55 vicky transmission misbehaving

[rotorwrench]

All the cruise-o-matics I have had experience with in the past (used cars with plenty of mileage), did not shift correctly till they were completely warmed up. It takes a few miles of driving to warm them up in cold weather. In extreme cold it takes longer. In warmer months, they generally function normally from the get go but may have a funky first cycle depending on the days temperature.


After 60+ years a person should expect them to be in need of new rubber if nothing else. If a person knows its history then it's easier to guestimate when it might need to be renewed inside. If it's funky all the time then it's time.


If you use a "multi" synthetic ATF and expect it to be a one type works for all, Good Luck. Synthetic may work for a trans with new seals but it will likely leak from old ones. I'd stick with Type F myself. This is a Borg Warner design with metal friction plates. Few other companys used all metallic plates very long. Even FoMoCo eventually changed to composite types with steels.

[delco1946]

I disagree with Kultulz and "won't get my mind off type A". Per my manual it is recommended and have been using its modern equivalent. However, i am having systems that could be explained by slipping, bands, dried seals, wrong fluid being used in the past, etc. Currently I can't even back out of the sunken garage i rent. It hits the inclined drive and doesn't have enough power to make it up the hill. Long story short, i might change the transmission fluid as this is the cheaper and easiest option but the car is elsewhere so i can't look at it. Whats required to change the fluid? I am assuming a 55 crown won't have a drain plug, so id have to drop the pan and gasket? I'd want to have all the parts ordered and ready to do this all in one day if i go to the bother of towing the car out of the garage.So... Whats the pain in the ass factor here? Alternatively i may just to it to a shop to go over it and just fix it all, right, the first time. I admit I'm getting quite irritated over this am close to just making it the mechanics problem . with that in mind id be curious to know what others have spent to rebuild a fordomatic tranny.

[tjaybo]

$1300 a few months ago. that is with me doing the remove and replace

[rotorwrench]

There really is no modern equivalent to whale oil. If it isn't whale oil then it is something else other then type A. If you do pull the pan then you can see if there is any metal in there. This would indicate that it's time for new clutches anyway. Hopefully the case is in good condition. I've found a lot of cruise-O-matics were cracked over the years and the ford-Os can crack too. Many cars ended up in the salvage yards due to bad transmissions.

Cost depends on condition of hard parts. If they are all still in good condition, it will be a more reasonable cost. If it needs a bunch of parts then it will get expensive.

[packrat5]

I have to agree, I agree with K-Klutz here. Why is everyone so reluctant to admit a 50 plus year old trans is no longer in good condition? And added to the fact the cars are seldom driven doesn't help either. And again, use type F

[Daves55Sedan]

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Okay here's my 2 cents. If fluid is old, change it! If age and mileage is unknown, change it and keep date of change in your maintenance records.
I recommend changing the fluid to the most recommended equivalent to type "A" which is Mercon/Dexron, or Dexron III. Some large chain farm supply outlets still offer Type "A", but if your local auto parts store does not carry it, don't sweat it, just get Dexron. I have been running Dexron in my '55 Ford-O-Matic for 40 plus years and only changed it once in all that time 20ish years ago. When I did the trans rebuild at that time, the trans repair shop told me they could have re-installed the old brass clutch disc plates as they were still good as gold.
I have heard too many complaints about using type "F" in Ford-O-Matics such as clunking in gear and hard or clunky shifting.
You can easily change your own fluid by unscrewing the trans dipstick tube on the passenger side of the trans fluid pan. Drain the fluid into an oil change pan under the car. I recommend also removing the four bolts that hold the front "half-moon" inspection plate from the bellhousing. Rotate the converter until one of the plugs is at the very bottom and remove the plug to drain that fluid. Re-install the plug and inspection plate. Re-install the dipstick tube.
The Ford-O-Matic holds 19 pints of fluid. I like to use a funnel with long spout inserted into the dipstick tube opening under the hood and start filling fluid there. After filling with about 3-1/2 to 4 quarts, start the engine, leave trans in neutral and let 'er warm up. Check fluid level with dipstick. Add fluid as needed. DO NOT overfill, or you will blow it out your seals.

[delco1946]

Thanks Dave! And at Packrat, i am definitely putting miles on this baby. Until the transmission issue, I averaged about 5,000 miles a year on it. That about ties with my much-less-fun "daily".

[rotorwrench]

I'll say it again, Type F for Fords with all metallic clutches. That's what the stuff was designed for. Dexron was designed for GM transmissions with a mix of steel and composite plates. Type F will make a power glide drab better when banging it at the drag strip.