Installing a 32' Roadster Body

[Ian1932]

I know this is a vague question...Im just looking for good info on this i might overlook.

If you were going to install a roadster body and firewall what would you make sure was completed before you would do this? I have a rolling chassis and everything is painted. Is there anything i wont be able to do after the body is in place?

[35fordtn]

Fuel Line!!
While im sure it could be done with the body on, but if you are using the correct copper plated steel line, it can be a bear to work with and would be easier beforehand, at least on the 33-up cars anyways. I have never installed a 1932 Body but I would imagine the same would hold true.

[Bored&Stroked]

I'd have everything done on the chassis that I can possibly do. It would be a full roller, all lines, all wiring to the rear and from the steering box to the front, etc.. It is a lot easier when you can crawl around the chassis - than once you put the body on. Also, make sure you get good quality welting for under the body and also check all your body mounting locations. I can't remember if a stock 32 frame uses "cage nuts" - but clean/tap all of them if it does and know that they are in good shape. Also, paint/protect the underside of your roadster body - you want to complete all of that stuff and protect it for the future. I'd also install the gas tank (before you run the lines).

[DavidG]

The fuel/air line as Michael mentions and the tail lamp wiring as Bored&Stroked mentioned plus the exhaust system. Installing the gas tank on a '32-'34 passenger car chassis before the body is not advisable in my opinion, as it gets in the way of a normal post-production body drop and it is easy to install once the body is in place. (It is a must after the '34s.)

This assumes that you will be installing the body after at least the rear axle and torque tube are installed and that your brake system is in place on the chassis, including the pedals. While I normally install the engine and transmission after the body is in place, that's a function of my process and I recommend that you consider installing the engine and transmission before the body as the installation will be easier and you can easily install the engine compartment wiring once the firewall is in place. In any event, install your steering gear box and column shaft before installing the engine as there is very little clearance to install it after the engine is installed.

My experience with numerous '32 phaeton and roadster bodies is that it is far better to install the firewall on the frame before the body is installed, including the instrument panel (without the choke and throttle controls and the dash light switch knob installed) and also to install the dash to the body cowl before mating the two. It can be a real challenge to install the dash after the body is installed given the close proximity of the instrument panel and the tuck under of the cowl sheet metal.

Also install your cowl vent before installing the body as it is hard to reach once the body and instrument panel are in place.

That pretty well covers it.

[Ian1932]

Firewall and gas tank are just sitting there...

[35fordtn]

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David has installed more 32 bodies than most anyone out there, and his response proves such. Little details like installing the cowl vent first I wouldn’t have thought of.

[deuce_roadster]

The Sorenson video of the 1st body (Victoria) coming down being mated to the frame after Henry stamps the 18-I shows a worker dealing with the handle for the vent like the spring was not on.

[DavidG]

Correct, the spring should not be installed at that point of the body installation as it will not properly clear that which is behind the instrument panel. Good point.


The phaetons and roadsters are the only '32 bodies where it is highly recommended to have the instrument panel and dash in place when installing the body on the chassis frame. With all of the others, that can be left for after the body is installed. However, it takes to people or one with seriously long arms to install the instrument panel fasteners once the body is in place.

[V8COOPMAN]

I must need to get out just a bit more often, 'cuz that is the first chassis on a "serious" '32 that I remember ever seeing painted brown. DD

[Ian1932]

[QUOTE=V8COOPMAN;1821622]I must need to get out just a bit more often, 'cuz that is the first chassis on a "serious" '32 that I remember ever seeing painted brown. DD



LOL...I know its "poop brown" as the guys at work call it, lol...This car im doing just like my Dad wanted it done. This picture is closest i could find. I think though its going look look pretty good when its done...I can later make this a stock look without to much effort later. The 5w coupe will be spot on stock colors w/Brewster green body with apple green wheels...

