Installing 40 Rear And Driveshaft

[philipswanson]

When installing the rear end assembly back into my 40, do you guys recommend bolting the torque tube to the rear housing first and then snaking the whole thing through the floorboard above the "X" section or laying the torque tube in position first and snaking the driveshaft through the tube? I was worried about killing the center bearing if I use the second method and get it misaligned. All is stock and the spring and Columbia is installed on the rear end. Thanks!

[Mart]

Assemble the entire rear into a complete unit before putting it back in the car.

[philipswanson]

Originally Posted by Mart

Assemble the entire rear into a complete unit before putting it back in the car.

Am I going to have a problem getting the horn through the floorboard that way?

[Mart]

I don't know.

[V8COOPMAN]

You will invent more new cuss words than your natural number of fingers if you try going that SECOND way. Keeping the assembly raised-up high helps going through that floorboard/crossmember area. Speaking of fingers, be mindful of keeping all of yours attached when trying to stab drive shaft into the U-joint. DD

[19Fordy]

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Philip: This is a bit detailed and perhaps long but, I think details are critical.

I first assembled the whole assembly, including the speedo gear, front torque tube bearing and seal, etc. before installing. Be sure to install speedo gear facing in correct position. I think it would be unwise to first slide in the torque tube thru the X member and then try to align the banjo splines with TT coupler because you don't want to take the chance of damaging those precise fitting TT to banjo bolts, causing a leak. If you marked those bolts and the thread holes you can match them up during assembly.

NOTE:

That's not to say that installing the TT separately couldn't be done. It might be worth a try as it would be very easy to first slide the driveshaft with torque tube thru the X member and at the same time slide the U-joint onto the drive shaft while lifting the end of the TT high or low enough to EASILY slide the coupler onto the banjo spines. It would be essential that the rear end be on a jack so that it could be easily maneurved into position so that there would be PERFECT spline alignment with NO STRESS or misaligment of the banjo bolts. Those bolts should not be used to pull the bango into alignment. Adequate support of the torque tube and banjo during all this is essential as you don't want the entire weight of the rear end to be resting on the driveshaft .


I then placed tapered wood blocks between the X frame and the floor pan to raise the floor pan up to give better clearance for torque tube bell.Don't forget to first remove the bolts that secure the floor pan to the frame on each side of the transmission.

The car was up on jack stands front and rear and the entire assembly was, at first, rolling on the brake drums only. Floor jack was later used to lift rear. I didn't have a helper so it was a bit difficult to both line up the U-joint splines and move the entire rear forward at the same time. Plus, depending on the height of your jack stands and the angle of the torque tube you may find you have to raise the banjo up a little to get the torque tube bell to clear the x frame and the tunnel. I used a piece of metal (an old metal hinge) to get the insertion angle that I needed. The fact that i used a hinge has no bearing on this install.

Don't forget to put the clam shell gaskets in place on the torque tube BEFORE you slide it in place. Otherwise you'll have to repeat the process or cut the gasket. Make sure grease fitting is facing down towards the floor and in correct position. Also, the U-joint/transmission splines are a very snug sliding fit. Keep your fingers clear.

I used a come-a-long and chain to keep a slight amount of " pull pressure" so I could pull rear forward when the splines lined up. Then I could go back inside the car and wiggle the U-joint for splines to line up. When they did, they just slid right in place, effortlessly. Watch your fingers! Do not be tempted to force the splines by putting pipe wrench on the U joint if they don't go. I don't exactly recall but, I may have turned the brake drum by hand to "wiggle" the drive shaft splines.

In fact, at this point, you might be able to install both rear wheels and roll entire assembly forward without worrying about rear falling off the jack! Installing the wheels earlier might even make it easier to slide the torque tube thru the x member. I never thought of that until now. When properly positioned,splines will slide in place. It was a tedious process as I had no helper. I have attached some photos. You can see the chain. If I had a helper I would not have used the come-a-long.

In second to last photo I used a 2 x 4 and a sledge hammer to "gently tap" the rear forward on the jack as the U-joint slid forward onto the transmission output shaft.
This may seem a bit primitive but, I did the best with what I had. Oh, to be young again! Hope this helps someone. JIM

[V8COOPMAN]

PAY ATTENTION to EVERYTHING Jim (19Fordy) says in post #6 above!! DD

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

PAY ATTENTION to EVERYTHING Jim (19Fordy) says in post #6 above!! DD

Thanks V8. It took an hour to put that together. Hope it helps .

