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Old 05-09-2016, 04:27 PM   #181
Lanny
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

I would get rid of that "fire hazard" regulator you have, pronto.

Below is the regulator I used, and as I said before, I put a small 10/32 threaded metal
tube, with a small rubber hose pointing down, away from anything producing heat.

I used this pressure regulator shown below, It uses the Holley (low pressure 1-4 #)
diaphragm,12-804, which has a replaceable diaphragm too just in case you do need
one in the future and they make the 12-803 which you can regulate up to 9 lbs.


Click on picture to Enlarge.

.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 12 804 Holley 1 to 4 lb with weep hole.jpg (39.9 KB, 4 views)
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Last edited by Lanny; 12-07-2016 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 05-09-2016, 04:57 PM   #182
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

I ordered the Holley 12 803 today, I figured I wanted a tick more than 4 lbs pressure...

I did look at the mr gasket fuel regulator instructions and found out that it was not ethanol compliant. Seems like that would be the prevailing issue with diaphragms. I know the ethanol has riqued havoc on our original carbs. I have built quite a few of the Holley 94s and 4000s and have always used the updated parts that can handle ethanol.
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Old 05-11-2016, 09:22 PM   #183
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Been thinking.... The current rear end gears in the 55 are 3.30. That is a few ticks low for a manual transmission car. I do have a station wagon rear from a 56 that has 3.55 gears in it (as i recall anyway, could be a 3.56 set just need to get the thing out of storage).

Anyway my thoughts are that it would be much easier to just replace the pumpkin with taller gears and keep the current axles and housing in the car. That way I would not have to set up a set of wagon brakes, go through the bearings, seals, etc.

So.....does anyone have an extra pumpkin with taller gears that you would be willing to part with?
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Old 05-12-2016, 12:01 AM   #184
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Which style rear axle do you have?
IIRC the oem '55 & '56 differential gears are built into the axle housing with a cover plate on the back, not the drop-out/pumpkin style that was used in '57 and newer.
Or am I confused?




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Old 05-12-2016, 12:18 AM   #185
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

I will have to snap a photo..the 56 and earlier gears unbolted from the housing as a chunk or "pumpkin" from the front of the housing, not the rear like we are used to seeing with a cover plate, etc. basically you can pull the axles, unbolt your drive shaft, unbolt the chunk of gears and replace.
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Old 05-12-2016, 12:23 AM   #186
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I will have to snap a photo..the 56 and earlier gears unbolted from the housing as a chunk or "pumpkin" from the front of the housing, not the rear like we are used to seeing with a cover plate, etc. basically you can pull the axles, unbolt your drive shaft, unbolt the chunk of gears and replace.
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Old 05-12-2016, 01:06 PM   #187
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Check out this photo...



It is a 55/56 Ford rear end from a sedan or passenger car. The "chunk" or "pumpkin" is unbolted from the front end of the car. It is similar in style to how a 9" Ford will have its gears simply unbolt from the housing, dry on the outside, unlike others that have a cover plate and all.

what I am looking for is this gear carrier/gear set for a 55/56 Ford housing as shown, but need it to be around 3.55 or so.

@dmsfrr - the reason for confusion is in that station wagons used the rear cover plate and were a different animal. I also believe the Tbirds used the same style rear end as well, but maybe it would take some of these Tbird guys to confirm that too. And then there was the police specials - i believe they had the station wagon style rear end also. Brakes a little bigger, more options for taller gearing, etc. i was always told they were a "beefier" version?
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Old 05-12-2016, 02:15 PM   #188
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Rev, I love following your thread! I'm doing something similar with my 52 Merc. I am getting pretty close to doing brake lines as you did and am using the same bracket/booster that you did, only mine will use discs up front. Years ago we converted the Merc to 3speed w/ OD and swapped the pumpkin to 4.11 gears but I think what you want to use will be fine. Can't wait to see it done. Keep up the updates.
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:33 PM   #189
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Rod Reverend View Post
@dmsfrr - the reason for confusion is in that station wagons used the rear cover plate and were a different animal. I also believe the Tbirds used the same style rear end as well, ...
Yes the '55 & '56 T-birds used the rear cover plate style axle also, 8.75 inch Dana 44. The '57 Birds used the 9in drop-out type.
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:44 PM   #190
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

