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Old 12-01-2014, 08:20 PM   #221
Bruce in southern OH
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Default Re: Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

One other thing today, I have found the SS ring for the other fog/driving light, now all I need is the glass lens.
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Old 12-06-2014, 06:48 PM   #222
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Installed the exhaust hot air heater duct in the 39 Lincoln Zephyr today, the 6 volt blower motor works fine. Removed the old asbestos connection on the duct work that goes into car and replaced with 2 1/2" flex exhaust pipe. Next I decided that I did not want to disturb two head bolts to fasten the blower motor in factory position for one winter Christmas parade this coming weekend. I mounted the blower motor on the inside fender well and used 2 1/4" flex exhaust pipe. Started 12 volt car and then ran blower motor with 6 volt battery charger. It is good heat and very strong air blowing in car. I can see a problem if you had a engine that smoked, anti-freeze leak smell and it would suck in engine air, need an outside air source. I am sure this is how heater air source evolved. Also tested the head lights with new 12 volt head lamps, looks nice.
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Asbestos flex replacement with steel flex
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Duct work inside engine compartment, factory location, moving blower motor to fender well.
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Relocated Fender blower fan location
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:56 PM   #223
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Default Re: Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

That is an interesting heater system you have. I recall seeing a very similar setup on the right side manifold of my 38 parts car engine many years ago. Unfortunately it is 40 years or so since we took it apart and I have no idea where that part ended up. I always thought it had quite a potential for carbon monoxide entering the passenger area.
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:17 PM   #224
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Ralph, could be a potential for carbon monoxide, I agree, I checked the heat ex-changer, inside, it is cast iron like the old steam radiators in homes. I used a big shop vac to blow inside and blocked off the exhaust of heat ex-changer and it did not have any holes I could detect. (large holes). I am sure potential leaks is one reason for change but I did read some where that hot water heat was also available that year.(service manual) This was the last year for the exhaust air heat. I did not even think I would ever install but I am taking the Huntington Christmas Parade Marshal next weekend in parade. He has been very ill and his son said he wanted to ride in an old car, (open car out of question) this is the only car that I could come up with that would protect him from weather and would have GOOD heat. I still will continue to monitor the smells in car for problems or symptoms, it does get hot quick, was 34 degrees here today. Thank you and stay warm, way up North, Merry Christmas
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Old 12-07-2014, 09:45 AM   #225
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Default Re: Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

Bruce, the forward hole in the heat exchanger should be piped up to the radiator. There is a shroud that hangs from the two upper radiator hoses that collects fresh air and sends it to the heat exchanger. The blower motor should be connected to the rear hole in the heat exchanger, forcing fresh heated air into the car. That way there is no danger (in a good system) of getting any noxious fumes into the passenger compartment.
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:26 AM   #226
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Default Re: Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic Piano View Post
Bruce, the forward hole in the heat exchanger should be piped up to the radiator. There is a shroud that hangs from the two upper radiator hoses that collects fresh air and sends it to the heat exchanger. The blower motor should be connected to the rear hole in the heat exchanger, forcing fresh heated air into the car. That way there is no danger (in a good system) of getting any noxious fumes into the passenger compartment.
Not true Vic , The blower mounts to the head and pushes air through the forward hole in the heat exchanger. The heated air comes out of the rear hole through a flexible sleeve(originally made from asbestos ) up through a large elbow with the silencer then in the car. The 39s did not have the shroud or collector that hung from the radiator. Best way to check the heat exchanger is to fill it with water up to the two large holes then check for leaks inside the exhaust outlet.
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Old 12-07-2014, 11:19 AM   #227
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Default Re: Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

