Chemical rust Remover

[klrh20frank]

Has any one used Rust911 on an A fender. Pretty large to be able to submerge. take a lot of fluid. Thanks

[LeonardS]

I would sand blast, media blast or use a coarse flapper wheel. Whoever sand blasts it, must not overheat and warp the metal.

[wrndln]

I have tried Rust911 and it kind of worked. It is concentrated, so I goes a lot farther than some rust removers since it is concentrated. However, I have found that sandblasting sheetmetal (or any metal part that will be painted) is the fastest way to clean sheetmetal down to bare metal. Sandblasting leaves an excellent base to apply an epoxy primer (I use Southern Polyurethane Inc epoxy primer). SPI epoxy primer is less expensive than PPG DPx0 primer and will sand nicely if you don't top coat it until after the "open" window" for epoxy primers. PPG DPx0 primer balls up when sanded. Some people say sandblasting will warp the metal, but I have done 3 model A's (all the sheetmetal on them) this way and have yet to see ANY warping. I use 80 lbs of pressure with my TIP (USA made) pressure blaster. You just need to be prudent and not do a lot of 90 degree perpendicular blasting to the metal. I use a 3/32" nozzle that minimizes the amount of sand hitting the metal. It takes a while to sandblast a front fender - roughly 2 or 2 1/2 hours. You need to prime the blasted metal fairly soon after sandblasting it to prevent surface rusting.
Hope this helps

Rusty Nelson

[rotorwrench]

Thin steel can warp when grit blasted. I've always tried to use the least invasive type of media for the job at hand. I have a local blaster that I use for the large stuff. I just don't like the mess it makes. I use paint remover on thick paint or urethane/epoxy finish removal. I sand or file rusty body parts to remove as much corrosion as is practicable. I conversion treat after that with phosphoric based conversion treatments to kill anything I missed prior to priming.

[oldspert]

I treat clean metal with OSPHO, purchased at Home Depot. It is a phosphoric acid converter that changes any residual rust to iron phosphate. Be sure to clean the surface before top coating.

[Hitman]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If you're going for primer and paint adhesion, you need the metal 100% clean.

Only sandblasting (or similar media) will do this. You'll still have to clean the residual dust, but not any chemicals that can remain in microscopic pits and pores like they will with rust or paint chemicals. Once blasted, you'll have to primer quickly to avoid the flash rust, which can occur in even the most arid climates.

Save the Rust 911 and Evaporust for your carb and other small parts that make it economically feasible.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Wow, a lot of differing opinions here. A couple of things based on my own experiences.

First off, Evapo-Rust, Rust911, et/al will not dissolve or treat anything that is organic, -so all paint and substrates must be removed first.

Second, if media blasting, the method we use is have the blasting company use plastic media to strip the paint & other organic materials. They use about 40# of nozzle air pressure for this step. The plastic media does not remove rust, so after all paint is gone they switch to aluminum oxide media and shoot the rusted areas at about 35# pressure. The metal stays at room temperature even when the nozzle is placed in one spot for 30 seconds or so. Glass media is not really the correct way to go since the glass has a way of shattering and imbedding into the pores of the metal.


As far as successful use of Rust911, we have probably purchased 50 gallons of the stuff over the years. We like it.

Submerging something is not necessarily the only way to remove rust. You have a couple of other options. On something such as a Model-A fender, use a kiddie pool tilted on a 4x4 piece of wood to act as a sump, and use a small electric sump pump to circulate the rust remover solution over various areas of the fender (-or whatever). Think waterfall over the metal.

We also use Rust911 for beds on tools such as table saws, band-saws, anvils, etc., etc. when flash rust occurs. Use a Scotchbrite soaked in the rust remover solution to gently scrub the surface so that the metal is saturated. Then either use paper towels or cloth towels and fully cover the rusty metal. Then saturate the towel with the rust remover solution and allow it to soak for about an hour. Remove the towels and the rust will be gone, -or nearly gone. Repeat using the soaked Scotchbrite if necessary.

Also, if you are doing something such as splash aprons or maybe a torque tube, use wood such as 1x12 pine board to build a temporary rectangle frame that is a tad larger than the piece(s) you are cleaning. Brace across the bottom depending on the length, and then use a heavy mil plastic or a fish pool liner to build a temporary soaking tank by laying the plastic/liner inside of the board framework. Then place your pieces inside of the framework and add the rust remover.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Hitman

If you're going for primer and paint adhesion, you need the metal 100% clean.

Only sandblasting (or similar media) will do this. You'll still have to clean the residual dust, but not any chemicals that can remain in microscopic pits and pores like they will with rust or paint chemicals. Once blasted, you'll have to primer quickly to avoid the flash rust, which can occur in even the most arid climates.

Save the Rust 911 and Evaporust for your carb and other small parts that make it economically feasible.

That really isn't a factual statement. On brand-new repro sheetmetal, we use a Scotchbrite Roloc and lightly scuff the entire surface taking all of about 5-10 minutes for both side of a fender or apron. Next, there is specific primers designed & recommended for use over bare metal. One of the best ones to use is DTM Epoxy. Before any paintwork, we wipe with Phosphoric Acid and immediately wipe the surfaces clean with Wax & Grease Remover. Then apply a direct-to-metal epoxy and you will have a bond just as strong as tooth metal that has been mediablasted.

[Hitman]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

That really isn't a factual statement. On brand-new repro sheetmetal, we use a Scotchbrite Roloc and lightly scuff the entire surface taking all of about 5-10 minutes for both side of a fender or apron. Next, there is specific primers designed & recommended for use over bare metal. One of the best ones to use is DTM Epoxy. Before any paintwork, we wipe with Phosphoric Acid and immediately wipe the surfaces clean with Wax & Grease Remover. Then apply a direct-to-metal epoxy and you will have a bond just as strong as tooth metal that has been mediablasted.

You're absolutely right Brent. You highlighted only portions of my comment to make your statement. When you do that, it's easy to make the claim that I wasn't factual.

The original poster didn't give a ton of info, but did mention rust. So I responded at a very high level on a method I'd use to remove rust from an assumed to be rusty and used fender. Then you come along, use a portion of my statement and talk about brand-new repro sheetmetal, which is not what I was referring to, and likely wasn't by the OP either. I could easily do the same with your comments and point out how you're wrong; because you are when I highlight only a portion and take it out of your intended context.

You've done this to me before in my comments and it's not appreciated.

[troubadour85]

Ive had lots of success with it on sheet metal followed by a cleaning with a scotch brite pad