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

David has installed more 32 bodies than most anyone out there, and his response proves such. Little details like installing the cowl vent first I wouldn’t have thought of.

Honestly, I love this site because of the help from everyone, but, David takes it to whole new level. I probably have no business even working on these cars as everything i need to do im doing for the first time...I have no idea what to do or how this goes together. I didnt have a complete car to take a part so you can imagine what goes on in my head...He always takes the time to write this big long thing and point everything out! You can tell he knows more than anyone on the planet about these cars, his information is solid as rock! I swear, when i started this car i could only tell a 32' from the grill shell...If you took the shell off i wouldnt be sure what it was...

[35fordtn]

Everyone has to have there first go around at some point, we are lucky that for guys like David, that their first go around was 50 years ago and they are willing to share their extensive knowledge. If you own the v-8 club’s 1932 Ford book (hopefully you do) in the first few pages you’ll see a VERY young David taking his first ride in first his restoration which wasn’t complete at the time of the drive and from the appearance of the photo it may not have even had a seat in it. I smile every time in see that picture in the book knowing we all have had that same anxious day for the first drive.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Everyone has to have there first go around at some point, we are lucky that for guys like David, that their first go around was 50 years ago and they are willing to share their extensive knowledge. If you own the v-8 club’s 1932 Ford book (hopefully you do) in the first few pages you’ll see a VERY young David taking his first ride in first his restoration which wasn’t complete at the time of the drive and from the appearance of the photo it may not have even had a seat in it. I smile every time in see that picture in the book knowing we all have had that same anxious day for the first drive.

Yes, i do have the books! I have everything ready to put this together...The thing that is going to kill me know are the pedals and mounting, electrical, ignition, where the stuff goes and how it mounts. I really need up close color pics of a rolling chassis with exhaust. Up close pics of the "K" member area with everything attached...more pics for fun. I love body work and painting cause thats all i know about...Now assembly...lol

[Bored&Stroked]

Given the level of detail and quality of the work that I can see in the photos, I'd complete the chassis before I put the body on. I'd put the engine/transmission in and I'd even complete the exhaust system. There is no reason to do this stuff afterwards, when you can do it now. Also, complete ALL the brake system - as running the lines and getting everything tidy is a lot of work (especially if you don't have a lift). If you don't have a complete brake system, I highly recommend and I'll say that twice . . . I highly recommend the Early V8 Garage and Richard Lacy. There is nobody that makes more complete and awesome brake systems than he does. Yes, it is not cheap, but his parts, craftsmanship and level of completeness is not rivaled by anybody else in the business. Lastly - you have a fantastic project/car . . . very glad to see that you are honoring what your Father wants - that makes me smile!

[Bored&Stroked]

Question: In looking at your photos, I spied a couple things in the front-end that are a bit strange.

1) The front axle has been dropped - though it appears to be a later axle - maybe a 33-34, doesn't look like a 32. (No big deal, has nothing to do with safety or use).
2) I saw a couple photos where the driver's side of the front wishbone looks to have a major kink/bend in it?? If what I see is correct, then it should be corrected. Maybe that wishbone was used with some later engine conversion (some big OHV V8) - but it should not be that way for an original flathead and I'd question the geometry of the front end as such. In my mind, this needs to be addressed.

Here is the picture I'm talking about:

32Wishbone.jpg

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Question: In looking at your photos, I spied a couple things in the front-end that are a bit strange.

1) The front axle has been dropped - though it appears to be a later axle - maybe a 33-34, doesn't look like a 32. (No big deal, has nothing to do with safety or use).
2) I saw a couple photos where the driver's side of the front wishbone looks to have a major kink/bend in it?? If what I see is correct, then it should be corrected. Maybe that wishbone was used with some later engine conversion (some big OHV V8) - but it should not be that way for an original flathead and I'd question the geometry of the front end as such. In my mind, this needs to be addressed.

