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Old 06-22-2017, 07:37 PM   #1
glenn in camino
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Default E vapo rust

Tell me about this product. Will it disolve the rust in my block
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Old 06-22-2017, 08:05 PM   #2
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Default Re: E vapo rust

Yes, but don't buy evapo rust at $30/gallon. Buy Rust911 which is a concentrate at $60 for enough to make 16 gallons. You can do the math. It doesn't leave a residue either, just black water from the carbon in the rust.
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Old 06-22-2017, 09:09 PM   #3
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Default Re: E vapo rust

Rust911 might be the same as evapo rust in as such any grease or oil will kill what makes it work.
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Old 06-23-2017, 05:43 AM   #4
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Default Re: E vapo rust

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Originally Posted by glenn in camino View Post
Tell me about this product. Will it disolve the rust in my block
I have used it for carburetors and other small parts, not on large parts like an engine block. It reusable, it works great, 3 gallons will cost you about 60$ It will not harm iron only rust! Safe for other metals like copper, brass, stainless, etc!
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:13 AM   #5
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Default Re: E vapo rust

How about gas tanks?
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:56 AM   #6
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How about gas tanks?
I know some guys have used these products on their tanks, so I am only going to share my experiences. Originally on the inside of the tanks, there was a very thin coating called Terne. When we open tanks, what find is it is worn thru in some areas (which is where the concentration of rust is) but you also will see rust that has crept under the edges of that Terne coating. I only have the experience of one tank to compare to but I had a customer bring us a tank that he had soaked with the Evaporust for a week, and the issue he had was he was still getting small rust particles when he took it to a car wash to flush it out.

Most tank sealers will do a decent job if you can get ALL areas inside the tank coated, -and if ALL of the rust is gone so the coating can adhere well over time. What I don't know is whether the Evaporust just doesn't get under the edges around where the Terne finish is (-but has rust forming under) or whether the Terne and the Evaporust just don't mix. Sometimes the hot caustic soak will dissolve the Terne finish but most of the time it takes media-blasting to erode away the Terne finish to get to clean metal everywhere inside the tank.


And to answer Glenn's question, yes it does work on the inside of a cylinder block. We do it immediately after each block that comes out of our hot caustic tank. We have a livestock watering bucket that has a small heating element that is used for keeping the water from freezing when it is in the barn. This works well at keeping the bacteria in the Evaporust more aggressive. I'd say you could do the same with a block by filling it and then placing a floodlight or heat lamp close to the block to add a little heat.
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:09 AM   #7
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Default Re: E vapo rust

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Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C View Post
Most tank sealers will do a decent job if you can get ALL areas inside the tank coated, -and if ALL of the rust is gone so the coating can adhere well over time. What I don't know is whether the Evaporust just doesn't get under the edges around where the Terne finish is (-but has rust forming under) or whether the Terne and the Evaporust just don't mix. Sometimes the hot caustic soak will dissolve the Terne finish but most of the time it takes media-blasting to erode away the Terne finish to get to clean metal everywhere inside the tank.
I did a gas tank a few weeks ago on a 28 with the tank in the car. The key to a good job was getting the stuff everywhere inside the tank. If you are doing it on a tank installed in the car the problem is that the stuff won't reach the top of the tank where much rust is unless you do something special. Filling the tank up leaves most of the top of the tank dry as the filler neck is not at the top of the tank even when completely full. I made an extension to the filler neck out of a radiator hose so I could get the tank completely filled. Then I used a tube to suck out the trapped air in the tank. I verified with an inspection camera that the top of the tank was covered. May not be as good as ripping the tank open/blasting/welding but it is much less invasive. You need a good 10+ gallons of the stuff which is not so expensive with rust991 at $40 vs name brand evaporust at $300!

Don't believe there is bacteria in the stuff. It is EDTA: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (or ethylenediaminetetraacetate). A synthetic amino acid (or acid salt) that acts as a chelating agent for many divalent metal ions,.
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:27 AM   #8
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Default Re: E vapo rust

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Don't believe there is bacteria in the stuff. It is EDTA: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (or ethylenediaminetetraacetate). A synthetic amino acid (or acid salt) that acts as a chelating agent for many divalent metal ions,.

I thought it did but maybe not. I recalled the salesman coming to tell me it did, -and I looked on their website (https://www.evaporust.com/evapo-rust-rust-remover) and downloaded this. In reading it, maybe it is saying that bacteria forms because of it. I dunno, but here is what they say;

Evapo-rust shelf life and use life

EVAPO-RUST has an indefinite shelf life* and can be used over and over until it absolutely stops working. Only water is lost to evaporation. EVAPO-RUST has a tremendous work load. One gallon can remove 1/2 pound of pure dry rust. Rust is about 1/17 the weight of iron by volume, which means its workload is substantial. On average, one gallon de-rusts up to 300 pounds of light to moderately rusted steel. As the iron is removed from the iron oxide, carbon from the rust is released. Some parts may have a black film after using EVAPO-RUST. High carbon steel and tool alloy steel items, when de-rusted, will have a darker appearance. The carbon can be removed simply by wiping with a cloth when rinsing with water. The more you de-rust, the blacker the solution becomes. EVAPO-RUST is spent when it is pitch black and no longer performs.


*Shelf life is for un-opened product. Once opened, The life of the bath will vary due to biodegradability (bacteria introduced into the solution). After using Evapo-Rust, it is better to cover the solution, but still allow air to the bath. Pouring the solution back into a sealed container will allow the anaroebic bacteria to begin the degredation process. Used, open baths have continued to operate for over a 12 month period.
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:40 AM   #9
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Default Re: E vapo rust

"On average, one gallon de-rusts up to 300 pounds of light to moderately rusted steel."