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Thanks V8. It took an hour to put that together. Hope it helps .

Borderline "overkill", but I'm really lovin' the safety wire job! DD

[19Fordy]

Yes, true. A bit wordy.
Here's the original OEM safety wiring from 1940 and some ID update improvements.

[Hal Beatty]

Someone that actually knows how to safety wire. Looks good!

[philipswanson]

My son and I fought this thing for four hours today and finally gave up for the day. We got the whole assembly in position but we are having a terrible time getting that front spline to line up. The spring hits its cross member and keeps you from moving to proper alignment. We wedge the spring in with a tire iron, but still won't line up right up front. Thanks for all that input. Now that I am on a break until tomorrow, I will digest it all. I didn't understand the TT to Banjo bolts comment about damaging them and causing a leak?? As long as you replace the gasket, it shouldn't leak, right? Marking the bolts ??? Why?? They are all the same. ??? Are we talking about the bolts in the rear that get safety wired? How are you going to damage those when they are installed?? Question is how to get the front splines lined up??

[glennpm]

Another great writeup Jim!

Glenn

[Mart]

Do you think it might be worth removing the spring, then fitting the axle without the spring and refitting the spring once the axle is in place? It shouldn't be difficult with a spreader in place.

Actually, just having a spreader in place with the spring still attached to the axle would lower the height of it. That in itself might help a little.

Mart.

[19Fordy]

Phillip, I unbolted my spring at the shackles and left it hanging. I did remove the spring spreader. This makes things easier. Gives more room.

Yes, the bolts I am so concerned about are the ones that are safety wired to banjo. It has always been my understanding that those bolts were specially made by Ford with a tight class of fit so that they would not leak. Was also told to never use a tap and die on those threads as you will ruin the tight fit, increasing chance of leaks.

Just clean them a solvent, not a wire wheel or brush.Those bolts are no longer being made by anyone that I know of. I am so neurotic about this that I also stamped each bolt and each hole so that the same bolt would go back in the same hole. I did use Non-hardening Permatex on the threads and gasket surfaces. Not knowing the torques specs on these bolts, I just tightened them up till they were tight.

However, I am quite sure you could use the same bolts in any hole and all would be well as the gasket is in place too.

I think once you remove your rear spring you will have better success as you'll be able to move the rear forward without hitting the cross member. Then, take it slow, and splines will line up.

It took me a full day. Seems like it was easier when we were younger.

Just did a search about those bolts. According to Mike Kubarth who restores 40 Fords you can chase those threads. A "chaser" does not remove metal. He's the guy who really knows. Read about it here on last post. Bolt torque is also discussed. Snug as a bug in a rug seems appropriate!
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...que+tube+bolts

[V8COOPMAN]

I also neglected to mention having the spring separated from the rear end...it helps tremendously. One more thing....have the transmission in gear so that the splined U-joint remains stationary (rather than turning with the drive shaft) as someone turns a rear axle to help align the U-joint splines. The opposite rear axle should be restrained from turning (mounted tire in contact with ground?) to effectively rotate drive shaft back and forth. Hope this helps! DD

[slowforty]

DONT FORGET THE COVER FOR THE U-JOINT!
Dont ask me why!

[19Fordy]

OUCH. That's like forgetting the throw out bearing.
Did that one time only.

[philipswanson]

We removed one end of the spring and let it drop to the floor. Now I think it will go right in but I decided to order those two gaskets up front so its on hold to next weekend. I think it will go very easy now with the spring out of the equation. Remember also, I have a wagon with a much thicker spring with about three more leaves than the car. I didn't need to put any blocks under the floorboard because the horn slid right through with very little persuasion. Thanks for that great write up. The pictures are great too. On those special bolts, one was broken already with the head still hanging on the wire when I took it apart. As far as sealing goes, I wouldn't worry too much. Just going to pull them one by one and Permatex the threads going in. I will replace the top one with an SAE equivalant.

Thanks!

Phil Swanson

[19Fordy]

Goody gumdrop. Glad it's working out for you.
Man, I can only imagine the weight of that rear spring!