porta power and rear leaf spring: pete in wa.

[wbs]

several posters tout the use of porta powers to stretch rear spring. see pete https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...3114&showall=1 number 68. he shows an adapter but i'm not sure how it is used or even how the porta power is placed in the spring. can any one explain or if pete is watching maybe he could explain. how much movement is needed to removed and replaced shackle. thanks

[denniskliesen]

Does not sound safe. What happens if the seals blow out in the cylinder? Could happen. I just bought one from Bert's in Denver. It's not the expensive one, but it works just fine. Put some antiseize on the threads.

[Jim Brierley]

I use a jack that I think is for a Lincoln Zephyr, it is a type of bumper jack. I slide a short length of water pipe, that I have pinched at one end, to fit under the curl at the spring end. The jack is not a ratchet-type, but will stop at any position. Is this safe? Is installing any leaf spring safe? Just use care and be sure no body parts are in danger. Porta-power might blow a seal??? I sincerely doubt it! If that is your worry, you shouldn't be playing with cars.

[katy]

I use a jack that I think is for a Lincoln Zephyr, it is a type of bumper jack.

Sounds like what we used to call a friction jack.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

Porta-power might blow a seal??? I sincerely doubt it! If that is your worry, you shouldn't be playing with cars.

Would you get under a car with a hydraulic jack? I've seen a lot of hydraulic cylinders fail in use, and I made a living repairing them. Porta power cylinders included.

Here's another thread on spring spreaders.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...3114&showall=1

I'll stick with advice from Model A people that have a lot of experience like Tom Endy that recommended the spreader I bought and used.

[Marvin/TN]

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I have used the same porta power in my body shop for nearly 50 years now and no blown seals. Maybe a china made one but doubt a brand name one would blow a seal, yeah S**t happens but threads also fail.

[KR500]

I agree a porta-power or any hydraulic unit could fail. I personally wrap the spring on a rear with a wrap of chain or if its nicely painted, with two yellow tow straps. I'm more afraid of the center bolt failing and the spring flying apart when the 4 clamp bolts to the frame are undone. I have used the tried and true spring spreader sold thru the vendors as well as a porta-power. and people have questioned why I wrap the spring up tight. I hope they never have to find out why!

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

Does not sound safe. Put some antiseize on the threads.

No, use grease or heavy oil on the threads! Anti-seize is not a lubricant! It is intended for use on stationary threads and bolts that do not move once tightened, to prevent rusting and "seizing". Parts that move, like threads in a spring spreader, need to be lubed.

[wbs]

thanks to all who replied- when wrapping with chain , is it wrapped over the top of spring and under axle? to anyone who witnessed a spring accident, when disaster occurs, what is direction of movement-i guess the spring end would move in toward center, or other? it would be nice to know so that the mechanic could keep out of the way or put up some kind of barrier

[Tom Wesenberg]

The center bolt can be rusted out, so when you remove the 4 nuts on the two large U bolts, the frame can jump up from all the tension of the spring leaves. It happened to me once, and luckily my head was behind the rear crossmember.

Once the spring is removed, it's best to wrap the pack until the center bolt is removed and the leaves are allowed to spread and remove all pressure. This is done with two large C clamps, and if they are made it China.........I'm outta here.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The center bolt can be rusted out, so when you remove the 4 nuts on the two large U bolts, the frame can jump up from all the tension of the spring leaves. It happened to me once, and luckily my head was behind the rear crossmember.

Once the spring is removed, it's best to wrap the pack until the center bolt is removed and the leaves are allowed to spread and remove all pressure. This is done with two large C clamps, and if they are made it China.........I'm outta here.

Would you feel better knowing that those 'center bolts' are also made in ...you know where !!

[denniskliesen]

Yeah, my center bolt was broken before I attempted to remove the whole pack. Leaves were shifted, car was leaning to the driver side and the passenger side bottom 2 leaves were bent upward about 3 inches from the end at about a 30 degree angle. I had to heat them up with a torch to get them straightened out enough to get the spreader to go on safely and stay on. This was the worst job I've had to do to this car since I've owned it from late November 2016. To say the least it was stressful but I took my time and planned and thought out each step. Think safety!! That is why I used a proven and recommended spreader.

[wbs]

thanks again to all who replied- does anyone think that placing a few hundred pounds of weight on area of the center bolt [i dont have a rear seat in my 28 phaeton] to reduce stress on spreader and increase safety of replacing shackles?

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by wbs

thanks again to all who replied- does anyone think that placing a few hundred pounds of weight on area of the center bolt [i dont have a rear seat in my 28 phaeton] to reduce stress on spreader and increase safety of replacing shackles?

I have replaced shackles by the method you say. It is a variant to a method shown in Victor Page's "Model A Ford" book where he puts wooden blocks between the spring ends and the top of the axle - this to allow "spread" of the spring while relieving load on the shackles.

Victor Page used the KRW "spring compressor" which is a ghastly period device of mechanical torture using hooks and a compression screw and to my mind might be wont to "slip" and leave the spring to its own mind.

Instead of the KRW device, I did this the first time by loading the back of my pickup truck with bags of concrete and cement blocks - oh, and a couple of 5 gallon jugs of water. And when the shackles had been changed out a careful reversal of loading to put load to the shackles.

The second time I did this my body was off the frame and I made up a couple of "strongbacks" using a couple of 4x4s with holes through them and allthread and nuts. Thus this second iteration I got closer to the Victor Page method without the risk of slippage. This time I removed the spring entirely from the axle AND from attachment to the frame by the U-bolts.

I say this works - but it is NO WHERE near as convenient as a proper spring compressor/spreader.

Good luck - think about what you're doing and stay out of projectile range while you're doing it if possible.

Joe K

[wbs]

thank you- i learned a lot

[old car guy]

Get the proper spreader tool.rent borrow or outright buy one. Clamp the center section with several clamps,wrap the spring with a safety chain. Mine came off when it was being removed just missed my head and hit the ceiling of the shop, it could have seriously either killed me or screwed me up worse than my wife says I am anyway. Do it right the first time so you can be here to help someone else in the future.