In my experience it de-rusts maybe 30 pounds on the high side. 300 pounds is beyond belief.
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:11 PM   #10
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Default Re: E vapo rust

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Originally Posted by glenn in camino View Post
Tell me about this product. Will it disolve the rust in my block
IMO, yes it works as advertised. Your opinion, as to how well it works, may differ from mine/others.

911-rust also works and I just emptied it from my B engine yesterday. I used ONE 16 oz bottle mixed with 2 gal of water. Couple/few days after installing and running engine, I drained blackened coolant from block.

I've used both products and from the standpoint of 'cleaning a block' alone, I'd use the 911 rust product from now on. This opinion is based on cost difference, convenience of getting a container for one job only and clean out.
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:25 PM   #11
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Default Re: E vapo rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtexas View Post
I did a gas tank a few weeks ago on a 28 with the tank in the car. The key to a good job was getting the stuff everywhere inside the tank. If you are doing it on a tank installed in the car the problem is that the stuff won't reach the top of the tank where much rust is unless you do something special. Filling the tank up leaves most of the top of the tank dry as the filler neck is not at the top of the tank even when completely full. I made an extension to the filler neck out of a radiator hose so I could get the tank completely filled. Then I used a tube to suck out the trapped air in the tank. I verified with an inspection camera that the top of the tank was covered. May not be as good as ripping the tank open/blasting/welding but it is much less invasive. You need a good 10+ gallons of the stuff which is not so expensive with rust991 at $40 vs name brand evaporust at $300!

Don't believe there is bacteria in the stuff. It is EDTA: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (or ethylenediaminetetraacetate). A synthetic amino acid (or acid salt) that acts as a chelating agent for many divalent metal ions,.
Wow, '10+ gal of rust911 at $40' ! Could you give me details of where to buy at that amount/cost ?
I just bought 16 oz (pint ?) of 911-rust for $24. and change. Mixed per instructions, with gal/8oz, I got two mixed gallons for block cleaning use.
Your source/deal sounds much better for my $ !

Last edited by hardtimes; 06-23-2017 at 01:26 PM. Reason: .............
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:25 PM   #12
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Default Re: E vapo rust

Once you have filled the gas tank with 911-rust and drained(through gas shut off valve hole, with shut off valve removed) should the tank be re sealed with something?

Also when filling block with 911-rust and running engine, is there a concern that the process will clog the radiator?
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:32 PM   #13
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Default Re: E vapo rust

It is interesting that anerobic bacterial contamination results in a shorter shelf life for Evapo-Rust and other EDTA based products. I wasn't aware of that. and will leave the cap off from now on.

Brent's original reference to bacterial action would be correct if he was thinking of that other non-caustic rust removal process that is based on marinating the ferruginous part in a solution of feed-grade molasses mixed with water. This takes time and warm temperatures, ideally above 90 degrees F. The mixture creates an environment favored by a variety of bacteria that remove the rust as a by-product of a metabolic process. Google it - it looks to be very effective although leaving a nasty smelling stew behind after the shiny part is removed. Feed grade molasses is cheap.
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:34 PM   #14
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Default Re: E vapo rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by HalcyonDays View Post
Once you have filled the gas tank with 911-rust and drained(through gas shut off valve hole, with shut off valve removed) should the tank be re sealed with something?

Also when filling block with 911-rust and running engine, is there a concern that the process will clog the radiator?
Regarding answer about radiator;
After draining black liquid/coolant from my B engine, I put a light into radiator and found it to be very clean. When flushing with clean water, I found that the water ran thru the radiator with noticeable unrestricted force indicating it was clean as it looked.
Note that I ran my engine a couple times after installing the de-rust solution. I wanted it to be well distributed/mixed and to be heated. The container instructions give info regarding heat range of product.
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:40 PM   #15
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Default Re: E vapo rust

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Wow, '10+ gal of rust911 at $40' ! Could you give me details of where to buy at that amount/cost ?
I just bought 16 oz (pint ?) of 911-rust for $24. and change. Mixed per instructions, with gal/8oz, I got two mixed gallons for block cleaning use.
Your source/deal sounds much better for my $ !
rust911.com $60 for enough to make 16 gallons
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:42 PM   #16
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Default Re: E vapo rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by HalcyonDays View Post
Once you have filled the gas tank with 911-rust and drained(through gas shut off valve hole, with shut off valve removed) should the tank be re sealed with something?

Also when filling block with 911-rust and running engine, is there a concern that the process will clog the radiator?
Should be sealed with something, yes.

The rust is dissolved. The water is black from the carbon released when the rust dissolves. The process will unclog the radiator.

The concentrate can also be mixed stronger than evaporust to work faster.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:52 PM   #17
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Default Re: E vapo rust

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Originally Posted by ursus View Post
It is interesting that anerobic bacterial contamination results in a shorter shelf life for Evapo-Rust and other EDTA based products. I wasn't aware of that. and will leave the cap off from now on.

Brent's original reference to bacterial action would be correct if he was thinking of that other non-caustic rust removal process that is based on marinating the ferruginous part in a solution of feed-grade molasses mixed with water. This takes time and warm temperatures, ideally above 90 degrees F. The mixture creates an environment favored by a variety of bacteria that remove the rust as a by-product of a metabolic process. Google it - it looks to be very effective although leaving a nasty smelling stew behind after the shiny part is removed. Feed grade molasses is cheap.
RE Evaporust;
The information is on the package and if you call help line they will tell you the same thing. (I did) This is the reason it is safe to dump on the ground.
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Old 06-24-2017, 09:23 AM   #18
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Default Re: E vapo rust

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220292
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