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04-23-2021, 12:24 AM | #1 |
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Location: Palmer, Alaska
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Daytona Carburetor float valves
Any one here have any experience with the Daytona Carburetor float valves in a "94" carb ? I am wondering if the actually work better than a regular needle and seat. any info and/ or opinions would be appreciated. I am having trouble with the fuel level in 2 of my carbs, especially the rear one. seems no matter where I set the float it ends up flooding , filling the fuel bowl soaking the top gasket and leaking out the venturi's . I even set the fuel press down as low as 1.5 psi. I also noticed that sometimes after the eng. has been shut down, the fuel press gauge shows that the fuel press. will increase from say 2.5psi to as much as 4.0 psi. no matter if the eng. is warm, or cold. whether it hasrun 30 min. or 2 min. any thoughts? running a mechanical fuel pump on a Y- block ford. Edelbrock 3x2 with 3 '94' carbs progressive linkage. Thanks,--- Jim.
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04-23-2021, 01:41 AM | #2 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
Jim, a couple of things may be going on here. First, no 94 is capable of holding back 4 lbs of pressure. I've heard that Daytona carb parts are good, but again, not so good at above 3 lbs. Your mechanical pump, if new or rebuilt, may very well have a spring that will build higher than 3 lbs, so find an old original spring for that issue. I see you are in Alaska, but underhood temperature still can build after shutdown, causing fuel to expand, building pressure. Modern fuel, as you no doubt already know, is formulated to vaporize at a lower temperature, which does of course raise pressure, and if it contains any amount of Ethanol, it will attack rubber and some fiberous products. Your float inlet needle valve should definitely be of all metal content. Your power valve will self destruct from Ethanol or alcohol, upon which your engine will flood. Another issue with power valves is with multiple carbs, but that is a question for someone else, as I run only one carb. You did mention that you set the pressure as low as 1.5 lbs. That is a good pressure, but how did you set it? Not all pressure regulators are to be trusted.
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04-23-2021, 06:26 AM | #3 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
Generally speaking Daytona fuel needles are good but I do like the all metal needles better. If you change the flooding needle out of one Carb. into another does the problem move? if so the needle or seat is bad. Cool fuel from the tank can be expanding in the warm environment under the hood, causing fuel pressure to rise.
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04-23-2021, 09:37 PM | #4 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
ford38v8, Terry, OH. Thanks for your input, it is appreciated.. I realize that 4.0 psi. will not work. the fuel press. has only risen to that level 2 times after the eng. was shut down. the vehicle is a 1930 model A coupe with no hood or fenders, so I doubt that any temp. increase is responsible for that. I have an adjustable Holley low pressure fuel pressure regulator that I have set the fuel pressure as low as 1.5 psi, and as high as 3.0 psi. I also do not think that the fuel pump is the problem as this problem only has come up since I changed the intake and carbs from what was on the car before. ( was an Offenhouser with 3 "94's", changed to an Edelbrock and 3 different "94's" ). another item that can be ruled out, is alcohol or ethanol. We do not have any here in Alaska. The end carbs do not have power valves, they have been plugged. Only the center carb has a power valve. I have not changed the needles and seats around yet. The floats have all been changed, replaced with nos parts. maybe they are bad . I will have to recheck everything when I get back to working on it next week. Thank you both for you help. and suggestions. I appreciate it.--- Jim
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04-24-2021, 12:03 AM | #5 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
Yes, I used the Daytona flat face float valves once. They worked fine. The customer was running 2 carbs on a modified engine for vintage circle track racing. He had a bypass type pressure regulator set at 5 lb. All of this was to stop the bowls from running dry at high rpm. The flat face needles were supposed to flow 10% more than stock ones.
At the same time we found that dead head type regulators are unreliable. |
04-24-2021, 05:30 AM | #6 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
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04-24-2021, 06:01 AM | #7 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
Maybe check out Charlie Price at Vintage Speed. He has several videos on YouTube.
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04-24-2021, 06:06 AM | #8 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
I've read an account of controlling fuel pressure rise after shutdown (and the resultant flooding) by installing a bypass line, fitted with a small orifice, around the fuel pump.
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04-24-2021, 08:37 AM | #9 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
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04-24-2021, 10:37 AM | #10 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
Alaska Jim: Try using a Grose Jet set up.
https://vintageford.com/sect_search....r-%2094-Holley |
04-24-2021, 12:30 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
Quote:
A bypass regulator has a return line to the tank and excess pressure is vented back to the tank. Output is ALWAYS constant. |
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04-24-2021, 01:31 PM | #12 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
Daytona fuel inlets....I like them .
Charlie ny |
04-24-2021, 01:39 PM | #13 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
That's good enough for me!
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04-24-2021, 05:18 PM | #14 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
19fordy, I take it that the Grose jet is used in place of the regular needle and seat? how well do they work? anyone else have any experience with them? good?, Bad?, indifferent? Thanks, ---- Jim
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04-24-2021, 10:13 PM | #15 |
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Re: Daytona Carburetor float valves
I used Grose Jet for many years when I was running a two barrel.
They work just fine and dandy with no seating problems. Google "Grose Jet". Easy to install. Look thru this info. Replaces needle and seat. https://www.google.com/search?q=gros...hrome&ie=UTF-8 |
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