TECH REQUEST: Removing Head Studs From The Block

[KIRK!]

I have done it before with decent success. I'd love to hear/see some tried and true techniques from some "experienced" Ford Barn-ers.

[34fivewindow]

Kirk, i have had good luck using a stud remover, made by snap-on. I like the idea of the tool, grabbing the stud close to the deck of the block. Sometimes heat, and your choice of snake oils are needed.....Ed

[Straightpipes]

I heat the stud and let it cool to room temp. Do it a few times and then usually the metals have seperated enough thru expansion and contraction to turn. Wintergreen or snakeoil helps........

[BILL WZOREK]

I wish I could do pictures! snapon Has a real good stud removal toolset.
It is like a Colet from a lathe but threaded on the inside ,you thread this on to the stud then install the outer portion it has a bolt that you tighten down on to the colet,when tight you use the nut that is part of the outer portion and turn the stud out.
It has not failed me yet,( Should not have said that )it may change my luck.

[flatjack9]

The only thing I've found to work consistently is lots of heat.

[Frank The Plumber]

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Heat it to break down anything that is chemically holding the threads, or oxidation, let it cool to room temp, put your stud extractor attached to it, place it in a freezer overnight, pull it out and go after loosening your bolts, they should have shrunk in the block and the block should have shrunk away from them.

[bobH]

At the risk of sounding like 'sour-grapes'... I broke my snap-on stud remover, twice, working on the same block. Snap-On was 'good' about it, they replaced the parts twice. JMO, but I prefer the heat process described above, then I like an ordinary pipe wrench, if I don't intend to use the same studs again.
Whatever I do, I take great pains to NOT break the studs.
To elaborate a little on what straightpipes posted, I was taught by a guy that works on REALLY old stuff - horseless carriage's - that if you heat it up (a lot), then 'shock' it cold (wet rag - or, just dump water), and repeat the cycle a few times, then the offending fastener will often come out real easily, sometimes without any tools.

[Tim Brown]

Kirk, Tap removal Service in Concord on Cloverdale just did a 59A block for me. He dug out 22 broken studs for me. 22 broken studs that were the result of an over ambitious machine shop worker that had a snap on stud puller tool. They broke their tool also and had to get another one. Why didnt they stop after breaking ten or so....? Mark at Tap Removal Service did a great job at a fair price. I'd go back again...

[KIRK!]

Originally Posted by forever4

Kirk!, try this link (if I can link it)

http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public...tudremoval.htm

Way cool!

[Jeff Norwell]

Very cool!

[Cecil-Indiana]

I've had great success over the years with a Craftsman stud extractor. It works with a cam action up against the stud and hugs the block. I usually soak the studs a week before with PB Blaster. Good luck!

[kelly.ga]

why is the jeff norwell trash on this site. If this is what the barn has come to I won't be coming back.

[Rocky]

I don't have a tig welder but I've removed dozens of busted studs/bolts using my mig welder the same way...works every time.

[Jeff Norwell]

Originally Posted by kelly.ga

why is the jeff norwell trash on this site. If this is what the barn has come to I won't be coming back.

See ya!