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02-22-2012, 01:09 AM | #1 |
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Early Ford pitman arm help- clocking positions?
I am wanting to use a later pitman arm that has a tapered hole at the bottom on my 34, not a made on ball. The pitman arms I have have the 4 wider grooves clocked in a different position. Did Ford make a pitman arm with the grooves the same as 32-34 but will have a tapered hole?
Heres what I have: 1932-1934 The later one I have: I know I can simply cut the arm off the later one and tig it in a different position...but before I get too carried away I am just weighing my options.
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02-22-2012, 02:40 AM | #2 |
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Re: Early Ford pitman arm help- clocking positions?
file the 4 flats into another spline and you can clock it anywhere you want---barry
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02-22-2012, 06:29 AM | #3 |
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Re: Early Ford pitman arm help- clocking positions?
Chris,
Barry is right... just use a triangle file and make them into teeth.... doesn't take that long Zach
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02-22-2012, 06:42 AM | #4 |
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Re: Early Ford pitman arm help- clocking positions?
Ditto Barry and Zach! A small triangular file will cut the grooves nicely. It doesn't matter if those 4 grooves are a bit sloppy- the other grooves will fit very well and all will be well.
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02-22-2012, 07:15 AM | #5 |
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Re: Early Ford pitman arm help- clocking positions?
Ditto above, don't try to make them the right size, purposely make them deeper than the others, then it will seat on the precision cut proper splines.
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02-22-2012, 10:30 AM | #6 |
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Re: Early Ford pitman arm help- clocking positions?
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02-22-2012, 10:55 AM | #7 |
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Re: Early Ford pitman arm help- clocking positions?
Chris,
It is only the '33-'34 pitman arm that has a built-in ball on the end (like a Model A arm). The '32 pitman arm has a tapered hole on the small end for the tapered drag link ball stud which is attached to the arm with a low-crown slotted hex nut and cotter pin. The "clocking" is similar, but not the same as '33-'34. Very early '33s also had a pitman arm with a replaceable ball stud. Dave |
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