Ken, you are right about the blower motor placement, that was my mistake however, my '39 LZ had the shroud/collector mounted to the radiator, as did my '39 Ford CS. In fact, there are three mounting tabs on the shroud, making it adjustable to fit the Ford or the Zephyr radiator. Maybe they were both retro fit...??? But, according to my research, and information I've garnered from Ford/Lincoln documents, drawings, etc., the shroud/collector was used on hot air heater systems from '37 to '48 on the LZ.
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Old 12-07-2014, 02:28 PM   #228
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Ken, you are right about the blower motor placement, that was my mistake however, my '39 LZ had the shroud/collector mounted to the radiator, as did my '39 Ford CS. In fact, there are three mounting tabs on the shroud, making it adjustable to fit the Ford or the Zephyr radiator. Maybe they were both retro fit...??? But, according to my research, and information I've garnered from Ford/Lincoln documents, drawings, etc., the shroud/collector was used on hot air heater systems from '37 to '48 on the LZ.
Yeah,Im not sure when Ford started using collector at the radiator,I know they did in 40 . None of the Zephyr blowers Ive seen used from 37-39 has a provision for the duct to attach to it,they have a door that slides open but the later ones starting in 40 does.Just one of those mysteries I guess.
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Old 12-07-2014, 02:48 PM   #229
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Yeah,Im not sure when Ford started using collector at the radiator,I know they did in 40 . None of the Zephyr blowers Ive seen used from 37-39 has a provision for the duct to attach to it,they have a door that slides open but the later ones starting in 40 does.Just one of those mysteries I guess.
Yeah, I agree, there are plenty of mysteries when it comes to Early Ford nomenclatures, etc. I have seen the blowers with and without the "door". My LZ did have the remnants of the hot air system in it, including the shroud however, the blower motor and connecting piping (to the heat exchanger) were missing when I got it.
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Old 12-07-2014, 05:04 PM   #230
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Yes Vic, I installed using the original parts I got with car, heater works well. I did not want to take a chance on disturbing the head/ head gasket so I relocated blower to fender well, if I had more time I could have hard piped, making a tube that would look like a factory pipe. (will do later) There would be a lot of heat on the little motor in summer time, I now will probably leave installed, it will be something everyone will want to ask "what is that"?? I will tell them it is an "exhaust induction multiplier". This afternoon I freed up both of the defrost cables and got them operational. Also installed the drivers side glove box back in car, installed three modern gauges, mechanical oil, mechanical water temp and voltage meter, hid them in back of glove box. Will go down to Don P. this week to see if he has a 12 Volt small blower motor that I can use on heater system. Last but not least, need to have head light switch installed, there is not any place in the dash to install. Old head light switch is good but a bear to work on underneath the radio controls.
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New gauges in the car to monitor the engine, now you see them.
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Now you do not see them!!!
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Old 12-07-2014, 05:59 PM   #231
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Lookin good Bruce. My LZ had the gauges set up like yours but, I removed them. Hoping to have the OEM gauges working with the voltage drop unit we installed. I have an original 'open car' radio for the LZ but I haven't installed it yet. Last weekend I installed the headlight switch and got just about all the electrical components working. Now I'll install the windshield wiper switch and then put the gauge cluster back in the dash.
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Old 12-07-2014, 06:15 PM   #232
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Vic, going to purchase the one voltage reducer for the original cluster, ( all gauges were still 6 volts up into 60's or 70's ) my gauges all work, ( not reconnected ) need the gas gauge first. Do you have the part number for your voltage drop unit??? I am using a GM style head light switch, dim dash lights/park/ head lights. Tell me more about wiper motor and what you have done, I did find while I had glove box out that the wipers are located behind the defrost metal duct in dash. This will be a big project if I have to remove glove box again, defrost metal duct and free up right angle drive. Need to remove vacuum motor and do maintenance on motor.
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:20 AM   #233
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Bruce, I got the voltage reducer from Joblot, it is a Dennis Carpenter item, sorry, I don't have the part number. I'm going from memory here so, that's always dangerous but, the wiper motor in my car is located behind, and at the top of, the instrument cluster, (I don't think the metal duct is in the way, as it is mounted on the firewall and below the wiper motor). It is fairly easy to get to with the instrument cluster removed. The wiper motor in my LZ works however, a previous owner had removed the OEM switch/control and rerouted a cable, that they installed in the throttle location on the dash. I located an OEM switch (got it from Merv Adkins, he advertised on the LZOC web site, www.lzoc.org), that I will be installing. The OEM headlight switch in my car is still good, so I'm using it. I did install and NOS headlight dimmer switch. I don't know if this will help you but, here's a photo of the '39 LZ wiper set up, taken from the Ford Service Bulletins.
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Old 12-08-2014, 10:36 AM   #234
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Default Re: Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

