tahoe. The fire extinguishers were require there....

[mercman from oz]

The Fire Extinguishers located in front of the left front wheel is standard requirements when displaying vehicles at any event hosted by The Early Ford V8 Club of America. It is a safety aspect, as well as a stipulation in the Insurance Cover for these Events.

[mercman from oz]

These Photos were taken in 2013 at Lake Tahoe. Unfortunately, the three 1938 Ford Standard models were separated by a 1938 Ford Deluxe. However, it is a good comparison shot showing the differences between these two models.

[petehoovie]

The '38 Standard is stunning as compared to the '38 Deluxe. I think Ford had it bass-ackwards for the 1938 model year. They got it right in 1939....

[mercman from oz]

This picture is from the Forum comparing the 1938 Ford Deluxe with the 1939 Ford Standard. All very interesting. for more information, check it out at:- https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=185153

[38 coupe]

Originally Posted by compyello

Do I need a new radiator or can I just get this one recored? You mention the radiators sit in different locations, is that on the radiator or the frame? Do I need to drill new holes in the frame or is it in the radiator bottom mount?

You need a different radiator. The radiator sits further forward in the frame on the 85 hp setup. My memory is the 60 hp frames had the 85 hp radiator location and an add on bracket for the 60 hp radiator. You really need the 38-39 book for details like this. My book is packed in a box some where since I just moved so I can't look for you. Your radiator probably is already sitting in the 85 hp location. That is why the top tank sits too far forward right now.

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

38 Coupe, you are in luck, as I took photos of the three 1938 Ford Standards that were on display at Lake Tahoe. You can compare the differences between these three. I hope these pictures help.

Thank you very much, I have saved copies of your pictures.