The Ford Barn

reek29 · 01-02-2020, 08:54 AM

Good morning, all.
I am in the process of putting my 1930 coupe back on the road after 40 years storage outside in Michigan. After removing the body I found that the subrails were MIA. I ordered a new set of half subrails and when I received them I noticed that there were no hole locations included. My old subrails are too badly damaged to properly locate all the necessary holes. Can anyone help me out with a drawing showing hole locations so I can properly lay them out and continue?
Thanks for your help,
Rick

rotorwrench · 01-02-2020, 09:49 AM

I would recommend the body be fit up on the frame, after it is checked to be straight & properly aligned. The cowl is always the key fit. The body rails or sills should be fit up off the cowl and the rear body cross member. The floor support rails also have to be involved. You will need a set of body mount blocks & pads. The original rivet locations are more obvious after all the pieces are fit together. A person needs a lot of clamps and clecos if you don't have them. Sheet metal screws will work but clecos are easier to work with and leave a hole that can be easily welded back up if readjustment is needed.

Check out the 30 coupe on Vince Falter's site. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/bodymeasurements.htm

reek29 · 01-02-2020, 11:00 AM

Thanks for the reply, rotorwrench. I did check out Vince Falter's site and he mentioned he had some drawings of the hole locations. If I could locate all of the holes first it would make it much easier to drill off the car and then weld the half subrail and then fit the body. Thanks for your help.
Rick

Bob Bidonde · 01-02-2020, 11:05 AM

The body has lost its stiffness, so alignment of the doors and deck lid have likely been compromised. I strongly recommend that you tack weld the doors and deck into proper alignment before replacing the body rails.
I also suggest that you take dimensions from another Coupe which has been restored. Establish a datum such as the body's "A" Pillar, and take all fore-aft dimensions from it.

rotorwrench · 01-02-2020, 07:21 PM

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Personally, I would take the body apart as the one on Vince's site was. Sometimes starting from scratch is the only way on these simple design cars. It takes a while but it insures that everything fits like it should. Vince's article on the 30 coupe has the door frame measurements. If a person has any of the rusty pieces it helps. Rivet and bolt hole locations can be taken from the frame and old pieces if enough exist. If not, just ask questions about specific parts and someone will likely be able to help.

There are several interesting articles on the HAMB about folks assembling Brookville Roadster bodies from the pieces in kit form that have no pilot holes. Most of them find the info they need from their old remaining parts and from other enthusiasts. Those that don't have a body but do have the frame, usually just guess where the holes go by looking at photos of disassembled bodies. The roadster body is a bit more simple but it's not all that different than a coupe in the way they were assembled. Many of the sheet metal parts are the same and some parts can be purchased with braces already installed.

01-02-2020, 08:54 AM	#1
reek29 Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 42	Need help with subrails Good morning, all. I am in the process of putting my 1930 coupe back on the road after 40 years storage outside in Michigan. After removing the body I found that the subrails were MIA. I ordered a new set of half subrails and when I received them I noticed that there were no hole locations included. My old subrails are too badly damaged to properly locate all the necessary holes. Can anyone help me out with a drawing showing hole locations so I can properly lay them out and continue? Thanks for your help, Rick

01-02-2020, 09:49 AM	#2
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,425	Re: Need help with subrails I would recommend the body be fit up on the frame, after it is checked to be straight & properly aligned. The cowl is always the key fit. The body rails or sills should be fit up off the cowl and the rear body cross member. The floor support rails also have to be involved. You will need a set of body mount blocks & pads. The original rivet locations are more obvious after all the pieces are fit together. A person needs a lot of clamps and clecos if you don't have them. Sheet metal screws will work but clecos are easier to work with and leave a hole that can be easily welded back up if readjustment is needed. Check out the 30 coupe on Vince Falter's site. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/bodymeasurements.htm

01-02-2020, 11:00 AM	#3
reek29 Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 42	Re: Need help with subrails Thanks for the reply, rotorwrench. I did check out Vince Falter's site and he mentioned he had some drawings of the hole locations. If I could locate all of the holes first it would make it much easier to drill off the car and then weld the half subrail and then fit the body. Thanks for your help. Rick

01-02-2020, 11:05 AM	#4
Bob Bidonde Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 3,464	Re: Need help with subrails The body has lost its stiffness, so alignment of the doors and deck lid have likely been compromised. I strongly recommend that you tack weld the doors and deck into proper alignment before replacing the body rails. I also suggest that you take dimensions from another Coupe which has been restored. Establish a datum such as the body's "A" Pillar, and take all fore-aft dimensions from it. __________________ Bob Bidonde Last edited by Bob Bidonde; 01-03-2020 at 08:56 AM.

01-02-2020, 07:21 PM	#5
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,425	Re: Need help with subrails Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Personally, I would take the body apart as the one on Vince's site was. Sometimes starting from scratch is the only way on these simple design cars. It takes a while but it insures that everything fits like it should. Vince's article on the 30 coupe has the door frame measurements. If a person has any of the rusty pieces it helps. Rivet and bolt hole locations can be taken from the frame and old pieces if enough exist. If not, just ask questions about specific parts and someone will likely be able to help. There are several interesting articles on the HAMB about folks assembling Brookville Roadster bodies from the pieces in kit form that have no pilot holes. Most of them find the info they need from their old remaining parts and from other enthusiasts. Those that don't have a body but do have the frame, usually just guess where the holes go by looking at photos of disassembled bodies. The roadster body is a bit more simple but it's not all that different than a coupe in the way they were assembled. Many of the sheet metal parts are the same and some parts can be purchased with braces already installed.