JB Weld VS Quick JB Weld

[FrankWest]

Are these two versions of the same product equal in strength?

[tiger.1000]

Frank, you may get a definitive answer from the manufacturers? Blast them an email !

[Russ/40]

From my experience, the "guick" is not even close to the strength of the other. The regular has a much higher metallic content. Slow curing adds to the overall strength.

[Prawbly]

Hi - - JB Weld is an awesome product. I have used it on just about every material there is, I've even used it to make a part. Never fails. MY experience leads me to believe that the slower the cure the stronger the mend. As good as it is JB is still an epoxy. Quick epoxies all tend to be more brittle, and don't tend to mend to the break as well as slower epoxies, I am by no means an expert, but as an ex model builder I have used a lot of JB. This is just my pinion. You won't go wrong using JB Weld.
Pat

[glennpm]

Hi,

The J-B Kwik has a tensile strength of 2424 PSI and is good up to 230°

The regular J-B weld has a tensile strength of 3960 PSI and is good to 550°

With the regular, you have to contain it until it sets up. They claim in 20-25 minutes but my experience is longer. I use blue masking tape which works pretty well and can be stripped away pretty good. Both products are great.

[ford38v8]

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From one who worked with epoxies in aerospace applications, the above is very true. The reason that faster curing formulas aren't as strong is due to the heat generated during cure, which causes aeration and porosity, which at extremes can be seen as tiny air bubbles. As an example, so much heat can be generated during cure that it's common for an unattended pot to explode into flames. There are applications for both fast and slow cures, each has it's qualities.

[bobH]

Another 'un-professional and un-informed' opinion... I've had no (nada, zero) luck with 'Quick'. I've had ok results with the original.

[rotorwrench]

I've used some fast cure epoxies that have excellent gripping and temp characteristics but they are worlds away in price from JB Weld. Epoxies that are readily available and relatively low priced by comparison to aviation grade structural adhesives will never hold up as well. You get what you pay for.

[willowbilly3]

I tend to mostly use the quick because the slow always runs and droops out of where I need it to be.

[FrankWest]

Thanks for all your comments.
I am using it to fill the cracks on my steering wheel. So I imagine that the Quik will be good enough and You are right about running.

[green50]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

I am using it to fill the cracks on my steering wheel.

Frank, JB Weld also has an epoxy product called "Water Weld". Easier to work with, I used it on my cracked steering wheel with good results.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by green50

Frank, JB Weld also has an epoxy product called "Water Weld". Easier to work with, I used it on my cracked steering wheel with good results.

Sounds like a good product, but I wanted to start with something Black or dark gray.

[Prawbly]

You can color a clear epoxy. I used it in my modeling days. Craft stores have the coloring agent they use in the clear acrylics crafty thingies. Works great with epoxy.
My Dad just about created a new steering wheel for his 43 Autocar using it. You can make just about any color you want.

[rotorwrench]

PC7 epoxy is usually the prefered "filler" for steering wheels since it is more like a putty that is easilly molded into place and stays where you put it till it cures.

[Scott H in Wheaton]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

PC7 epoxy is usually the prefered "filler" for steering wheels since it is more like a putty that is easilly molded into place and stays where you put it till it cures.

I also noticed after you put the PC7 in place you can smooth it out real nice with your finger dipped in water

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

PC7 epoxy is usually the prefered "filler" for steering wheels since it is more like a putty that is easilly molded into place and stays where you put it till it cures.

It is thick, like putty? So you can just forced it into the cracks and scrape the excess off and wipe clean before it dries.....Great!!

Does it come is black or dark grey?

[bobH]

Its natural color is very dark grey.
Like in another post above, I nearly created a steering wheel with PC7. (Actually, probably less than 50 %.)
And, the 'spit-trick' (posted as water, above) works great for smoothing it. Learned that at an aerospace job.
You can file, sand, and grind on it. Contour any shape you want.
In my case, I had the rusty metal sand blasted, first. Then, just applied layer-after-layer of PC7, until I had a shape to work with. I built almost all of the hub area out of PC7.

[scicala]

Originally Posted by tiger.1000

Frank, you may get a definitive answer from the manufacturers? Blast them an email !

Right, do you think the manufacturer is going to tell you one isn't as good ?

Sal

[sunshine]

I have used PC 7 on 2 steering wheels with great success .I have even repaired gravestones with it.

[RKS.PA]

Use the PC 7 on your wheel and you won't have to do it over. Very nice to work after it cures and holds paint very well too. Once you get that steering wheel off, you don't want to be doing it soon again!!

Dick.