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Old 06-30-2016, 07:46 PM   #21
glenn in camino
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Default Re: New Model A owner

Start at $100 per hour plus parts and supplies. Clean it up, make it safe, and drive it.
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Old 06-30-2016, 08:21 PM   #22
Tom Wesenberg
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Start at $100 per hour plus parts and supplies. Clean it up, make it safe, and drive it.
Wait a minute..........I just got my 1953 Chilton's Body and Frame book in the mail today, and the shop rate chart only goes from $2 to $6 per hour.
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Old 06-30-2016, 09:09 PM   #23
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Tom, I had a good friend who always fussed about the cost of whatever....he always would follow up with "I guess I'm still living in the 1950's!" Maybe you knew him, too?
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:15 PM   #24
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I notice you are near Shreveport.
Next year's Texas tour will be in Victoria, sponsored by the PineyWoods club. A bit of a haul for you. Get the car running and reliable and either make the journey, or perhaps you have access to a trailer. Join in the fun, there will be 300 Model As there, and once you have done one Texas tour you will not want to miss any. We'd love to see the truck
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:49 PM   #25
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Welcome!!

I too say get it running, stopping and enjoy it.
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Old 06-30-2016, 11:16 PM   #26
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dbrist,
There are three east texas clubs: Cedar Creek, Tyler, and Autumn Trails. We don't know of a Shreveport club.
It will be worth your while to connect to one of these clubs

have fun
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Old 07-01-2016, 06:21 AM   #27
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Wait a minute..........I just got my 1953 Chilton's Body and Frame book in the mail today, and the shop rate chart only goes from $2 to $6 per hour.
Tom, I thought my mail service was bad
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Old 07-01-2016, 11:08 AM   #28
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I'm more than likely going to join the Tyler club. One of the guys I work with is in it and he loves it.
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Old 07-01-2016, 11:23 AM   #29
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To answer your original question directly, and by looking at the pics best I can... I would say you had better plan at least $10K to have it done in a very minimalist way. I would agree with the others, it is much more fun to drive in its "work clothes".
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Old 07-02-2016, 08:37 AM   #30
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Have you investigated local Model A chapters in your area. It is always handy to get some local input as to where to get things done. When you are talking about dents all the fenders are available new in steel so that is an easy fix.
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Old 07-02-2016, 09:12 AM   #31
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Instead, you'll end up trying to protect your investment. It would most likely end up being a trailer queen or a garage diamond if a full restoration was done.

Get it running and mechanically sound enough to drive and enjoy. Forget the repairs of dents and dings unless that is just not your cup of tea. If they are on the fenders, then you can replace those with fiberglass ones at a nominal cost If you have a local high school or perhaps a junior college that has a shop, then you can speak to them about letting the students do some body work and paint on the truck. YOu can likely find a hot rodder in your area who may give you a deal on spiffing up the truck with some paint and dent work on the cheap.

Enjoy the truck for what it is. It is a learning experience to drive one, let alone to own one. Get some help as you learn and enjoy the truck as is. Believe me, if you start tearing it apart to "restore" it, your likely to end up with a project car for sale at a later date and never actually learn much about owning one and actually driving it as the norm. If your uncle could do it, then so can you, so don't be intimidated in learning. Find a Model A club or go to a local car show and meet some folk who own a Model A and develop some good relationships for help.

I just got my '30 closed cab 82-B pickup and I'm learning more about it each and every day as I want to get it roadworthy enough to be a dependable daily driver. As said, the old weathered and scuffed up Model A's often get more attention than a spiffy, shined up restoration to begin with. It all adds character and charm. Good luck with it.

One idea to add some spiff to a black pickup is to add some pin stripes to it. That takes the focus off of the solid black and adds some class. You may thing about doing that as an idea before you tackle painting the entire truck.

Last edited by coupe1942; 07-02-2016 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 07-02-2016, 12:22 PM   #32
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Pardon my poor communication skills by not clarifying better in what I stated, but I was addressing "full restorations" and not just a touch up for a pickup truck to make it look nicer. There is a huge difference between the two and the word (restoration) means different things to different folk.

It is not that restored vehicles do not get driven often, but generally not anywhere near as often as a daily driver and a person would probably would probably have many more toes, fingers and noses left over to count the amount of fully restored Model A pickups being used as common daily drivers these days.

For those who like that cup of tea in having a fully restored truck, it is pretty unlikely they would risk their investment to use it as a daily driver afterwards or to rack up high mileage as the norm. There is a great place in the hobby for each, but protecting their investment as a show quality, fully restored vehicle is likely a much higher priority than simply using the truck each day as a daily driver. Who would blame them, too?

From what the OP stated, I would venture his thought is of restoring it to drive about safely and not as a show quality restoration-style vehicle. Just my own take on it though and we all have our own, so "Seriously? Wow!" Yes, in my opinion only.

I believe my original post got edited for me.

Last edited by coupe1942; 07-02-2016 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 07-02-2016, 07:02 PM   #33
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welcome to Fordbarn, home of the snipers
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Old 07-03-2016, 01:30 PM   #34
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I had to have the left rear fender repaired last winter on my pretty nice '31 Tudor. The shop charged $1400 to remove, repair, repaint and replace the fender. At this rate, you could easily have $7500 in body work and paint. I'm with the other guys on this. Keep it original, have it made safe and roadworthy. It will be worth more to you in the long run than if you fix it to near show quality.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:06 PM   #35
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Okay another question about the truck. Still waiting on title from my cousin who has to get paperwork in her name first, but I have found registration paperwork in the truck that says it is a 1932 Ford. I don't know a whole lot but it looks like a Model A to me and I saw where they weren't made after 31. I have a vehicle Identification Number but can't find anywhere to search it.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:08 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by dbrist View Post
Okay another question about the truck. Still waiting on title from my cousin who has to get paperwork in her name first, but I have found registration paperwork in the truck that says it is a 1932 Ford. I don't know a whole lot but it looks like a Model A to me and I saw where they weren't made after 31. I have a vehicle Identification Number but can't find anywhere to search it.
Forgot to add some more picks
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:15 PM   #37
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That's all Model A in the picture, except the alternator. Some states titled the vehicle in the year it was sold, so left over 31's sold in 32 would be titled as a 1932.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:23 PM   #38
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Thank you. One other question is that my uncle had used bed liner on the truck bed and I was wanting to order a new one so it would show the wood. All of the replacement beds I have found have five wood slats with a square hole in the middle. The bed in the truck that is be lined I can see that it has 6 wood slats in it. Is there a reason for this? Should a five slat replacement on the model a parts websites fit it?
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:09 PM   #39
Mike V. Florida
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There was a version of the pickup in 1931 that had a wide bed. Would you be able to post a picture of the rear of the truck showing the tail gate up?

Sorry I can't help as to why yours has 6 planks and the parts houses only sell 5.
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Old 07-16-2016, 04:49 AM   #40
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Here's some pics of the bed
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