All the '55 and '56 Ford wagon models, Courier sedan delivery and Thunderbirds came with a "integral" type rear axle whereby the gear assembly is serviced from the rear. All the passenger car models came with a banjo housing rear axle with a removable pumpkin. The pumpkin un-bolts from the front and can be removed by pulling out the rear axle shafts. Both types had 8" ring gears. Be careful in gear selection to make sure that you get matching set of ring and pinion as some combinations are tracking sets. I think most passenger car models originally had 3.22 ratio. In my opinion, the Y-block engine has more than ample power for that ratio.
I had a '57 9" rear end years ago that had factory 2.91:1 ratio and it was no dog. Great for cruising down the hiway.
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:47 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanny View Post
I would get rid of that "fire hazard" regulator you have, pronto.
This is what I purchased - it is the same model, just a 4.5 to 9 psi version.

(the barb fitting was not included in the box from Holley)



So, it was fabrication time with a bracket and some fitting, refitting, measuring, cutting, refitting, band-aid, some more measuring, cutting, and a final whammy...
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:08 PM   #192
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

Alright, so after a few private messages, some public messages, and my own research on that Mr. Gasket Fuel Pressure Regulator finally I caved in and purchased one - it is a 12-1803 unit. New in the box from Holley, it has a mounting bracket, screws to mount the bracket to a firewall or other stable mount, and two "self-tapping" screws to secure the regulator to the bracket.



Not impressed with the hardware - the sheet metals screws had too large a head - they kept hitting the regulator housing. Next thing, the "self-tapping" screws were too long but we did trick that one out quickly. (the fittings and the washers in the photo were from my own stash)

What I like up front - TWO outlets (for what I am doing here I can put a gauge on one end and of course the line to the carb on the other. When I got to looking at what I was going to do to mount it, I decided to take this route as you can see. Even with the air cleaner on the carb, once I install a gauge it will be easy to read when we pop the hood.

Steps taken...

Fabricate a support bracket from stock


Next, attach the regulator bracket to the support bracket (on the level )




Now fit the regulator to the bracket assembly with the fittings already installed from the bench.




Ok now for some plumbing. After removing this mess...


I bent up some hard line to go from the regulator to the carburetor. It basically goes underneath of the upper radiator hose (at thermostat housing), takes a dive to the other end and turns back towards the carb just before the passenger side head. Then a couple of roller coaster "dipsy-do's" to get some clearance and then up to the carburetor.







I did put a filter just after the pump as pictured here...



All I had on hand was a cheapie - will have to get another one before this old 55 is put on the road permanently.

I do like the clearance now though and this is a much better routing back to the carburetor. We also have more room for the connection made at the thermostatic switch for the cooling fan.



Oh and I am still sanding and working on this guy too!
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:41 PM   #193
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Got back from being out of town and just had to get in the garage for some therapy. I decided to remove all of the trim (save the rear bumper and the windshield/glass trim) so I could begin the body work and paint process.

Some photos and some questions for you fellas that have more experience than I ...

First up, the doors. The passenger door is the "worst" of the two but won't require much. I am going to treat some of the rust on the inside cavity and then paint inside, making sure that the drain holes are good.



Next, a wonderful find... the previous owner decided to hold each of the Fairlane Crowns on the doors with this goo Must be pretty good stuff. After 25 years or so they never fell off!



All of the upper window openings have rust like this:



That will be fun.

Of course we had a slew of clips and fasteners to deal with but I've gotta ask a question from this photo



Which one is original? I assume the one on top that is "square" right? The other one (like some of the other clips) simply broke off in my hand when I gave a gentle tug on the SS trim pieces.

