Using a timing light on 6V system- help needed

[Bruce_MO]

I'm trying to check the timing on my stock '53 V8 and I'm using a brand new timing light with the digital readout on the back of the light. I'm getting some very crazy data...idling at 3800-4200rpm, 70 degrees of advance at idle. The instructions that came with the timing light (Sears) say that to hook it up to a 6V car...power it off of a 12v battery and connect the 12v battery to the car with a ground wire. The instructions seem to be for a 6v negative ground, as it says to hook the negative terminal of the battery to a ground on the '53. I've essentially reversed the instructions and have used a battery charger set to 12v to serve as my 12v source, instead of a car battery. I've hooked up the black lead from the charger to the black lead on the timing light, and have connected the red lead from the charger to a) the red lead from the timing light and b) the positive ground strap on the '53.

The timing light seems to be working normally, but the data I'm getting is meaningless. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? Thanks for your help.

[flathead4rd]

Hook your timing light to a 12 volt battery that is not connected to anything else. Hook the third lead to the #1 cylinder wire. That should work.

[Russ/40]

Your generator is sending out high voltage interference to the digital display on your timing light. Use an older non display type of light.

[Butch11443]

Use a battery instead of a charger. Electronics don't work with chargers and follow the instructions.
Butch

[wga]

And a vacuum gauge - at the highest reading , you can back off the timing slightly,
and you should be at the correct setting.

[jdl]

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Originally Posted by Russ/40

Your generator is sending out high voltage interference to the digital display on your timing light. Use an older non display type of light.

The digital timing are great but will not work on your 6 volt Ford. I bought a Actron and the instructions say to use a 12 volt batt on 6 volt cars. won't work! then it said to use a modern non copper coil wire, won't work! then I wrapped the light in alum foil as a shield, won't work! I tried everything I could think of, won't work! tried the light on my modern F150 and it worked fine.
I returned the Actron and got a refund. I use my old 1950's 6/12 timing light and works fine. it would be nice to have a modern digital rpm dial back timing light for my 6 volt Fords, but no luck with this one.

[thirt4]

I found these links to the 6 volt dilema as "enjoyed" by others as well. Good reading, some informative and as usual, some bland.

I now will endeavor to locate a good 6 volt timing light rather than hassle with a spare 12 volt battery always underfoot.
____________________________

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/timinglight.html

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7528-.../dp/B000BSWEHS

http://porsche356registry.org/356talk/1/24853.html

http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.or...?topic=99198.0

[George49Ford]

I use a regular old 12 volt timing lite hooked to the 6 volt battery. Works well enough to see if you mark your timing mark with some white chalk.

[joel]

Question? Is the generator interfering with the digital diplay or inductive pickup? I don't know ; just curious.

[Russ/40]

Interference is with the signal processing to generate the display data. Same problem occurs with a digital voltmeter.

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by Bruce_MO

I'm trying to check the timing on my stock '53 V8 and I'm using a brand new timing light with the digital readout on the back of the light. I'm getting some very crazy data...idling at 3800-4200rpm, 70 degrees of advance at idle. The instructions that came with the timing light (Sears) say that to hook it up to a 6V car...power it off of a 12v battery and connect the 12v battery to the car with a ground wire. The instructions seem to be for a 6v negative ground, as it says to hook the negative terminal of the battery to a ground on the '53. I've essentially reversed the instructions and have used a battery charger set to 12v to serve as my 12v source, instead of a car battery. I've hooked up the black lead from the charger to the black lead on the timing light, and have connected the red lead from the charger to a) the red lead from the timing light and b) the positive ground strap on the '53.

The timing light seems to be working normally, but the data I'm getting is meaningless. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? Thanks for your help.

Use a 12 V battery instead of a charger, and don't reverse the instructions. Connect the red and black timing light leads to the positive and negative 12V battery posts, and run a jumper from the 12V negative to your vehicle's ground, which would be positive on your '53. The anolog Sears adjustable light that I've been using for years came with the above instructions, and works great on my 6V '51.
The only caution is to avoid vehicle contact with a metal case timing light, (when used on a postive gnd system) but most anymore are non-metalic. I also have no digital tune up equipment so I'm not sure about generator interference.

[Bill OH]

Ignition interference could be causing the erroneous display on your timing light. Ignition upsets the display on a digital voltmeter using it on a 38 Ford. If you think it is the generator causing your problem, try disconnecting the field wire at the regulator, remembering that the field in a Ford generator is internally grounded and therefore disconnect the field wire at the regulator and not at the generator to prevent the wire from bouncing off of ground and possibly destroying the regulator. Try the generator route, but I suspect the ignition is the culprit when it comes to the digital display on your timing light.

[Bruce_MO]

Thanks to all for the responses.

Bruce