New Brakes, and adjustment

[jayvee34]

Just finished installing the new brakes from Randy Gross. Read and studied
the different methods for proper brake adjustment. First tried the method
suggest by Bob Bidonde, Probably me, but it did not work as I would have
liked. Next, did the adjustment method using the stick, worked like a charm.
I know all cars are not the same so what ever method best, use it.
BTW I did set the brake rods at 51 7/16" and did not move or adjust them.
Thanks to all who have contributed to the brake threads.

[The Master Cylinder]

Glad it all worked out for you. I don't use "The Board" because I like my brakes biased towards the front brakes.

[Patrick L.]

What I like about a 'board' is that the adjustment can be biased however you like.

[jayvee34]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

What I like about a 'board' is that the adjustment can be biased however you like.

Did not know that.
Make sense though. just reverse the procedure of the front and rear brakes.
If my thinking is wrong please let me know before I try it, and tell me the
right procedure.
Thanks

[Patrick L.]

I'd say the right procedure is what you want.

Originally there was supposed to be bias toward the rear.
Some like a bias toward the front more like 'modern' vehicles.
Yet, some like a neutral bias.

[nkaminar]

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I forget who said this but you can put the longer arms used in the rear on the front brakes for greater leverage. You have to add a sleeve because the shaft is smaller in the front. The advantage is greater braking in the front. The rods may interfere with the shock absorbers and the anti-rattlers have to be bent.

The momentum of the car when braking shifts the "weight" to the front tires. I think the greater braking on the rear was a carry over from the Model T which only had rear wheel brakes. The thinking at the time must have been to help maintain control of the car but you loose some brake performance with more braking on the rear.

[jayvee34]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

I forget who said this but you can put the longer arms used in the rear on the front brakes for greater leverage. You have to add a sleeve because the shaft is smaller in the front. The advantage is greater braking in the front. The rods may interfere with the shock absorbers and the anti-rattlers have to be bent.

The momentum of the car when braking shifts the "weight" to the front tires. I think the greater braking on the rear was a carry over from the Model T which only had rear wheel brakes. The thinking at the time must have been to help maintain control of the car but you loose some brake performance with more braking on the rear.

I understand now how to bias the front brakes. Mine work real well, and as long as I don't tail gate (LOL) I have plenty of room to stop.

[burner31]

I like the board because I mostly work alone