Speedway’s Valve Train Components

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Looking at purchasing all the valvetrain components, 4-ring pistons and rings from Speedway - any thoughts you might have I would appreciate......

This is for a French block build, .125 over, 4” crank, L100 cam, Charlie NYs top mount distributor, 2 deuces, and heads are still a question mark .....

Thanks .....

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by TomT/Williamsburg

Looking at purchasing all the valvetrain components, 4-ring pistons and rings from Speedway - any thoughts you might have I would appreciate......

This is for a French block build, .125 over, 4” crank, L100 cam, Charlie NYs top mount distributor, 2 deuces, and heads are still a question mark .....

Thanks .....

Heres my thoughts
Since the bore is going to be .125 over it would be much better running three ring pistons. The reduction is friction alone would be worth any additional cost. Speedways pistons are actually Egge brand cast pistons. You may be able to get a better price by ordering the pistons and rings directly from Egge.
Ronnieroadster

[Floyd]

Just my opinion,
Pistons from Egge, everything else from Red's Headers. Two stop shopping and it comes with tons of advice as these guys have been at it for years.

[51504bat]

If were me I'd check with Red's Headers. An independent dealer and he won't try to sell you something you don't want, need, or won't work in your application. I bought almost everything for my 8ba rebuild from Red's. High quality mostly USA made parts (the bearings were from Israel IIRC) and fair pricing IMO.

https://www.reds-headers.net/
62400 Chiriaco Rd, Chiriaco Summit, CA 92201
(760) 343-2590

[Tim Ayers]

To add to this, I would also suggest looking into pistons with metric ring packs. The extra money on this upgrade is well worth it in reduced friction and wear. There is a measurable difference turning one over by the crank bolt with metric rings vs. cast iron.

[papanomad]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

check with van pelt.

[Krylon32]

I'm doing a French block and have been looking at Reds. I agree with the 3 ring metric ring pistons but who makes the best? Where do you get the L100 cam?

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

I'm doing a French block and have been looking at Reds. I agree with the 3 ring metric ring pistons but who makes the best? Where do you get the L100 cam?

Check with Kiwinus over on the HAMB

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

I'm doing a French block and have been looking at Reds. I agree with the 3 ring metric ring pistons but who makes the best? Where do you get the L100 cam?

Kiwi Tony on Fordbarn is grinding them.

I'll let others answer the piston question. I went with Ross, but Arias and Wisco also make 3 ring, metric ringed pistons for flatheads.

[Ol' Ron]

Not sure what the application is, but the L-100 cam is more for show, with it's rump rump sound. It need compression for local driving as the bottom end torque is missing. A Max #1 or Isly 1007b have nallot mor compression sa the intakes sooner (Dynamic CR) I think' I like *.5 for regular gas if you cam get it. I don't think the ross forged pistons for Metric rings, is cost effective for a street engine. Unless he\s planning on running Bville., ,
Love my new keyboard, much smarter than the old one
Gramps

[tubman]

I'm running a set of Speedway 4 ring 3 5/16" pistines in my latest build. I go 'em on closeout ("Garage Sale") for less than $100 (ristons, pins, clips and rings). I left out the bottom rings (they have modern oil rings in the third groove), had it balanced, and it works just fine. The main reason I used them is that I had everything but the pistons to put an engine together and price of these made it an easy decision.

I'd do it agian inn a hearbeat. I agree with "Gramps" that the metric-ring pistons are probably a waste of money on a street motor. (I didn't use a block plate when I bored it either).

[flatheadmurre]

I´m not sure that many understand what low tension actually means...the only rings that has a tension spec is the oilrings...
Compression ring (first ring only) is forced against cylinderwall by compression and not by a set tension in it...
So if you go modern low tension you have to adress windage or oilcontrol will be the next issue in your new motor.
And if you go real narrow you need tight piston to ring fit...which means you need gasporting for the rings to work...
If resistance turning the engine over by hand would be reflected in horsepower gain it would be lovely...sadly that isn´t happening.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

I´m not sure that many understand what low tension actually means...the only rings that has a tension spec is the oilrings...
Compression ring (first ring only) is forced against cylinderwall by compression and not by a set tension in it...
So if you go modern low tension you have to adress windage or oilcontrol will be the next issue in your new motor.
And if you go real narrow you need tight piston to ring fit...which means you need gasporting for the rings to work...
If resistance turning the engine over by hand would be reflected in horsepower gain it would be lovely...sadly that isn´t happening.

