Is this an ok radiator?

[WABOOM]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123534668314

Looking at a new radiator for my 51 Mercury. Any chance these are good?

[Robz51]

Sounds too cheap to be a good one.
Rob

[Robz51]

Try Walker or US radiator. Both made in USA
Rob

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by WABOOM

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123534668314

Looking at a new radiator for my 51 Mercury. Any chance these are good?

Don't know where you're located but in SoCal there is the Radiator Lady that sells from what I've told good quality aluminum radiators. She'll probably be at the Father's Day meet in Pomona.



www.theradiatorlady.com

• 20910 Grand Ave, Wildomar, CA 92595
• (951) 219-4707

[Willit Stop]

I just installed a Champion in my other ride. The fit was perfect and the tanks were polished.It came with a 16 lb. cap though. I swapped it out for a 7.

[WABOOM]

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Originally Posted by Willit Stop

I just installed a Champion in my other ride. The fit was perfect and the tanks were polished.It came with a 16 lb. cap though. I swapped it out for a 7.

That's awesome. I guess I have to ask the obvious question...does it run cool?

[tubman]

I think I've seen that you visit the H.A.M.B. (or maybe somebody with an identical avatar). Do a search over there as there has been a lot of discussion about aluminum radiators. I've looked some of the threads over out of curiosity, and I get the general impression that these aluminum radiators are just fine (if you can accept the looks). It seems some vendors are better than others, so a little research may be in order.

[FortyNiner]

I installed a Champion in my project 46. While I haven't run to operating temperature yet, the fit and workmanship seem quite good.

[drolston]

I put a Champion aluminum radiator in my '41. It fit perfectly and looks good. But I have had problems with overheating in traffic on hot days. Block was cleaned during overhaul. Timing is advanced. Changed to Dennis Carpenter water pumps which are supposed to flow better at idle; no noticeable improvement. Installed a spacer to get the fan closer to the radiator and put on a (partial) shroud; no help. Fabricated a baffle to keep air from going over the radiator; better on the road but not in traffic. Put in Subaru 170 degree thermostats, which open wider than stock units; no help.

The good news is that they are relatively cheap. Try the Champion and see how it works for your installation.

[19Fordy]

Gee, I wish you lived closer. I saved the radiator from my 51 Merc. and would sell it to you for $75 . My Merc ran cool. It had a standard transmission. That Champion price is very low. Wonder where it's made?
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...rcury+radiator

Here's one pretty near you for sale.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...rcury+radiator

Here's some comments from HAMB re: Champion.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...y-good.558686/

[leon bee]

A lot of heated disagreement on the boards about these. I put one of those Champions in my 50 Ford. Mine was $204 shipped, fit perfectly, works perfectly so far- cools so well thought I was going to have to put cardboard in front before it got warm.

I can't hardly drive around looking for a real radiator shop for $204.

[leon bee]

Fordy: They're all made in China, unless they claim otherwise.

[Sod Buster]

I just put one in my 47, haven't had a problem with it, fit and finish was good, I would replace all the rubber pads under it, the money saved bought a lot of other parts, lol.

[Royal Ryser]

I don't own a 51 Merc any more, so I'll just add my opinion. My preference is to always use original parts when possible. If there is a good radiator shop near to you, a couple of considerations would be to have your radiator repaired/restored, or to buy a good original and have the same done to it. A properly done old radiator, showing no damage (tubes broken etc) should be good for many years use. It will be properly sized and will look right.

Now, I am going to my shop to remove the top tank, and rod out the original radiator on my 56 t-bird. There is no radiator shop within 50-60 miles of here and the rodding process is not difficult (I've done 2 before.)

Good luck.

[Dave Castle]

I have used Champion radiators on 3 projects, very happy with the product !

[TJ]

It's the old adage, "you get what you pay for".

[Dave Castle]

Originally Posted by TJ

It's the old adage, "you get what you pay for".

Quality aluminum radiators have come way down in price over the years, I've had very good luck with them.

[Tinker]

Had a recore on my 38t about 7-8yrs ago. They did a very nice job using the old 80 plus upper/lower tanks. I have a small winter leak. Get a few drops now that the fan blows out every spring now. Other then that, all is well. Best to my knowledge walker is damn good. Next one will have to be maybe, or I need to skill up on brazing and radiator repair.


Not a fan of new alumin rads, electric fans, or alternators on flatheads. But I've never been in a popular crowd either.


WaBoom, if it fits and you don't mind the look, I'd try it. Later 50s fords had more issues with the rad support rotting out before anything. Earlier fords, everything (sheetmetal) mounts off the radiator. So it's best to get it right.




.

[WABOOM]

Just wanted to update this thread. I got the Champion radiator in and the there is a design flaw. The top tank is offset towards the engine instead of towards the front and it leave a big gap for air escape over the radiator instead of thru the core. I talked to the president of Champion and he said they won't be changing the design.

