09-15-2013, 07:47 AM | #1 |
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Head Studs
Installing all new head studs.
Q. Should they be (somehow) torqued down into the block and how does one do this? Q. Should I apply something onto the threads going into the block such as anti-seize, drop of oil, ??? (if anything)? Thanks. |
09-15-2013, 08:00 AM | #2 |
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Re: Head Studs
I put never seeze on the threads, screw them in the block and just snub the up a little with a pair of plyers, no need to torque them. Walt
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09-15-2013, 10:49 AM | #3 |
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Re: Head Studs
We just replaced stubs in a bloack a few weeks back, we used Les Andrews book, very easy to do and the end result looks factory perfect!
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09-15-2013, 11:23 AM | #4 |
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Re: Head Studs
In my opinion anti-seize won't hurt a thing, and can be very helpful in the future to prevent a stud from sticking and breaking off when trying to remove.
I do agree head studs do not need to be torqued into block; just finger tight to slight snugging with a pliers.
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09-15-2013, 12:59 PM | #5 |
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Re: Head Studs
Anti-seize and finger tight. Run a bottoming tap into each hole first, and blow it out with compressed air. Leaving them slightly loose allows them to align themselves when putting the gasket and head on.
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11-07-2013, 05:35 AM | #6 |
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Re: Head Studs
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11-07-2013, 07:35 AM | #7 |
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Re: Head Studs
The 2 studs for the water outlet and the 1 for the ignition should be run down till they stop, not torqued. The rest should be run in till there is 2 threads above 2.750". Oil, never-seize or, non permanent lock-tite, your choice.
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11-07-2013, 07:58 AM | #8 | |
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Re: Head Studs
Quote:
It doesn't hurt using number 2 Permatex or if it's drilled through and you can't repair it use number 1 . The ARP studs you mentioned are supposed to be installed finger tight no more. |
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11-07-2013, 08:25 AM | #9 |
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Re: Head Studs
When I replaced my engine head gasket last year I removed all the old studs with a stud removal tool and then cleaned off the top of each piston and the engine deck itself. Then I chased the threads on each threaded hole several times until the tap showed no trash then installed each new stud with a dab of never seize on the treads...just snugged up the studs after they bottomed out...I had a stud break off a couple of years ago and ended up having to pull the engine so I'm determined not to go through that again...
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11-08-2013, 05:31 AM | #10 |
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Re: Head Studs
It may not be the head stud holes, but isn't there some place where the proper tap used at the factory is one with less clearance and the tap from Ace is too loose with NOS studs? I don't know if this applies to modern studs.
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11-08-2013, 05:52 AM | #11 |
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Re: Head Studs
Yes, taps come in difference tolerances. The most common sold are "loose" H-3.
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11-09-2013, 09:27 AM | #12 |
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Re: Head Studs
Mike V. Florida,
I have been searching for the undersize taps to chase threads in blocks. Do you know a source for them? One that would allow the purchase of a few at a time. Thanks Mike! Dave in MN |
11-09-2013, 10:55 AM | #13 |
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Re: Head Studs
I have in the past used gun cleaning brushes copper and wd40 works if not real bad
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11-09-2013, 04:28 PM | #14 | |
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Re: Head Studs
Quote:
I just removed the 14 studs from my engine. I went to a flathead rebuilder machinist friend to discuss this very same topic (stud/thread). He gave me a tutorial and proper cleanout tool. I then asked him about efficacy/correctness of using an old way of doing same thread chasing job , i.e.- take a good used bolt (grade 8 is what I use) and cut four slots equally spaced on bolt ends up thru half inch of threads to clean and NOT damage block threads. He responded that that would do as good a job as his store bought special chaser....FYI |
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11-03-2018, 11:44 AM | #15 |
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Re: Head Studs
Tightening the head studs using double nutting is pain in the ... Today I ended up with a better way.
Use a spare head stud. Screw it into a head nut halfway. Then screw this assembly on the stud you want to put in, using the remaining half of the nut. Use a wrench to gently screw the stud into its hole. Next remove the assembly. Much more simple than dubble nutting |
11-03-2018, 12:33 PM | #16 |
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Re: Head Studs
Don't forget that one of the head studs is slightly higher to accomodate the thickness of the ignition switch cable clamp (which was factory installed) if you plan on using one. Personally I don't want to mess with a head bolt when performing maintenance on the distributer. Your choice. Ed
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11-03-2018, 02:42 PM | #17 | |
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Re: Head Studs
Quote:
better way is cut a slot in threads of a old stud use, that to clean the threads. |
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11-03-2018, 03:22 PM | #18 |
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Re: Head Studs
I've recently gone through the same thing after someone chased the threads in the diff (the ones for the bolts holding the trunpets on). They leaked so much, I could end up with an empty diff without moving the car!Many tapped holes have been ruined this way over the years and it is still happening. If tighter tolerance taps were available, maybe some would be saved. I've been usung the "grooves in an old stud" for 50 years. Sometimes, I even heat the stud to cherry red, quench it in oil, then cut the grooves.
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11-04-2018, 07:34 AM | #19 | |
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Re: Head Studs
Quote:
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11-04-2018, 09:30 AM | #20 |
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Re: Head Studs
that's what i did!
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11-04-2018, 09:33 AM | #21 |
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Re: Head Studs
i even put the never seeze on the stud it self, so i could get the head off if i need too
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11-04-2018, 11:02 AM | #22 |
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Re: Head Studs
I put never sieze on the stud threads that enter the block threads and snug the studs up with pliers . I don't try torqueing the studs . I torque the head nuts to 55 foot lbs .
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11-04-2018, 03:59 PM | #23 |
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Re: Head Studs
The main reason I do it is to harden the stud so it works better for longer.
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11-05-2018, 01:24 PM | #24 |
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Re: Head Studs
Heating and quenching can work good for shrinking sheet metal body parts. Heating and quenching hardenes metal and can make metal brittle. Head studs are pretty easy to break even if not heated and quenched . No harm meant , I just hope that you don't have the bad luck of wringing off a hardened stud in the block .
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11-05-2018, 04:30 PM | #25 | |
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Re: Head Studs
Quote:
I do not harden them prior to using them to hold down the head. You're right about how difficult it would be if I were to break one in the block but a little care prevents it.
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11-05-2018, 05:02 PM | #26 |
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Re: Head Studs
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11-06-2018, 09:41 AM | #27 |
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Re: Head Studs
Many times the head is very difficult to remove because the studs are rusted over their entire length because water had leaked into the area between the stud and head.
This problem can be prevented if antifreeze is used in cooling system. This is just one of the ways that water in cooling system damages parts! |
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