Here is the picture I'm talking about:

Attachment 412753

So, My dad was originally going to put a chevy v8 in the coupe. This was modified on purpose. He thinks he did that to clear the starter. He doesnt remember...Im not sure about the axle. He had the rear end of the coupe axle tubes flipped over so the spring perch was on the bottom and the shock mount cut off. I have an unmodified wish bone but im going to use in on the coupe which is now going to be a stock car. The wish bone fit like a glove and clearly had welds where is was cut and had a pc added to account for the bend. If i had another one i would have used it but you really wont see it anyway. I saved all the best stock stuff for the coupe and had most of it sandblasted already stashed in their game room. He did these things years ago when everyone wanted tube shocks and big chevy...

[deuce_roadster]

Maybe to clear the oil filter, but the starter on a chev engine in on the other side.

[DavidG]

A minor thing, but judging from your photos you are planning to use an original front license plate bracket as it is already painted and ready to go. When installed on the front cross tube it would normally end up vertical, but your front cross tube needs to be removed and rotated 180 degrees so that the hole in the center of the tube is vertical for proper mounting of the license plate bracket.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

A minor thing, but judging from your photos you are planning to use an original front license plate bracket as it is already painted and ready to go. When installed on the front cross tube it would normally end up vertical, but your front cross tube needs to be removed and rotated 180 degrees so that the hole in the center of the tube is vertical for proper mounting of the license plate bracket.

Yeah, its not bolted in...Its just hangin there. Just set some things on it to see what it looks like..And, David, tomorrow im going take some pictures of exhaust pcs. I have new muffler and some pipes that are new. Maybe you can determine what i should try to use. Also, i have the books, but, im trying to get an upclose picture of the "k" mender with all the "gizmos" attached. Do you have a good picture of that? Its hard to see if the book because i cant zoom in. Thanks for all your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[glennpm]

Hi Ian,

Beautiful prep work and informative instructions here!

I did notice that you have 37-41 spindles I think with an after market "hairpin" steering arm. I had originally planned doing the same. I changed my mind after searching on "bump steer" and whether this arrangement could be a geometry error. I bought kingpins from Richard Lacy and talked to him about the steering arm. He highly suggested using the 32 spindle which I also had.


http://www.earlyv8garage.net/


I've put a few thread quotes below and a picture of my 32 stock spindle with 40 backing plates. As a minimum you will need a shorter drag link. Speedway sells them to a length you can specify.

Quote from Richard here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/.../#post-8018947


"We highly recommend using the original spindles on 32-36's. It is especially important on 32-34's because the aftermarket steering arms are made incorrectly and always have been, which results in the original draglink being about 3/4" too long, which in turn causes the geometry to be incorrect AND when the steering gear is on high center, the vehicle will be making a left turn!!!"

Another thread with good explanations , https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30373

"rb-- i don`t know of any steering arm that is made correctly today or in the last 70 years with the correct offset. it amazes me that manufacturers and hot rod shops don`t realize that the steering arms they are making and installing are made wrong. it would be so simple to make them right. obviously they don`t test their designs or installations. adjustable draglinks and clocking pitman arms will connect the steering box but it won`t correct the geometry and will turn more turns in one direction from center. the center cannot be changed because of the high spot in steering box. this makes it steer tighter in the straight ahead position. the only proper fix is to bend the after market steering arm forward the same amount that all stock 28-34 spindle arms come from the factory"

"RB, to expand on what Barry is saying the arm on the stock spindle is forward of the axle so that the intersection of the arm and the drag link form a 90* angle with the wheels pointed straight ahead. That is the geometry Barry spoke of that allows equal steering in both directions. As far as the stock arm raising when you turn left that's happening because of the caster setting on the axle.
I don't really know about the stock spring loaded d/l ends but I can say from experience that if a side steer d/l, with tie rod ends or even Heim joints, moves up and down on the same plane as the radius rods (wishbone, split 'bone, four bar) the bump steer is negligible"


Glenn