I've got a problem...Not any more, thanks to Tom

[MickeyT]

Background: I replaced the steering gear box with a rebuilt and while at it updated the steering column with new levers, upper bushing, new steering wheel , and repaired a crack at the bracket where the lever rods exit the column right above the gear box.

Problem: The spark advance lever can not move the spark advance on the distributor from stop to stop as demonstrated in Les Andrews video on ignition timing. If I turn the column so that full retard hits the stop on the distributor it comes up about a half inch (×/-) short of reaching the full advance stop on the other end. Same thing happens if I move the column so that full advance hits the advanced stop on the distributor. It will be a half inch short of hitting the full retard stop at the opposite end. Any help appreciated.

[Dick M]

Mickey,

Two things to check.

The rod from the steering column to the distributor should be 17 inches long. A different length would cause you a problem.

You may have swapped the control arms on the bottom of the control rods when the steering column was reassembled. The two control arms are different. They only work properly when the correct arm is attached to the rod. Refer to Les Andrews Red Book pages 303 and 309 for pictures of the correct position of the control arms. Hope this helps.

[denniskliesen]

Are you sure you have your rod connected to the correct arm on the column?

The arm for your advance should have the ball end of the arm facing forward and the accelerator arm ball end should be facing towards the firewall. Opposite of each other.

[MickeyT]

Thanks Dick. If you mean the advance pointing down and the throttle pointing up I got those right. It's really crazy because they were worked fine when I started this, though I must admit I did not check the travel until I ran into this problem. Should have never watched that video.

The rod from tip to tip is 17 3/4" long.

Am I wrong that the control arms, as long as they are pointing in the right direction, can only go on the rods one way and that the rods are interchangeable?

[Bob C]

Is it possible the new rods have the holes drilled in the wrong location??

Bob

[MickeyT]

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Possible I guess I did look at that and they look the same

[Tom Wesenberg]

Exactly what part is stopping the motion from going further?

[burner31]

Just need to turn your column a little, loosen the top and bottom clamp and twist the column, should not take much, quick and easy. Tighten lower clamp 1st, then the top.

Opps, didn't read the whole post

[MickeyT]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Exactly what part is stopping the motion from going further?

The lever beneath the steering wheel has hit the end of it's travel.

Just found this over at "ModelAbasics.com"

"Inspection:
When moving the Spark Advance Lever inside the cab, all the way up and/or all the way down, the spark retard arm on the distributor should not make contact with the Upper Distributor Body on either side."

It's the "should not make contact with the Upper Distributor Body" that seems to contradicts Les Andrews video.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Some distributor bodies have the window cut wider by the owner. This is a mistake to do, but maybe that's what happened to your's. Anyway the Model A doesn't need all the 40* travel, as most should never be advance more than about 28*.

[MickeyT]

Thanks Tom. So I should rotate the column enough to put the distributor arm near to the max retard stop on the dist. and let full advance stop wherever the column lever hits it's stop?

[txkhog]

I also believe that you need to check re-check your timing with the advance lever set at the new full retard location.

[Bob C]

Check out page 480 of the Service Bulletins for adjusting the spark rod.

Bob

[abachman3]

Be sure when you check the new position that the fully retarded is actually retarded. It should only be a few degrees retarded, perhaps 7 degrees or so. Then the fully advanced will max out greater than you really need it to anyways.

[Big hammer]

I forgot too tighten the column clamp, talk about running weird :-(

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by MickeyT

Thanks Tom. So I should rotate the column enough to put the distributor arm near to the max retard stop on the dist. and let full advance stop wherever the column lever hits it's stop?

Yes, and pictures of the top plate, distributor opening, and spark lever at retard, and full advance would also help.

[tinkirk]

put a light to it and adjust it when the lever is all the way down, the timing is at 28 BTD
that way you will never give it too much advance while driving!
don't worry where it rides in the cap opening

[jhowes]

tinkirk will have to explain that one . Where do you put t he light???? How do you measure 26*????

[tinkirk]

Originally Posted by jhowes

tinkirk will have to explain that one . Where do you put t he light???? How do you measure 26*????

I have a timing light with a dial on it so, i installed a pointer & marked my front pulley at tdc started the motor and started adjusting to when the lever was all the way down i was at 28 degrees full advance btc that way i no worry of running to much advance
it takes a little time but to me it is will worth the trouble

Terry

[MickeyT]

Tom I was going to send you a PM but thought, no, everyone needs to know....You are the Man!
Moving on to another thing I got going on I decided to install a rebuilt popup ignition. Well that means pulling the distributor and guess what? Someone did cut the opening for the distributor spark advance arm about 3/8 of an inch longer. No wonder I couldn't get the spark lever to move from stop to stop on the distributor. Anyway, thanks. She still fires up on for st crank. As long as one remembers to plug the coil wire back in.