Removing Rear brakes, backing plates, etc.

[Phred]

I needed to remove the rear backing plates for some rear wishbone arm repairs. I dread dealing with the E-brake lever return springs and the tight quarters surrounding the e-brake and service brake clevis pins and cotters behind the rear backing plates.

A HUGE time saver and frustration reliever was to:

Disconnect the service and e-brake rods at the cross shafts rather than at the rear behind the backing plates. After the rear wishbone arms are removed the entire backing plate assembly can be removed with the brake rods attached to the lever arms. No fooling around with the hard to reach clevis pins and e-brake lever return springs. Eezee Squeezee.

Also, I have learned to back off the brake shoe adjuster the same number of clicks (perhaps 20 clicks) and noting that number somewhere before removing the brake drums. Upon reassembly, just tighten the adjuster the same number of clicks (20 per above example) and your brake shoes are adjusted just as they were before dis assembly (assuming no changes were made to the brake rods).

Hope these short cuts can save others some time.

[daveymc29]

Sounds great to me. When I do the brakes on my coupe I will keep that in mind. Guess one has to keep track of which brake rod goes with which backing plate, but that should just be put a parts tag on it and write left or right.

[burner31]

Thanks for this tips, I'm awaiting a full shock kit from Ken Davis and will have to remove drums to install on the rear, I will check the rear brakes at that time and may have to do some repairs requiring removal of the backing plates.
I will keep all this in mind.

[tbirdtbird]

you will love the shocks. i have the rears but my nephew has all 4. It is such a dream i have to get the fronts

[burner31]

I heard Ken Davis shocks where the best...can't wait to get them on, as I have no shocks on the car right now, in fact the car had no shocks when I got.

[redmodelt]

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OT Why do you have to remove the drums to install this shock kit? Would then also have to remove the backing plates? I understand the need to remove the parts to repair the tracks if needed.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by burner31

I heard Ken Davis shocks where the best...can't wait to get them on, as I have no shocks on the car right now, in fact the car had no shocks when I got.

Keith,
Order a couple of these bolts to have on hand when you install your rear shocks. They are the same bolt that goes thru the radius rods. While the bolts that Ken furnishes with the kit work, these just work/look better.

[Marshall V. Daut]

I fought those $#*&^% exterior emergency brake return springs' installation for years, coming up with various exotic "fixes" and shortcuts. These ranged from a long, thin flat blade screwdriver with a notch cut into it for pulling the spring the last inch or so, to wire wrapped around the spring end for pulling. None were totally satisfactory, some actually dangerous to sensitive knuckle skin. The job was still a challenge in such tight quarters. A couple months ago, however, I tried a different tack - and it worked great! BUT - the brake drums must be OFF for this to work.
With brake drum OFF, slide the emergency brake actuating arm's shaft through the backing plate. Make sure the arm is not connected to the brake shoe assembly. It must be by itself so that it can rotate. Once the shaft exits the backing plate, put the wedge key in the slot and slide the correct return spring over the backing plate "hump" where the bushings for the actuating arm are located. Now slide the exterior arm over the shaft and wedge key, and install the clamp bolt. Add the lock washer and tighten the nut. The shaft should be free to rotate.
Here comes the neat part. Anchor the flat side of the return spring against the "hump" as normal and hook the curved portion around the lever's arm. Now turn the arm to set the tension of the spring. Wedge the arm with an angled piece of wood to hold it in place while you go back to the other side of the backing plate (the inside). Slip the emergency brake shoe assembly arm into the internal actuating arm and carefully work in the clevis pin and cotter pin it. Open the e-brake brake shoe assembly and slip it over the anchoring plate edge and install the small return springs. Remove the wood wedge from the back side and everything will snap into place. It's a piece of cake!
If you did this correctly, you won't have to fight stretching the exterior spring halfway around the world and then struggle to hook it over the exterior actuating arm. I don't know why I didn't think of this before. Probably because I almost never attempted this task without the brake drum being in place. But the drum can't be in place to do it my way. The internal arm must be free to rotate before the brake shoe assembly is clevis pinned together with it. Once you do this, all the pieces will fall into place.
Marshall

[CarlG]

Marshall,
Your suggestions are all great. Also, I found this little tool at HF that was just the ticket for grabbing on to and holding that $#*&^% spring.

[Bruce]

A loop of safety wire and a fat dowel to keep from cutting your fingers off is the prefect throw-away tool for those emergency brake return springs. I did this job last weekend and will redo it this coming weekend (because I always practice the tough stuff several times to get it right). Interestingly, I have a peanut butter jar of used right-side springs and only one broken driver's side spring. Thank Goodness the folks in Ohio and Maryland deliver stuff to Illinois quickly!

[burner31]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Marshall,
Your suggestions are all great. Also, I found this little tool at HF that was just the ticket for grabbing on to and holding that $#*&^% spring.

Never seen that at HF, I will be on the prowl for it next visit.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by burner31

Never seen that at HF, I will be on the prowl for it next visit.

It's item # 95757 $6

[burner31]

Got the shocks today, can't wait to start getting them on, one thing Ken lacks in his kit is instructions, and the pictures on the web site are so small as to be totally useless, I know it's not a rocket science installation, but instructions are always nice, just so an ol'coot like me don't miss something.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Just keep in mind with the original shock design that the filler plug will always be facing the center of the car. You do not want the shock link arm on the same side as the filler plug, meaning running past it. If this orientation does exist on a car, then the shocks have been mixed. LF and RR are the same, while RF and LR are the same. It's an easy mistake to make because the shocks can be mounted either way.
Marshall

[supergnat]

Phred,
A question regarding your tip. I am in the process of removing my backing plates to rebuild the rear brakes and would like to use your suggestion. Are the wish bone arms you refer to another name for the rear radius rods? I am concerned that the radius rods will be under tension even if I support the car by the frame allowing the wheels to drop down as far as possible. Or are the wish bone arms something else entirely?
Thanks,
Supergnat

[Phred]

Radius rods and wishbones are one in the same to me.
I had the rear of the car supported under the axle when I removed the rods.
They are not supposed to be under tension as they just locate the axle.
Peace, Phred

[supergnat]

Great, thanks for the quick response. I feel much more comfortable now.
Supergnat

[burner31]

When removing the rods would it not be better to have the car on jacks at the frame?
That would allow free movement when removing and reinstall.

[burner31]

Supporting the car on the axle, and then removing the wishbones, if the vehicle should shift, I can see two possibilities

one: slight misalignment of bolt holes when re-installing
two: catastrophic

[supergnat]

Thanks for expressing your concerns for my safety. I have the jack stands supporting the car at the frame. The wheels are drooping down so if anything shifts I should be OK.
Supergnat