And then how about this? Check out the paint - serious crow's feet pattern going on. This paint job is about 25 years old but the white is in serious trouble like this all the way around the car. The red is in excellent shape and looks like it could have been painted 3 years ago. What gives?



I went ahead and took 120 to a patch of the white paint on the rear quarter panel just to see, then I took it to 400. I cleaned it with thinner and this is what it looked like still, although you could not physically feel any crow's feet you can still see them.



Can I paint over this if I knock it down with something as serious as 120 and then maybe follow up with my 2K primer surfacer?
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Old 05-22-2016, 12:09 AM   #194
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

I made those end clips for the door belt moulding out of little pieces of 18ga sheetmetal, cut and bend to fit. These end pieces have a phillips head screw that pokes thru from inside to the clip. The way I made my clips was by drilling a small hole in the clip and punching that hole larger with a tapered punch, then I tapped the hole to match the screw. I did not re-use my old screws. I got new stainless steel ones with fine thread. Check fitment to make sure the bends you made in the clip will hold the trim piece tight to the door. After that I heat treated the clip to harden it and then painted it with acid-etch primer then any old enamel you have layin around.
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Old 05-22-2016, 12:16 AM   #195
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

HRR, since you have the interior all stripped off the inside of the door, why not just go ahead and pop out the window weatherstrip to make the job easier and more thorough. This would require the window glass to be removed first though. Stick a flathead screwdriver between the top of the weatherstrip clips and the door structure and carefully pry off. Locate each clip and repeat. At the very bottom on the inside of the door there is one hex bolt to remove. After pulling the weatherstip out though the window opening you now have full access to the door surface.
I suggest sanding that rust down to bare metal and also inspect on the backside of the door structure to see if additional sanding is needed there. Then clean and paint with a good acid-etch primer.
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Old 05-22-2016, 03:12 PM   #196
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

you might ck restoration specialties for your hardware as far as the white as a body man of 30+ yrs I would strip it to bear metal and start from there this way you know what's underneath if you just coat it with 2k you are just putting a band aid on it and will continue to crack chances are its enamel that has outlived itself and is drying out as stated sand the rust and treat with a metal prep you can strip it yourself if you don't mind the smell and mess or ck your area for a media blasting operation use good materials and take your time remember preparation is the key to a beautiful paint job one thing I have done instead of running a da sander off my compresser I bought a harbor freight orbital polisher and replaced the pad with a 6 inch da pad works great
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Old 05-24-2016, 07:24 AM   #197
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Quote:
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why not just go ahead and pop out the window weatherstrip to make the job easier and more thorough.
this is the plan for sure. I don't think I can really get to the rust under the sill unless I remove the whiskers.

@Frank - just so happens I have that HF cheapie and it worked pretty well buffing out my wife's van for several hours! Looks like I can use that to remove the white paint too. Not a big fan of the chemical strippers because of the mess and because so much of the good red paint is below the white tutone. What grit did you start with? 80?
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:00 AM   #198
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rev if your stripping it to bear metal you can use 36/40 to remove the heavy and finish with 80 then epoxy prime and do body work and 2k or if your doing 1 panel at a time they make 2k that can go over bear metal so you can do the work and prime the hf sander/polisher is a time saver not to mention cuts down on the heat from the compresser
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:15 AM   #199
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Default Re: 1955 Ford Club Sedan Refresh Blog

thanks for the tips
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Old 05-27-2016, 01:03 PM   #200
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Sometimes while working on this project I like to take some time out and do something to a sub-assembly or rebuild a few items to get some sense of "completion". This can be a carburetor, a set of rocker arms, oil pump, and the latest was just another rendition of a wall clock for the office.



This one was a little more challenging in setting the clock in the cavity because of the eyebrow trim, but it turned out nice and I like it.

Ridiculous price on those new Chrome Headlight Eyebrows - I am embarrassed to even say.
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