Cleaning aluminum heads...need help, guys

[phartman]

You might remember that on my last update, I had installed the rebuilt water pumps from Skip on my '36 stock LB 21-stud. The heads were off of the original '34 engine: aluminum Ford issued alloy. It seems that the pumps are now operating so efficiently that the coolant is breaking loose the corrosion from inside the aluminum heads, circulating the crud through the radiator and clogging it up.

My original thought was to replace the heads with a good set of cast iron heads. Problem: I can find plenty of heads for dome pistons, but very few if any for flattops.

I did order a set of the Don Orosco repops, but he is snagged up in some production challenges not of his making and I don't have any idea when I'll actually take delivery of my order.

So...I'm back to the original aluminum heads. I should mention that these heads have worked fine for a long time. No reason I can't use them going forward. However, it is getting old having to keep draining and reverse flushing the radiator.

SO WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO CLEAN THE CORROSION OUT OF THE INTERNAL WATER PASSAGES IN THE HEADS??? I can't seem to find anybody who knows how to clean out the gunk.

I've called some very well-known flathead shops and they didn't really have much of an answer. One guy even suggested I sandblast them. Yikes.

I've been told to have my machine shop try "shake and bake."

Someone suggested soaking the heads in white vinegar. Someone else suggested muratic acid. Yikes!

Another person told me to forget it, aluminum heads are no good, hang 'em on the wall and keep looking for cast iron.

So, oh wise ones, the powerful and mighty brain trust of Fordbarn, learned bards of the flathead, what say you? Guide me, please, and help me get my little ride back on the road.

And, as always, many thanks for your suggestions...well, all except for the really dumb ideas that might ruin a good set of vintage heads.

Thanks, guys. I'm open to ideas.

[Lawrie]

You can get a sock thing that goes inside the top hoses,this acts like a filter,they are quite popular here in Australia,the other thing you could use is an old stocking,
Lawrie

[ford38v8]

phartman, I've got your answer.

Gano Coolant Filter PO Box 1502 Carmel Valley, CA, Phone/fax (831) 659-1961
email: [email protected]
Filters out scale before it reaches your radiator

This filter goes inside the top radiator hose, is removable to clean, and I believe there is a version that is transparent to install between two halves of a split hose.

[phartman]

Dang, guys. That isn't the answer I expected. A filter. Hmmmm. Just leave the head the way it is and filter out the gunk instead. Hmmmm. I'm gonna have to noodle on that a while, but it does make some sense. A number of machinists have said, "Don't try to clean these heads- you'll create problems."

Interesting solution. Hmmmm.

[38 coupe]

I would bolt a piece of plywood onto the head sealing surface, put a cup or two of coarse blasting sand into the water passages, and bolt another piece of plywood over the pump surface. Chuck the whole assembly in a lathe or something, spin the head slowly, maybe 30 r.p.m. for a good amount of time, maybe 3-5 hours? This should "sandblast" the water passages in the head. Repeat for head #2.

[fourtydlx]

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I use soda ash[ washing soda] It is used in the make up of clothes detergent. 1 cup of soda disolved in 1 gal. of water, put in water jackets, I usee it to clean radiators,when changing anti freez. Just my thoughts,les

[phartman]

Les, how long do you think I'd need to leave the washing soda in the heads? A couple days?

38Coupe, I like it, I like it. I'll have to think about how to rig that up.

Great ideas, guys. Thanks.

Pete

[phartman]

One of the local "experts" insisted on using the commercial product CLR. Of course, when I read the label, it says clearly to not use on aluminum. Sheesh. So much for my expert bein' expert.

[Jack E/NJ]

Washing soda solutions corrode aluminum especially when hot. I'd go with the filter socks as recommended.

Jack E/NJ

[svm99]

I like the idea of the sand inside the head rotating in a lathe, attach the head to a plate welded to a shaft and rotate away. I use several different acidic and alklyd solutions in my mfg company to clean stainless steel and steel with good results though I would be very cautious of cast aluminum because of the porosity of the material. Any acidic solution should be nuetralized with an alklyd (Super Clean will work) and then very throughly flushed with water to remove the nuetralizer.
Good luck, Paul J.

