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Old 03-05-2020, 09:39 AM   #1
pastangnut
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Default Model A rear in Model T

Hi, Just like the title says, has anyone ever put a Model A rear in a Model T, and what needs to be changed in order for it to fit, or is a direct bolt in? Thanks, Ivan
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Old 03-05-2020, 09:51 AM   #2
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Default Re: Model A rear in Model T

The model T drive train is not very similar to the model A. While anything may be possible, I think I'd look for a Ruckstell axle to get an advantage of a 2-speed rear.

What year Model T and what other drive train changes are planed? This may be better on the T forum.
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Old 03-05-2020, 10:00 AM   #3
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Default Re: Model A rear in Model T

If you are thinking of mating to stock engine; Biggest hurdle besides the spring shackles/spring, would be the U-joint end. How it mounts to the back of the transmission is different, the U-joint are different etc. Not sure without checking might be length issue. There are work a rounds, what is your goal? Better brakes? Or?
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Old 03-05-2020, 10:04 AM   #4
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Default Re: Model A rear in Model T

Yes it has been done to take advantage of brakes on each rear wheel. The Model-A torque tube is modified and the bell end of a T torque tube is adapted. The Model-A driveshaft must have the end machined square to match the T universal joint.

Another option if you are just wanting the rear wheel brakes is to remove the T backing plates and install the flanges off of an A axle housing so that Model-A brake backing plates can be used. Then 1926/27 drums & hubs are used over the A brake shoes.
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Old 03-05-2020, 02:21 PM   #5
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Default Re: Model A rear in Model T

Thanks for the input. The main reason I'm asking is because I want to change to Model A wheels, and I have a complete rolling A chassis at my disposal. Money plays a big part here because it's my understanding that wheel adapters, or 26-27 Model T hubs can be pretty expensive.
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Old 03-05-2020, 02:37 PM   #6
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Default Re: Model A rear in Model T

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That sounds like a lot of work, or 'ruining parts' in my mind.

I have used model A hubs on a T.
The easiest way is to find a "junk hub' that has a worn out or cracked bearing race and cut it off. Use ... 1 mm? Or was it 1.2mm sheet metal to make the shims for the hub to axle shaft. Having a spare (broken or worn out) shaft to use as a form to hammer into the hub helps.
Then use something like JB weld the shim into the hub, with the spare shaft in it (lubed with grease so it doesn't get JB welded in place), when the jb weld hardens, knock the shaft loose, clean inside and install the hub on the car.
You might find brake drums no longer fit normal sizes, but a ford F100 brake drum (available new!) only needs a whisker taken off the inside centering hole to slip over the model A hub and it fits 26-27 brakes perfectly.
I hear hillman hunter (sold as dodge dart in the USA i suspect?) brake drums fit the small drum brakes and should be deep enough to slid over the hub with material to spare.
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Old 03-05-2020, 02:50 PM   #7
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Default Re: Model A rear in Model T

Quote:
Originally Posted by pastangnut View Post
Thanks for the input. The main reason I'm asking is because I want to change to Model A wheels, and I have a complete rolling A chassis at my disposal. Money plays a big part here because it's my understanding that wheel adapters, or 26-27 Model T hubs can be pretty expensive.
IMO, you can likely restore your T wheels cheaper than paying for all the machine-work for the conversion. The last I checked, you will have under $150 per wheel in spokes if you do them yourself, -and about $250 per wheel if you pay to have them professionally restored. You will easily have that in the conversion. My advise would be to sell the chassis as some seed money and restore your present T wheels.
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Old 03-05-2020, 04:44 PM   #8
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Default Re: Model A rear in Model T

The T I'm about to buy is missing the left front wheel altogether, and the left rear is destroyed with only a spoke or 2 left, and the center.
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Old 03-06-2020, 11:51 AM   #9
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Default Re: Model A rear in Model T

The Model A front hubs w/bearings will fit on the T, but the spindle is longer and will need to be cut off and a new hole drilled for the cotter pin.
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