|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
04-29-2019, 02:28 PM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 32
|
New 2 tooth steering shaft
Hi, I purchased a new steering shaft for a 29 I'm working on. Problem is the original is slightly shorter. Mac's catalog says to press the worm farther on and trim off the excess. I've tried just about everything I can think of to move the worm farther up the shaft with out any success. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
__________________
http://www.metropolitan-restoration-service.com/ |
04-29-2019, 05:22 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,175
|
Re: New 2 tooth steering shaft
You don't say how you tried to move the worm. BFH (Big ****** Hammer) is generally not recommended.
The problem with pressing on further is "holding" the shaft from slipping while you do the press part. A Big something clamp properly made might do it and one hopes one's press is tall enough. One method I've heard of is to "thread" the interior of the steering shaft at the lower end. You wind allthread into this female thread and use a 1" pipe coupling and several large washers and a nut as a "puller" to pull the worm further up the shaft. The methodology does cut into the metal subject to press fit and thereby weaken the shaft, but you don't need to run the tap the full depth or length of worm, an inch will do it. Others have used the press and put the steering shaft into it "full length." The problem with this is "folding" the shaft before the press is completed (Called Euler Column failure among engineers) One needs to "reinforce" the steering shaft against buckling while under compression in the press. A 1" pipe works pretty well. But you need the big press. Hope this helps. Someone has done the allthread method and will likely know the size tap offhand. Joe K
__________________
Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 04-29-2019 at 05:54 PM. |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
04-29-2019, 06:01 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: SoCal Desert
Posts: 826
|
Re: New 2 tooth steering shaft
I have the Diabloas Rebuilding Model A 2 Tooth Steering DVD from Snyders and it show the whole process. A Great DVD to have while rebuilding.
They discuss polishing the shaft first with emery cloth then using a 5/8 x 18 Tap and run the tap up about 1-1/2" up. After that, they use all-thread and stacked washers to draw the worm gear up. Looked pretty easy. in my case, I bought the shaft with the worm already installed for my 31, which didn't need the haircut. Last edited by BillCNC; 04-29-2019 at 06:07 PM. |
04-30-2019, 07:28 AM | #4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 32
|
Re: New 2 tooth steering shaft
Thanks for the advice! I used a combination of ideas to get the worm moved up. I ended up first pressing the worm off the new shaft by threading the end, installing a 5/8 bolt, made an aluminum block that slid up the shaft against the worm gear, raised my press on 2 4x4's and lightly heated the worm while keeping pressure on it. It took quite a bit to get it to move. Then I cut the shaft down to the correct length, which removed all the threads I had tapped in. To reinstall, I placed a 1/2" block of aluminum on the floor, tapped the worm on with a brass hammer, then heated the worm and drove the worm on by grabbing the shaft and driving it directly down on the aluminum plate. I had to heat the worm multiple times to get it to fully seat. Quite the job I will say. Again thanks for the help as always!!
__________________
http://www.metropolitan-restoration-service.com/ |
04-30-2019, 08:47 AM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,175
|
Re: New 2 tooth steering shaft
One removal technique I have done is to use a length of 1" pipe longer than the shaft. The shaft is placed top end down in the pipe. The pipe and shaft are then "smartly" rapped on a concrete floor (or a piece of 3/4" steel plate) and INERTIA removes the shaft leaving the worm in your right hand - or rolling around on the floor.
I considered a "converse" to this using a pipe coupling, a pipe bushing, a long rod (to hold the coupling to the end of the shaft/worm) and tapping this whole assembly on the floor/steel plate. As with the worm removal method I used, INERTIA of the shaft should carry it into the worm similarly without damage to the worm. BUT - Doing it this way control is not as good for worm locating. Perhaps a press or the threaded option affords better control? Which is why I didn't suggest it. Joe K
__________________
Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 04-30-2019 at 09:39 AM. |
04-30-2019, 03:32 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 110
|
Re: New 2 tooth steering shaft
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
|
04-30-2019, 04:22 PM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,011
|
Re: New 2 tooth steering shaft
I tried putting the shaft in the freezer but the missus didn't like the long end of the shaft sticking so far out in the kitchen, so I hung a rag on it for visibility. That didn't go over very well either.
__________________
If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|