[tubman]

As long as the radiator looks so different than a stocker, what would be the problem with fabricating a sheet metal cover for that area?

[19Fordy]

WABOOM: Too bad you can't send it back as not being made to OEM specs.

[leon bee]

I guess on a $200 radiator my criteria would be, and was; Can I get it hooked up? Will it hold water? and Will it cool?

[WABOOM]

I did have to make an air dam. I made it out of angle iron. Here's a pic

[drolston]

Originally Posted by drolston

I put a Champion aluminum radiator in my '41. It fit perfectly and looks good. But I have had problems with overheating in traffic on hot days. Block was cleaned during overhaul. Timing is advanced. Changed to Dennis Carpenter water pumps which are supposed to flow better at idle; no noticeable improvement. Installed a spacer to get the fan closer to the radiator and put on a (partial) shroud; no help. Fabricated a baffle to keep air from going over the radiator; better on the road but not in traffic. Put in Subaru 170 degree thermostats, which open wider than stock units; no help.

The good news is that they are relatively cheap. Try the Champion and see how it works for your installation.

Update on my earlier post. Since then I scrapped the Champion and went to a four row brass/copper radiator, which works great under really stressful conditions of high heat and speed. I could never get the Champion to cool well enough on 90+ days. Tried every trick in the book (better pumps, water wetter, shroud, baffles, timing, richer mixture) but it still overheated badly at idle and at speeds over 60, on hot days. Also one of the mounting ears broke off.

It might work for you if your engine is stock and you don't get stuck in traffic or climb long hills on hot days.

[19Fordy]

WABOOM: Your angled piece looks great and will work fine. Good job. Keep us updated on how well the new radiator cools.

[bobH]

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I don't see that anyone has posted issues with electrolysis... I was losing radiators at the rate of about one per year in a 96 Bronco. Except towards the end of my aluminum experience, when the rate reduced to about one per 3 months. The Bronco went through a LOT of aluminum radiators. Then, I had a custom brass radiator made, and no more problems for several years now.
On the other hand, I have an aluminum radiator in another one of my vehicles, a cheapo from JEGS. It's been there for many years, and has never given any trouble.

[19Fordy]

Use these strips to periodically check PH and then add suitable additives along with distilled water.
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/hyd...yABEgLkBfD_BwE

[WABOOM]

What ph is ideal?

[Charlie ny]

WABOOM......Good luck , I'm sure glad you painted the rad. Lots of guys run alum but religiously keep an eye on the ph. Most use the orange anti freeze. Today's rads are
all alum with plastic tanks.
Charlie ny

[19Fordy]

Here's some Ph info..
https://community.cartalk.com/t/antifreeze-ph/55902
and
https://tomdwyer.com/2010/car-information/coolant-ph/

Some say you can check coolant Ph with a digital multimeter but,others say accuracy is debatable as a special multimeter is needed. Here's a video yo can try just for comparison.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-gceYx_3RE

I also add No-Rosion
https://www.norosion.com/tech_coolant.htm

[tubman]

Originally Posted by WABOOM

What ph is ideal?

7 is neutral.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by WABOOM

What ph is ideal?

7 is neutral. Not acidic or alkaline.

[WABOOM]

Originally Posted by tubman

7 is neutral. Not acidic or alkaline.

But do we know that 7 is the target ph for coolant?

[keith oh]

As long as the ph stays 7.0, neurtal it can't react with anything. As soon as you add additives, unless they are neutral, things change. Nitrozene tape is the easiest and cheapest way to test fluids. Available at drug stores.

[keith oh]

Hydrion ph test is the trade name for the ph tape

[rotorwrench]

Aluminun used for structural applications is mostly 2024-T3 alloy but it doesn't weld well. The 1100 alloy is likely what is used to fabricate these since it is easily welded and it's mostly just aluminum. The magnesium aluminum alloys are better for welding but it takes some processes for normalization that would make it expensive to use for a radiator.

Structurally aluminum has to be pretty thick to form a good beefy structure to take vibrations well. There is also the corrosion factor. It should have coolant that will lessen the corrosion factor as is available for modern aluminum radiators. Aluminum radiators are a one shot deal. You can't easily disassemble one for cleaning or recore since they are not designed to do so. When they don't work you throw them in the recycle pile and buy another one.

The aluminum radiators don't cool any better than the old brass and copper units. They look funky and they don't always fit well. If a person doesn't mind all that then go for it.

JAMCO used to have a good product and they are relatively reasonable. The one I bought for my AV8 is real nice and it's the short 32 Ford type to fit the 32 grill shell on a 29 model A. You might think about that one for a Merc with flathead V8.
https://www.jamcosuspension.com/prod...productID/2449