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07-22-2018, 08:33 PM | #1 |
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Component Finishes
Due to the hard work and perseverance of many, the JS offers us a wealth of information re: finishes for most components of our projects. I don't wish to stir up a hornet’s nest but would like ‘opinions’ of the following products to approximate the finishes we are trying to replicate.
* “Raven” … Rust oleum Rust Reformer: actually a unique 'flat' color ... but once used, does this product stand up to weather (humidity) or does it have to be overcoated with ‘paint’? I have not had any luck with various Parkerizing, gun bluing products, etc.. * “Unfinished” … Eastwood Factory Gray-Cast Iron Color or Eastwood Zink Phosphate: any advantage over clear lacquer (rattle can) over clean bare metal? * “Cadmium” … Eastwood Silver Cad: next to impossible to find actual cad plating in my area. * Suggestions for other products? * Feel free to PM if you dont wish the wrath of posting here |
07-22-2018, 11:43 PM | #2 |
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Re: Component Finishes
Perhaps anyone who has had their vehicles "Judged" can post photos of these parts to show us what to expect ???
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1928 "A" Phaeton (mid year with many early features) 1933 "V8" Closed-Cab Pickup Truck (originally a Model B, 4 Cylinder dating to May, 1933)
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07-23-2018, 09:20 AM | #3 |
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Re: Component Finishes
Raven- Rustoleum rust reformer, I’ve used this on the top of a modern car where the paint peeled off leaving primer that then rusted. The reformer turned the rust a nice flat black, never did repaint :-( the reformer lasted about a year before rust started back.
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07-24-2018, 08:35 AM | #4 |
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Re: Component Finishes
see below
meant to include al's28/33 quote Last edited by Charles Reese; 07-28-2018 at 12:41 PM. |
07-24-2018, 08:36 AM | #5 |
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Re: Component Finishes
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07-24-2018, 02:54 PM | #6 |
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Re: Component Finishes
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Rusty Nelson |
07-24-2018, 11:25 PM | #7 |
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Re: Component Finishes
Charles, too bad we humans are so opinionated. It would really be nice to actually see these mysterious cad and chrome and raven and butler finished components of a truly original or restored Model "A" Ford. I am of the belief that the uneducated folks have the loudest bark, those of us akin to verbal abuse have become the "silent majority". We are all entitled to our opinion just be respectful of others at the same time. Too bad people are afraid of the criticism here, I would not mind to post pictures and help fellow hobbyists if and when I had the means to do so. I have helped a few and have received much help from others thru this website.
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1928 "A" Phaeton (mid year with many early features) 1933 "V8" Closed-Cab Pickup Truck (originally a Model B, 4 Cylinder dating to May, 1933)
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07-25-2018, 12:46 AM | #8 |
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Re: Component Finishes
Raven finish can be duplicated by Parkerizing metal parts. You can easily do it at home. Cadmium Plating is cheap. Do every part for your car in one batch.
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07-25-2018, 01:06 PM | #9 |
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Re: Component Finishes
246
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07-25-2018, 01:08 PM | #10 |
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Re: Component Finishes
357
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07-25-2018, 03:00 PM | #11 |
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Re: Component Finishes
That black finish many bolts have, i try to reserve that with linseed oil, satin clear coat would work better but eventually, they all rust away.
I have seen silver ...not powder coating, it think it was a ceramic coating that withstood heat, just in case you wanted to keep your exhaust manifold looking nice. I'll get told that it's "Oh so terrible" and to scrap my car, but i used that vinyl wrap on the bumpers. Actually i find it's the fine points guys who ridicule everyone else.
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<Link> This is how we roll<Link> "I'm Convinced that no one really reads posts anymore; they just fabricate what they think the post says then ramble on about red herrings."--Bob Outcasts rules of old cars #1 Fun is imperative, mainstream is overrated #2 If they think it is impossible, prove them wrong #3 If the science says it impossible you are not being creative enough. #4 No shame in recreating something you never had #5 If it were not for the law & physics you would be unstoppable |
07-25-2018, 03:34 PM | #12 |
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Re: Component Finishes
I have never seen a fine point Fordbarner ridicule anyone here on Fordbarn and I post and read here often. Maybe I am not looking for problems. Dumb Person, if you have two or three examples of the ridicule you speak of, please post it and I will admit I am incorrect. I have seen fine point people point out something that is obviously incorrect by a poster, which I don't see a ridicule.
Rusty Nelson |
07-25-2018, 04:12 PM | #13 | |
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Re: Component Finishes
Quote:
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07-25-2018, 04:22 PM | #14 |
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Re: Component Finishes
HERE are questions Charles asked for everyone to see and the answers he was given. You can see them all on the other site and more.
Thanks for the info posted on VFF… very helpful! * “Raven” … Rust oleum Rust Reformer: actually an interesting 'flat' color ... but once used, does this product stand up to weather (humidity) or does it have to be overcoated with ‘paint’? I have not had any luck with various Parkerizing, gun bluing products, etc.. DP90 is MUCH MUCH Better to use and looks more correct. Also you can buy "PRESTO BLACK" best i have seen, you can get from Birchwood Labs in MN...(google it) you drop it in and in about 3 min its black, clear water rinse, dry and spray with Satin. Out standing and all will match. I assume you are talking DP90 with hardener (2-part)… might try small volume via an air brush since I have so few raven parts CORRECT Website pics of Presto Black seem to show nice finish. A bit pricey tho for the few raven pieces needed. Wish it came in smaller size … do you know anyone that would want to split a gallon> Actually know I don’t but let me see if I can find another product that does that same, there are many out there available * “Unfinished” … Eastwood Factory Gray-Cast Iron Color or Eastwood Zink Phosphate: any advantage over clean bare metal sprayed with clear lacquer (rattle can)? Wire Brushed and then sprayed with "SATIN" clear lots of options … did your research find a favorite brand to hold up best? Rustolium or any of them, what is important is it is SATIN only…. * “Cadmium” … Eastwood Silver Cad: next to impossible to find actual cad plating in my area. Works fine but test first, I have used metallic silver with better results Is this the eastwood 2-part stuff? Or something in rattle can Rattle Can only. * "Chassis Black" ... Eastwood Chassis Black: acceptable? This is okay but a bit FLATTER than you really want for Fine Point...A Rattle can of Semi Gloss will work better as it always comes out flatter which is correct Again, lots of options … did your research find a favorite brand? I like the rattle can idea! Rustolium, makes sure its Satin Black….that is what you want Mark
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07-26-2018, 04:39 AM | #15 | |
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Re: Component Finishes
Quote:
post #12 Laughing at the colour
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<Link> This is how we roll<Link> "I'm Convinced that no one really reads posts anymore; they just fabricate what they think the post says then ramble on about red herrings."--Bob Outcasts rules of old cars #1 Fun is imperative, mainstream is overrated #2 If they think it is impossible, prove them wrong #3 If the science says it impossible you are not being creative enough. #4 No shame in recreating something you never had #5 If it were not for the law & physics you would be unstoppable |
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07-27-2018, 08:46 PM | #16 |
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Re: Component Finishes
I cleaned this thread up a bit. Couple of things:
1. I don’t get “fine point” cars. Just not my thing... however, I’m super glad other people do it and I appreciate them for sure. 2. The whole “I’ll send you a pm” thing is a bit childish.. That, I don’t appreciate. The owner of the “other site” keeps creating user names and spamming our users. Just crazy... Fellas.... these are just cars.... and this is just a message board. I don’t know why people try so hard to make more of it. There’s no need. Anyway, sorry for the interruption. Back to your thread. |
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