[Mac VP]

hmmm.....seems like we may have some of the 21 stud heads in cast iron (with the flat top piston design). I'll have a look this weekend and see what we have on the shelf.

[OLD...BILL]

Not sure if the heads will bolt to each other face to face?? or we-er back to 39 coupe plywood?? if thay will bolt fase to face, with a used head gasket, and we are going to bolt this to the rear wheel, make a bracket ( tire and rim off) we-er going to spin it slowly using the engine in gear. what your going to put in the heads, blasting sand?, glass beeds?, ground walnut shells?, white vinger, super clean ? seal it up and run it ?? I would run it forward and then in reverse too, you figer out how long.... pull the water pump seals plywood off and flush and rotate somemore.... COME ON GUYS STOP LAUGHING .... this was a tread a while back about doing a gas tank on "backhoe" (which I have) and straping the tank to rear wheel, lift off the ground with lift rear arm. and rotate, with rocks sand and asetone inside, this was a tank with tar and hard varnish inside and was said to work fine ??
Hows this for help from the BARN.....OLD....BILL

[JM 35 Sedan]

What about using a power washer and spray into those holes which provide access to internal surfaces. I have heard of some doing this to clean crud, casting sand and other build-up from inside surfaces of a block. Might want to give that a try.
If we lived a little closer you could borrow a set of my cast iron heads for flat top pistons until your Eddie Myer/Orasco repops arrive. I can find plenty of CI heads for flat top pistons but not much luck finding the ones for dome tops. Funny how things work different like that for different people. We need to get you back in action before the BRMPW Tour!

[Jack E/NJ]

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=541573

Jack E/NJ

[rotorwrench]

If a fellow could find some one with a vibrahone vat with the correct aluminum oxide material in it, it would clean up about as good as is could be cleaned. These vats work on a similar principle to the old "strap it to a wheel" method, only in a more scientific manor. The only folks I know who have these high dollar riggs are the government and contractors that do government or civilian aerospace product repair and overhaul. You don't often see them out in the automotive world.

[phartman]

Mac, my friend, I believe ol' Dave has come to the rescue. He found a nice set of flattop cast iron heads and they are on the way from Wisconsin as we speak. But thanks for your kind offer to look in your stash of stuff.

John, I had the same idea today! Great minds indeed. The ol' car wash cleaner (we used to do that with primitive antique furniture we'd find in barns) Don't worry about the tour: the '61 is running ever so dependably. And if that doesn't work, there's always the '90 shop truck. Lots of Fords in my driveway.

Jack, thanks for the link. I just sent him an email.

Rotorwrench, my ace mechanic buddy Warren found a place locally that does this type of cleaning that you described here.

Old...Bill goes win the Rodney Dangerfield Award for his post. "Can't get no respect, I tell ya, no respect."

And by-the-way any number of you guys have PMed with the stern guidance, "Leave the heads alone, don't use any chemical cleaners, and sell 'em 'as is' on Ebay as quick as you can...." Got the message. Why? Read Paul J.'s post above, and pay attention to his concerns about porosity.

[37fatfender]

I have heard of using "Soluable Oil" in these situations. Put it in the radiator and run it for a while and flush the crud out. It should dissolve the rust and corrosion, but its hard on the rubber hoses, but that would be an easy fix. If all you had to do was replace the radiator hoses.

By the way if you are from the Richmond,VA area you might look up a guy named Willie Glass. He is a flathead expert and my have any part you need.

[fourtydlx]

I thought the heads were off,two days to leave in heads,plate the w/p holes,laying up side down horizontal in the sun. just the way i do it.

[phartman]

Fourtydlx???? Not sure what you are suggesting here. The heads ARE off. Just lay the heads out in the sun? That's it? Not sure what that will accomplish. More detail? Thanks.

[Joe AZ]

Originally Posted by phartman

Fourtydlx???? Not sure what you are suggesting here. The heads ARE off. Just lay the heads out in the sun? That's it? Not sure what that will accomplish. More detail? Thanks.

Check post #6.
joe

[fourtydlx]

Lay heads out in sun up side down,water holes up, block off w/p holes,fill with soda solution, let set for two days,then wash with water hose,small nozzel, then use backing soda to neutralize. just the way I do it.

[phartman]

Yup, got it. Well, might be worth a try....