Water pump to buy?

[37 Coupe]

My biggest question or at least just one of them since buying this 1931 Model A is which water pump to go with. I have studied and studied,some are new ,some are rebuilt some have a bearing on both ends some don't some are dependable some claim to be but can leave you stranded. I think I had it down to one or two it Bratton's but now they say not available.Only thing I know is I want a leakless and a stainless steel shaft.

[Tacoma Bob]

Jim Rupert Xtreme duty is what I'm currently using. No mater what you select they can all leave you stranded at some point. Always smart to carry a spare just like a distributor.

[Davew]

http://leaklessapumps.com
The way I went. Got really tired of leaks. No more.

[Kurt in NJ]

The last pump I used had stainless shaft, worn out quick shaft not hard enough for front bearing, the water pump in the car noe(over 30 years) was made out of removed parts from making "leak less pumps---- hasn't leaked in years, the guy that had to have " leakless"has replaced it 3 times in 30 years---- I will stick with stock pumps made with old parts

[100IH]

Boy Howdy need to spend cause its better. The $$$ make it so. You'll never know how much better unless you first learn how to rebuild a stock one and get to enjoy it. One of the Rites of Passage, like a Walkabout.

[Synchro909]

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Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

The last pump I used had stainless shaft, worn out quick shaft not hard enough for front bearing, the water pump in the car noe(over 30 years) was made out of removed parts from making "leak less pumps---- hasn't leaked in years, the guy that had to have " leakless"has replaced it 3 times in 30 years---- I will stick with stock pumps made with old parts

I've been saying for years that the stainless shafts are too soft. I'm the sort of guy who would rather have an ordinary looking car going reliably than a pretty one stopped.
I have been toying with the idea of making new pumps with ball races front and back and a ceramic seal so NOTHING rubs the shaft. (Even a stainless shaft would last that way.) Not sure it can be done economically though as new bodies would have to be cast. Henry didn't use quite enough metal to retro fit an original. Sand casting is slow and prone to variances while using a die means a big expense to make the die. I'd have so much money in the die that I'd have to make (and sell) many thousands of them to break even, then there is the problem of marketing etc in the US - so far away. I've made 3 for myself and no failures yet after lots of miles.

[31 Vicky]

When you have a ceramic seal, ball bearing pump available I am definitely interested. A ceramic seal just seems like the ideal way to go.

A's Always Dave

[Tom Wesenberg]

My totally stock pump with 2 new lead packings, and coated with grease, never leaked a drop in 20 years. A couple years ago I replaced the plain rear bushing with the bushing Bert's sells with the double lip seal, just to better keep the grease and antifreeze separated.

[Mike V. Florida]

Mine is like Toms but is only 10 years of use.

[Jim Brierley]

There's a guy in Kansas about to go into production with a new pump and ceramic seal. I'll let you know when they are ready.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

There's a guy in Kansas about to go into production with a new pump and ceramic seal. I'll let you know when they are ready.

Hope he uses decent bearings. The earlier version with a ceranic seal was a failure because the bearings weren't up to it, especially since most people over tighten the fan belt.

[daveymc29]

Really shouldn't leave you stranded if somewhat close to home. (50 miles or so) Remove the fan belt and drive on home after refilling the radiator. Might have to top it up a time or two but thermo-cycle should keep the engine happy if not pushed to the limits. Your results may vary.

[31 Vicky]

Thanks Jim, that is good news!

A's Always Dave

[37 Coupe]

Will the guy I Kansas sell directly or through vendors? I know at least two vendors who are showing no stock of a particular water pump so mayby this will be the replacement.If you have any contact information for the new pump and it would be appreciated.

[Jim Brierley]

I think he will sell directly??? daveumc29, I drove my tudor over 150 miles years ago with a very leaky pump. I removed the belt and used it to tie the pump in a position where it leaked the slowest, and added water every 30 or 40 miles. It got me home on thermo-syphen, and this was in desert heat!

[john in illinois]

I was under the impression Jim Ruperts x treem duty pump has front and rear bearings and a ceramic seal. It is made for alternator tighter belt use.
I have one that is about 7 years old. 15 K or so mile.

