steering box

[Faro]

Loose steering search has brought me to the steering box as ''the'' culprit. A kit was bought to replace gaskets and other parts, non of which tightened up the steering. The assembly (tie rods etc) are all tight.
Which leaves the worm gear inside the box. Right?
All suggestions are appreciated.
'48 Merc 4dr sedan

[alchemy]

You should probably be able to narrow down the looseness by tightening the sector adjuster bolt. If that doesn't make a difference, I'd say the worm, sector roller, worm bearings, or sector bushings are worn. Or maybe a combo of all of them. You really won't know until you remove it and take it apart.

Good news is all those potential worn out parts are available in repro.

[jimvette59]

It seams the steering box needs a total rebuild. Gaskets etc. doesn't cut it.

[NealinCA]

Here is a good place to start...

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...tmt1937-48.htm

Worm and Roller Type Steering Gear

Worm Shaft End Play

Check by turning steering wheel one turn to right, secure wheel, shake front wheels (drag link must be disconnected). Check movement of steering wheel hub on column jacket. If endplay is perceptible make adjustments.

The end play in the steering column shaft is controlled by shims and the body (Figure A). To take up worm shaft end play, loosen the 4 housing cover screws about 1/8" and remove top shim. The housing cover should not be removed completely because there is danger of the bearings falling out of place. The shims can be pulled out one at a time after the housing cover screws have been loosened enough to drop the cover 1/8". Tighten cover screws and check adjustment. The shaft should be free to turn with no perceptible drag yet have no end movement.

Cross Shaft End Play

Check by turning steering wheel to center position (turn wheel back 1/2 the total number of turns from either end-stop or place marked spoke straight up or straight down). Shake the steering wheel at ball end. If play or backlash exceeds1/32", adjust the cross shaft (roller shaft) position as follows:

To adjust cross shaft end play:

1) Turn the steering wheel to the center position of its travel (drag link disconnected).

2) Remove the lock nut and plate (Figure B) from the roller shaft adjusting screw and turn the roller shaft adjusting screw just enough to remove excess play from between the roller teeth and worm. Check this by the amount of play felt at the pitman arm. It is better to leave a slight amount of play at this point than to tighten too much.

3) Replace the plate and lock nut with the plate in the locked position against the roller shaft cover and tighten the lock nut.

4) Turn the steering wheel past the center position of its travel in both directions to see that the adjustment is not too tight. Wheel should turn freely without stiffness at any point.

5) Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position and the steering wheel in the center position of its travel. Adjust the drag link so that it is exactly the right length to connect the pitman arm and steering arm without changing the position of either the front wheels or the steering wheel

6) Connect the drag link to the pitman arm and steering arm

[Faro]

Adjustments have been tried by 3 garages, no results. Who offers repro parts for these? Have already tried Carpentier, Early fords.
If I do a rebuild, probably don't need new gaskets?

Grateful for all these opinions,

[swedishsteel]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Recently learned of Lares Corporation in Cambridge MN. Will "work on any steering system ever made". Last week took a power steering pump off an old IH dump truck to them, had it rebuilt in two days. Realize you are in Canada, but wanted to inform everyone.

[Faro]

Thanks, will check them out.

[1952henry]

Blue top Steering in Stanton, ND is another rebuilder. He does steering boxes for a Ford restorer (not at liberty to name names) whose restorations have won Dearborn awards.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Faro

Adjustments have been tried by 3 garages, no results. Who offers repro parts for these? Have already tried Carpentier, Early fords.
If I do a rebuild, probably don't need new gaskets?

Grateful for all these opinions,

Do you understand that GASKETS have to do with some clearances? DD
.

[Faro]

OOPS! Sorry about my misleading statement on gaskets. I already have new gaskets, and a few other things from a rebuild kit previously bought and installed.
Having all this reviewed next week by a mechanic.
I see also you're doing a lot of nice work; enjoy V

[Faro]

Recently completed update on my '48 Merc. Complete steering box rebuild in 202/. Plus, new Master cylinder, and complete Mercury 114 name plate (this is a Canadian model) and moldings on trunk lid.
Thanks to all who responded.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Faro

Recently completed update on my '48 Merc. Complete steering box rebuild in 202/. Plus, new Master cylinder, and complete Mercury 114 name plate (this is a Canadian model) and moldings on trunk lid.
Thanks to all who responded.

[Andy]

A quick visual check of a steering box is to check how much of the sector adjusting screw has been turned down. Short screw means worn box.
A steering box should be tight in the center then get looser as it moves off center.
When worn, the center tightness gets broader and it finally will loose in the center and tighter off center.

[Jet96]

That's a good tip on the screw length.