I hear what you are saying, but drag is drag, no? If it takes 55 lbs to turn over one motor and 40 lbs another, you really don't think that extra 15 lbs. accounts for HP loss or inefficiencies?

Also, if modern rings weren't superior to cast iron, every major auto manufacture would have stuck with them for they are cheaper and easier to install.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Thank you gentlemen - I will now go do my homework.....

You guys are the best.....

TomT

[flatheadmurre]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

I hear what you are saying, but drag is drag, no? If it takes 55 lbs to turn over one motor and 40 lbs another, you really don't think that extra 15 lbs. accounts for HP loss or inefficiencies?

Also, if modern rings weren't superior to cast iron, every major auto manufacture would have stuck with them for they are cheaper and easier to install.

You gain HP or rather loose less...
But friction from compression ring will just show running the engine...not turning over by hand.
And what kind of power increase in % do you think it will gain for you ?
Older rings ain´t easier in any way...other way around since you need break-in which means the driver can fail doing it correct...and manufacturer gets a warranty claim.
Question is more where the money is best spent on a street engine.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

You gain HP or rather loose less...
But friction from compression ring will just show running the engine...not turning over by hand.
And what kind of power increase in % do you think it will gain for you ?
Older rings ain´t easier in any way...other way around since you need break-in which means the driver can fail doing it correct...and manufacturer gets a warranty claim.
Question is more where the money is best spent on a street engine.

5% here, 5% there all starts to add up to real numbers. If I'm dumping a ton of money and time into an engine, I want the biggest bang for my buck I can get. Every component was thought out how it will work, as a whole, with the other components.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

I'm doing a French block and have been looking at Reds. I agree with the 3 ring metric ring pistons but who makes the best? Where do you get the L100 cam?

Ring availability is key - you should be able to call ED at Ross Pistons, he will work with you to ensure that he has the right rings available for a given bore size. I frequently CHANGE my bore size to match the rings that I want to run.

The 1.5, 1.5, 3.0mm ring packages are MUCH better than the old cast-iron Grant or Hastings rings. Worth every extra penny!

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

I´m not sure that many understand what low tension actually means...the only rings that has a tension spec is the oilrings...
Compression ring (first ring only) is forced against cylinderwall by compression and not by a set tension in it...
So if you go modern low tension you have to adress windage or oilcontrol will be the next issue in your new motor.
And if you go real narrow you need tight piston to ring fit...which means you need gasporting for the rings to work...
If resistance turning the engine over by hand would be reflected in horsepower gain it would be lovely...sadly that isn´t happening.

Following the practice used in today's engines especially in the area of piston and ring designs will help improve how our ancient old flatheads perform. Metric width rings already improve the reduction in drag due to the reduction in width. Gas ports are not needed to help the ring seal. As for windage and oil control the typical three piece oil control ring supplied with all pistons today easily eliminate any of those concerns. The days of using old wide and heavy rings has long past. From my experience using the modern style ring packs during my many long distance journeys with the flathead block I have found it to be a perfect combination. Adding to that the hundreds of flathead engines i have built using the modern type ring packs have all worked out really well.
Ronnieroadster

[Bored&Stroked]

Low Tension Rings: By the way, I'm not talking about "low tension" oil rings in my usage of Ross pistons and metric rings.

While these definitely have applications in racing and performance builds in general, they also require an engine that is effectively "sealed", usually has a vacuum pump and also probably has a full dry-sump oil system - and an oil pan designed with scrapers and windage trays, etc.. The result is a definite increase in HP - but not exactly a "traditional" setup, or one that is easy on the wallet! LOL

[Ol' Ron]

We still don't know what the application is. This migh be a dailey driver that doesn't see 3 k except when clinbing the interstate ramp. The cost of this stuff is getting out of hand, even for the bad stuff.