John

[braol]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

...I have been toying with the idea of making new pumps...Sand casting is slow and prone to variances while using a die means a big expense to make the die. I'd have so much money in the die that I'd have to make (and sell) many thousands of them to break even...

Oh man, you're speaking my language. If I ever win the lottery I'd love to remanufacture NLA parts...just for my own use if for nothing else. I've also wondered how antique cars would perform if some of the modern technologies were available. I'd love to put a modern, dual overhead cam head on a Packard straight-8 and see what it does...or make 1930's Cadillac performance parts for V-10's and V-12's. Oh to have buckets of cash to play with!


I always wondered what the limits of a Ford Model A engine could be...take the standard block and see just how much (reliable) horsepower you could get if money and manufacturing facilities were no issue....the whole works: aluminum heads, overhead cams, six speed sequential transmissions, throttle body EFI, roller bearing crank, headers... Again, all just for curiosity's sake... (Speaking of the Model A 4-cylinder engine...what is the last modern car to have a 4-banger and rear-wheel drive? Probably a BMW or Mercedes I would think.)

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by braol

Oh man, you're speaking my language. If I ever win the lottery I'd love to remanufacture NLA parts...just for my own use if for nothing else. I've also wondered how antique cars would perform if some of the modern technologies were available. I'd love to put a modern, dual overhead cam head on a Packard straight-8 and see what it does...or make 1930's Cadillac performance parts for V-10's and V-12's. Oh to have buckets of cash to play with!


I always wondered what the limits of a Ford Model A engine could be...take the standard block and see just how much (reliable) horsepower you could get if money and manufacturing facilities were no issue....the whole works: aluminum heads, overhead cams, six speed sequential transmissions, throttle body EFI, roller bearing crank, headers... Again, all just for curiosity's sake... (Speaking of the Model A 4-cylinder engine...what is the last modern car to have a 4-banger and rear-wheel drive? Probably a BMW or Mercedes I would think.)

IMO, the chase for more horsepower, if you want to go down that road, is endless and expensive. One would have to carefully consider why one needs to go there anyway. For me, enough is enough and more aint neccessarily better.

I was under the impression Jim Ruperts x treem duty pump has front and rear bearings and a ceramic seal. It is made for alternator tighter belt use.

I checked out those pumps and passed. They are do not have a ceramic seal. They are basically the same "leakless" pump as the others but the shaft has been hardened a bit, Being stainless steel, there is a limit to how much can be done. The seal still runs on the shaft so wear will evenually cause it to leak. It will just take longer to do so than the standard pump. Mine would have nothing running on the shaft so it would last indefinately.

[Synchro909]

Duplicate post Deleted

[100IH]

Last American 4 cyl. to WORK GOOD in a Model A was a 2.0 liter Ford pinto, but it came from Germany.

[37 Coupe]

Too many pumps too many choices.Only thing I have decided on is Bratton;oe Snyders and one has 2 year warranty other is 1 year >Why go away from both great service.

[Purdy Swoft]

I agree that a person can get by for a long time with an original pump .The original will require adjustment of the packing nut and greasing from time to time . replacement of the packing will be a part of the maintainance when needed .The only leakless pump that I bought didn't last very long . The leakless pump had a seal that could be seen on the front of the packing nut . I buy the parts and build my own leakless water pumps . Mine usually last 15 years or more but end up costing about as much as buying a leakless pump . No water pump will be leak free forever

[gdmn852]

1980 MGB still rear wheel drive with four cylinders and still had wing windows and kingpins!!!

[TerryH]

Per Tom Endy’s advice I bought a Jim Rupert water pump about 14 years ago, and it has about 14,000 miles on it now, with nary a leak.

[john charlton]

In England the Pinto was made here at Fords Dagenham plant by the million .They went up to 2300 cc . They were a "non interference" engine so no damage when the cambelt failed The junkyards were full of them but now long gone , They were fitted to vans,Capri coupes and Cortina sedans

John in Suffolk County England and Happy Thanksgiving to you all .

[rocket1]

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carbon and ceramic seals are no magic bullet,worked on dishwashers for decades that had them,replaced hundreds,they will go in time.I would stick with the stock pump,simple and lasts and lasts!