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07-30-2017, 07:20 AM | #21 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: michigan
Posts: 1,126
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Re: Engine water leak
I have a friend who bought a model a,and the man that he bought it from had camaflodged the block right where your engine is but horizontal so with nothing to lose we drained the block cleaned of the solder camaflodged and the wired wheeled the intire area and applie regular JB Weld over 5000 miles and 7 year it is running strong probably oee of the best running and performing car in our club . This was never ment to be a permanent repair ,but the car runs so good ,and has been on many 400 mile tours with absolutely no problem . For $5.00 dollars what do you have to lose
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07-30-2017, 07:23 AM | #22 |
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Location: michigan
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Re: Engine water leak
Gerald1961 is right try it !!!!!!
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07-30-2017, 07:28 AM | #23 |
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Connecticut Shoreline
Posts: 1,823
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Re: Engine water leak
If I found a car that had been sitting for 50 years with matching serial numbers. I would do what ever I could to keep it together.
There's no going back once you change it. If you find a crack, that looks like the best place to have it. It's only orginal once. |
07-30-2017, 08:02 AM | #24 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: michigan
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Re: Engine water leak
Great point WHN !!!!
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07-30-2017, 08:05 AM | #25 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Burton, Texas
Posts: 681
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Re: Engine water leak
Follow the thread in the Model T forum. Permatex Ultra Black worked for me and others.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages...tml?1500067168 |
07-30-2017, 08:05 AM | #26 |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Eagle Bend, MN
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Re: Engine water leak
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07-30-2017, 09:59 AM | #27 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 985
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Re: Engine water leak
What did we do before JB Weld came available?
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07-30-2017, 10:21 AM | #28 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 5,046
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Re: Engine water leak
Quote:
.................................................. ................................. Interesting idea and worth trying. After reading about different methods of welding cast iron, I thought you could use one more that worked for me and others. Most restorers of old-iron have the necessary tools to perform this operation. My dear departed friend, Perry Mathrew of Helena, Montana, showed me this trick. The crack we fixed was along the bottom of the water jacket on a 1926 Model 'T' Ford that I own. We performed it over 20 years ago and it hasn't leaked a drop. Small 1/8 inch holes were drilled at the ends of the crack. This crack was over 10 inches long. Then using a rotary file, the crack was 'V'd out but not all the way through the crack. Using an acetylene torch, with a small tip, he played the heat on the crack while at the same time he would rub the crack with a piece of small copper tubing. You could see the crack was getting a copper color to it. Very little heat was used, just enough so a copper tone was showing in the 'V'd sides of the crack. Next he took some solder and used just enough heat along the crack to melt the solder. After testing the job for leaks, the solder was filed down to the contour of the block. We applied paint and the crack is hard to find. I keep antifreeze in the 'T' year around with no loss of coolant. I have no idea of the chemistry between the copper and cast iron. All I know is it works.
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07-30-2017, 06:34 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Re: Engine water leak
Copper applied in the molten state will adhere at the molecular level to even rusty iron or steel. The downside is that a fair amount of heat is required to melt the copper and that can cause distortion to the panel of casting. For CI, preheating the whole block, then applying the copper reduces the distortion - haven't tried it but that's a technique used years ago to WELD a cracked block. Heat it slowly and let it cool slowly. Placing the glowing casting in a large body of DRY sand (also pre-warmed) and left to cool over the course of a couple of days is reportedly a good way to go. Heating took just as long!
I was told about this technique by a long since dead master. I wish now that I had quizzed him more and recorded what he said so that his knowledge wouldn't be lost.
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07-30-2017, 07:24 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 112
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Re: Engine water leak
Irontite Ceramic Motor seal will do the job. This stuff has a short shelf life. Just purchase what you will use immediately. As said earlier, this is just a water jacket crack. Wire wheel it and apply JB weld to cover the crack. Press a piece of coarse sand paper into the JB weld, after it starts to stiffen up and is not tacky. This will give it a cast iron texture and hide the repair. Experiment first. I have an engine running for 20years with a similar crack in water jacket, below the water pump area of the block. Move on and don't loose sleep over it.
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07-31-2017, 11:48 AM | #31 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: SW Idaho
Posts: 970
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Re: Engine water leak
Irontite.com, the original ceramic sealer. They cover the bases when it comes to cracks in iron, hands down.
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07-31-2017, 12:20 PM | #32 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Keweenaw Bay, MI (Michigan's Upper Peninsula)
Posts: 218
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Re: Engine water leak
I fixed one like that with JB weld 15 years ago. It is holding to this day!
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08-03-2017, 02:32 PM | #33 |
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Export, PA (Outside of Pittsburgh)
Posts: 520
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Re: Engine water leak
YEA!!!! I fixed the water leak in the engine. I reloaded the water into the radiator/engine. NO LEAKS!!!!!!!!
Thank you all for you tremendous help!!!! Thanks, |
08-03-2017, 02:50 PM | #34 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 6,789
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Re: Engine water leak
Congrats!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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08-03-2017, 06:15 PM | #35 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,390
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Re: Engine water leak
JohnB15632 What did you end up doing??
Paul in CT |
08-03-2017, 06:46 PM | #36 |
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Export, PA (Outside of Pittsburgh)
Posts: 520
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Re: Engine water leak
After I received advise from Ford Barn members,
I ground a small "V" in the crack. Ah, before, I cleaned the area by wire brushing to remove dirt, grime, and paint. I used break cleaner to clean the area and the surrounding area. I uses a Dremmel to create the "V" When I was satisfied the the area was clean I mixed up some JB Weld. I got a very small about of the mixture a pressed it into the "V" that I had ground. I then spread the remaining mixture over the area, covering up the crack and have a small amount of mixture on either side of the original crack. When the mixture had cured to a point that it was no longer tacky, I pressed a piece of 35 course sand paper into the mixture. When I took the sandpaper off, the area matched to original surrounding surface of the engine. I let the JB Weld cure for 48 hours. I only have to paint it engine green and it will totally disappear. This will allow me to be able to turn the key over on Saturday!!!! |
08-03-2017, 08:10 PM | #37 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: michigan
Posts: 1,126
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Re: Engine water leak
Great very happy for,you it will hold.up!!!!
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