Bruce,
If the Lincoln gauges are the same as the Ford gauges then you can use a ECH IR1 from NAPA. That is what Ford did when they changed to 12v. Did this on my '48 F-1 when I changed to 12v. Put in series between switch and gauges.
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Old 12-08-2014, 03:00 PM   #235
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Default Re: Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

Vic, the wiper set up is the same as your bulletin, the defrost metal duct is right below the L.H. and R.H. wiper drive. After this weekend I will remove water pumps and send to "Skip" and take instrument Cluster out to access the wiper motor.

estout81, thanks for info, I just called NAPA, they wanted $56.39 and told would have to use UPS and add an additional 10.00 for shipping. Looked on e bay, found one in Springfield, OH and it list for 35.00 plus 6.50shipping ( Mid-West Ford ) it list Manufacturer Part Number:
D-10800
Let me know if this seems correct, says use only one for all instruments. thanks for reply and info, Bruce
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Old 12-08-2014, 03:09 PM   #236
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Default Re: Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

Bruce, I was thinking of the inlet at the firewall for the metal ducts, not at the top of the cowl for the vents. As for the voltage drop unit that I got, you do only need one to operate all the instruments.
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Old 12-08-2014, 03:51 PM   #237
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Called O'Reilly Auto parts, they have a 12 to 6 volt reducer good for 2 amps, VR-1, only $11 and in stock. Wondering if these units are good for gauges, read where the cluster only uses 1 amp or less for fuel, temp and oil. Also will have to check my blower motor again with 6 volt battery charger and see what amps are pulled by little motor, might work on that also, any info, let me know, Bruce
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Old 12-08-2014, 04:45 PM   #238
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Bruce,
You can find the regulator on the back of the instrument panel of most all Ford cars and trucks from '57 thru '89 that I know of. Some have spade lugs and and some have a snap on like 9v batteries. You want the one with spade lug. As for the O'Reilly part, I don't know. It has to be for Ford instruments. It regulates by a heated bimetal strip that is compatible with Ford gauges
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:38 PM   #239
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Default Re: Yes, they are still out there NUMBER 2

Have just about got the basics of the 39 LZ wiring done, I now have a 12 volt blower motor and will work on installation tomorrow. I picked up the tools I have borrowed from Don P. and made a trip to his garage today, took the two fender skirts with me to un-stick the skirts locks. I knew they were rusted up and dirty, found the problem with them after removal. Repaired one passenger side today and will work on the other tomorrow. Hope to install before Saturday evening Christmas Parade, will make a big difference in appearance.
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Fender Skirt lock device before removal, froze in time.
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Removed from skirt, lots of heat on the three screws that hold device to the skirt, next was the locking movable bolt removal, small screw came loose with impact screw driver.
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Shop blasted the outside of device so we could see how to remove covers
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After Don P. and I removed the cover, device was filled solid with rusty sand/dried dirt. Took photo after we removed most dirt.
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Cleaned up very nice, will post more photos tomorrow.
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Old 12-12-2014, 04:16 PM   #240
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Don P. started on the drivers side skirt today, he had added the welting to the passenger side before I arrived. We removed the locking device on the skirt and took it apart like we did the passenger yesterday. Cleaned up all parts and reassembled. Placed the locking device back in the skirt, Don cut more welting and we placed on the skirt. I took both fender skirts home and placed on the car, do not have any idea when they were last on car but they fit perfect.
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Don P. working on fender skirt
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fender skirt locking device clean up.
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Replaced locking device on skirt
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Placed fender skirt on car!
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Passenger side
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Thanks Don P. for all your hard work, BJ
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