Installation of Rebuilt Original Ignition Switch

[shew01]

I recently purchased a rebuilt original ignition switch for my 1931 Victoria from Dick Crabtree, and I have been searching for installation instructions. I'm still new to the hobby, and I'm starting to think this particular install may be more involved than I originally thought. I'm a fair shade-tree mechanic. I've changed a few timing belts on modern cars and such, but the Model A is a quite different animal. So, I thought I would ask questions before potentially messing something up...

I think I found an old post on this site that indicated that the antifreeze should be drained first because the ignition cable clamp bolt on the cylinder head can leak antifreeze into the oil. That was a total surprise. Les Andrew's #1 (red) book mentions removing the bolt and replacing it quickly on page 1-202, presumably for that reason.

Here is one of my biggest concerns. Does the distributor *have* to be removed (per Les Andrews' book) for the ignition switch replacement? If so, does the distributor only fit one way during reinstallation? I've never had the distributor out of any car, and I'd rather not risk any timing issues. (If I'm getting into risky territory, I can skip this ignition switch replacement for now because the car already starts and runs well. I'm only planning to replace the ignition cable so that I will end up having a single key to start the car and lock the passenger door, which was made possible by Dick Crabtree.)

I'm wondering if the grommet replacement in the firewall is difficult as well.

What other surprises should I anticipate? I'm open to any and all words of wisdom.

[shew01]

Here is a picture of the rebuilt ignition switch.


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[alexiskai]

What I've done in the past is to loosen the screw on the side that holds the distributor in place, gently lift it out, rotate the distributor body to unscrew it from the ignition cable, and then put it back in. It should go back into place pretty easily. In your case I guess you would unscrew the old cable and then screw in the new cable before dropping the distributor back in.

[John Dayhuff]

I'm by no means an expert but I just did this last summer. I didn't drain any antifreeze, in fact your comment was the first I heard of that one. Also there was no need to remove the distributor either. I just got it threaded in and kept turning it until it stopped. The grommet is a tight fit, and I think I ended up trimming mine down under the bottom of it so that when looking at it you couldn't tell the difference. This is what worked for me, your mileage may very.

[Bruce_MO]

A couple things I’ve done...
1) spread the clamp that fits over the head stud so it’s really easy to position over the stud. It’s the last step to squeeze it with pliers when everything is in. Then I pull that nut really quickly and torque it all back down
2) I was told to not screw the cable all the way in... may short out. I screwed it in to the distributor pretty far and backed it out a turn or two
3) I sliced the grommet lengthwise down the center to make it easy to work with. Then I positioned it so the slice was at 6 o’clock so it wouldn’t be seen

That worked for me. Good luck

[Sunnybrook Farm]

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Hi, I live near Boones Mill I will send you a message with my contact info, I started working on Model A's back in the 70s and I only have the hold down clamp on the car that I took to shows for a while and don't install one otherwise as they are a pain to mess with. I usually just take the head nut off and replace it quickly as the other studs hold everything in place. If a motor has been run a good bit the gasket is sealed pretty well since I use stop leak in a new motor. I don't think you will hit too many problems, just pull the distributor off and don't mess with it, should go back still in timing. A funny story was when I hooked one up and had every thing back together, I had put the dash light on the wrong side of the place behind the dash and when I turned the light on, it cut the car off, not sure where I had it connected but strange things can happen for sure.

[Brentwood Bob]

Remove and replace the pop out can be deceptively simple to do.
Since you are intending to actively do the mechanical maintenance work I suggest you buy the les Andrews repair manuals. Les is very through and will not mislead you.
Almost as good as making friends with at least one local model a club member who can help you thru your apprenticeship.
We could wait for you to make mistakes and then knowingly correct you, but until you make a few new friends, and learn from them, buy the manuals first.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

buy the manuals first.

Thanks, Bob. I have a copy of all three Les Andrews manuals. :-) I agree; they are a very good read.

[Brentwood Bob]

I don't see how you will be able to install the pop out with out removing the distributor, and I would drain down the antifreeze first. The cable should only be turned in enough to contact the lower plate. The distributor can only go back one way unless you are very creative and manage to jam it in.
I also would consider retorquing the head if you know the history of the engine. That can be problematic too, but if you loosen the head nut for the clip it will need torquing when it gets reinstalled. But you already know all of this since you have les's manuals.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

But you already know all of this since you have les's manuals.

Nope. I'm a novice. That's why I'm asking. I appreciate your help. :-) I don't underestimate my ability to foul this up. LOL

[shew01]

Originally Posted by John Dayhuff

Also there was no need to remove the distributor either. I just got it threaded in and kept turning it until it stopped.

I'm guessing it depends on how "stuck" the armored cable is on the distributor.

Originally Posted by John Dayhuff

The grommet is a tight fit, and I think I ended up trimming mine down under the bottom of it so that when looking at it you couldn't tell the difference.

I was wondering how hard it would be to get that new grommet into the hole without cutting it. It looks like an awkward angle to work with from the inside of the car.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Bruce_MO

2) I was told to not screw the cable all the way in... may short out. I screwed it in to the distributor pretty far and backed it out a turn or two

Thanks for the confirmation. I think I had read somewhere that the cable is prone to shorting out.

Originally Posted by Bruce_MO

3) I sliced the grommet lengthwise down the center to make it easy to work with. Then I positioned it so the slice was at 6 o’clock so it wouldn’t be seen

I'm guessing I'll have to cut the grommet too.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Sunnybrook Farm

Hi, I live near Boones Mill I will send you a message with my contact info

Thanks! It's nice to meet someone who lives relatively close by.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

The cable should only be turned in enough to contact the lower plate.

Is this something I can see (without removing the distributor)? Or, is it something that I'll have to "feel" after the distributor is out?

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

The distributor can only go back one way unless you are very creative and manage to jam it in.

Is the distributor typically difficult to remove? From what I've seen in searches, it sounds like to can be a bear to take it out.

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

I also would consider retorquing the head if you know the history of the engine. That can be problematic too, but if you loosen the head nut for the clip it will need torquing when it gets reinstalled.

That's probably a good idea. I think I read somewhere that the torque is 55 ft/lb, correct?

[alexiskai]

In a normal engine the distributor should just lift off. Distributor pullers and the like exist for situations in which it has rusted or otherwise adhered to the engine due to age/neglect.

[shew01]

The previous owner told me the engine was rebuilt about 10 years ago by Schwalms (spelling?). Since then, the car has been we cared for. Maybe I’ll get lucky if I have to remove it.


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[Tinbasher]

I found it was easy to screw the bottom connector to the dist. The tricky parts was getting the switch body to fit into the gauge cluster, make the 1/8 turn and get the third screw into the switch body. Then fit everything into the tank opening. Make sure you look at pictures to get the lay of the wires. I found it really tight on my 28. JP

[1crosscut]

As far as screwing the cable into the distributor I screw it in a total of three turns. No more, no less. Has worked every time for me.

[Brentwood Bob]

A basic rule is to first unclamp the battery cables.
55 ft lbs torque on a standard head. Step at 35 ft lbs, then 45, then 55.Couple of drops of penetrant on each head bolt, I like kroil, and give it some soak time, like when you start the distributor removal.
Glad to see someone close by has contacted you.

[Karl]

It's easy. If you have to remove the distributor that is no big deal . Yes I have had coolant leak into the motor but only after I left the clamp stud undone for several weeks . The 10 mins it will be loose is very unlikely to cause any problems. The only issue I had was a re-pop dash which didn't make mounting of the original switch body with the 3 screws easy An original dash unit and no problems -Karl