Valve question

[3739ford]

I purchased a complete valve kit about 2 years ago for 8ba engine. The 8ba had to many cracks to rebuild so I found a 1CM block, 4" stroke mercury crank, and 52-53 EAB Cam. I'm just getting around to build the engine and opened the box with the valves.


The new valve on the left and old original valve on the right. The new valve is same length, but much thicker on top and sticks up higher in the block. Will this new valve cause me problems? By the way I have EAB heads to go on the engine.


Thanks for your comments.

[KiWinUS]

Mate you should be good to go. Your old valves look to have been refaced several times.
Good luck

[Russ/40]

Depending on where the valve seats are, you may have some clearance issues between valves and the head, especially on 5 thru 8, bank two. Depends on the heads used. Clay the heads without a gasket to be sure where you stand.

[3739ford]

Thanks for your comments.


If there is a clearance issue with one or two valves would I be better off to take them all out and have them ground.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by 3739ford

I purchased a complete valve kit about 2 years ago for 8ba engine. The 8ba had to many cracks to rebuild so I found a 1CM block, 4" stroke mercury crank, and 52-53 EAB Cam. I'm just getting around to build the engine and opened the box with the valves.


The new valve on the left and old original valve on the right. The new valve is same length, but much thicker on top and sticks up higher in the block. Will this new valve cause me problems? By the way I have EAB heads to go on the engine.


Thanks for your comments.

Not sure where you got the new valves but that "margin" is way too thick, appears to be near .125" (1/8")??

What this tells me is it is most likely also much heavier than the OEM counterpart. This in turn MAY affect the necessary spring pressure, may want a few #'s more on the seat and open??

On a side note they should also be stainless steel.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's shot of the stainless ones we use here with all the "relative" dimensions including the weight in grams!

[37 Cab]

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Almost looks like the new valve is cut at a greater angle. Hard to tell from the picture. What is the installed height compared to old set up?

[3739ford]

Don't have any way to measure the weight. The kit said valves were stainless steel here are a few snapshots of the valve. There was a glare in one of the pictures, but the reading was 1.564".


The first valve I fitted into the block fit like a glove, but second was seated high to my thinking so I stopped.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by 3739ford

Thanks for your comments.


If there is a clearance issue with one or two valves would I be better off to take them all out and have them ground.

If you clay the heads, put the clay right at the top rim of the valve. Usually any interferance there can be resolved by grinding that area with a carbide burr. It won't take enough to significantly affect chamber size.
Personally, I would not be concerned about valve weight or the thickness. All the better for heat dissipation on the valve.

[Russ/40]

Also, to add, the angle of the valve to head makes it so only the very top of the valve may make contact. That means only a slight crescent shape area need be ground to accommodate the interferance.

I have great respect for GOSFAST, but we are not talking extreme tolerances here. Much of which becomes bragging rights. Way to much money can be spent on bragging rights issues. Remember how basic Ford approached things and how well they work.

Only you know how low or high one seat may be relative to another. We need more info regarding that to make a recommendation. A good photo would help.

[3739ford]

The brand name does not mean anything to me. I bent a bunch of the original valves getting them out and had to take a cutting torch to the rest. This kit was convenient and had all the parts in one click of the mouse.


Thanks,

[HP Hunter]

Originally Posted by 3739ford

Don't have any way to measure the weight. The kit said valves were stainless steel here are a few snapshots of the valve. There was a glare in one of the pictures, but the reading was 1.564".


The first valve I fitted into the block fit like a glove, but second was seated high to my thinking so I stopped.

This is the wrong size valve for the original flatheads.

Harry

[Ronnie]

Unless you grind the seat to accommodate the valve,that is the wrong size.
head diameter. The qual cast in the picture #10-1358 is a ford 240/300 6cly. qual cast.You need a 1.510" head size.A qualcast #10-212. Or any other supplier that sells that application. Or a small block 350 exh valve,this combo requires adjustable lifters and some stem grinding.



R

[Lawrie]

Or just get a set from Gofast here.
Lawrie

[3739ford]

It was interesting I went to Speedway site and theirs were 1.575 for 8BA ford.

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by 3739ford

It was interesting I went to Speedway site and theirs were 1.575 for 8BA ford.

No argument there but stock isn't 1.575



R

[3739ford]

Agreed, I want stock valve #'s only have the funds to do this one time.

[Tinker]

I thought the trick was Chevy valves.


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1267491

[Ol' Ron]

If your gona run a stock guide, I wouldn't run a stainless steel valve unless it had a chrome stem. The oEM valves have a SS head and a steel stem for better wear. JMO

[3739ford]

Bear with me I'm trying to get up to speed on the valves. I thought this would be the easiest part of the rebuild.


The use of stainless valves are quieter, perform better with modern gas over the original valves?

[Ol' Ron]

OK, We really don't know the application of the engine? Street or race? The length of the valve stem depends on the cam lift. If your using adj lifters. A hot street engine can use a bigger valve like the 1.6 Chevy valve. Always us an OEM exhaust it;s a 2 piece valve and will last longer. For race use racing valves. always Knurl guides. Don't worry about seals. These options will vary.