Elec questions: 12V wiring; alternator; early starter; ammeter

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

My September 28 Tudor has had some changes made to it, that I will eventually change back.

It has a 12V battery and alternator (starter and horn are still 6V).
The starter switch is electrical, not mechanical.
All wiring is home made.

The front of the motor is fasten to the solid front cross member, but the side motor mounts have been changed to float-o-motor mounts. Since I have a frame spreader, the motor mounts will be an easy fix.

I may keep the 12V system for a little while, but I'd like to understand it better. I assume that the piece that is bolted to the firewall is a regulator (see pic 1,2,3). Note: pic 3 is the top of the regulator.

The wire that normally goes to the starter from the terminal box goes to the left side of the regulator. It is joined by the heavy wire from the battery, a wire that goes to the horn and another wire that goes to the left side of the electrical starter switch. The foot-operated electrical starter switch is located below the regulator (see pic 2). There is another wire that goes from the front of the regulator to the right side of the electrical starter switch. The heavy wire from the right side of the regulator goes to a post on the top of the starter (see pic 4 and 8).
Question #1 - Does this system make sense?

Question #2 - My car has a multiple disk clutch. I think I read somewhere that the early starter needs to be used with a multiple disk setup. Is that true? If so, then I must have an early starter, but it looks different than an the early starter in my later pictures (see pics 9-13).

Question #3 - When the lights are turned on, the ammeter shows a charge. I plan on just switching the wires to the ammeter (see pic 5). Does that make sense?

Question #4 - The alternator does not show a charge. I notice that there is a white wire that has been cut on the alternator (see pic 7, one side of white wire is coming from the white plastic piece, the other side of the white wire is coming from the yellow sleeve). Could the cut white wire be the reason why the alternator is not showing a charge? If not, what else could be causing the problem?

Thank you for your help.

Neil

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

pics 8-13

[kevinwalshe]

Hi Neil , You are very close to me. I'm in California Heights just down the road.
1. The part you are talking about in pics 1-3 is your starter solenoid. This was placed there probably due to the 12v conversion and that the stock "pop out" starter button would not work with it.
2. The 6v ammeter will not work with a 12v system. They will typically be pegged one way or the other. Also, that alternator probably has an "exciter" in it, meaning that it has to hit a certain RPM before it will begin charging. Get out your multimeter to verify, as I may be wrong.
Kevin

[Henry1953]

The part you are calling a regulator is actually only a starter solenoid.

[Mitch//pa]

yes its actually wired correctly for what you have going on. basically the same as a later style ford set up that uses the same soelnoid. you have the battery plus to one side of the soelnoid which is also feeding the other circuits on that post. that post is hot at all times.
the starter switch is fed from that same post thus when you press the starter switch it lets current flow to the small post on the front of the soelnoid. that in turn closes the soelnoid to let the battery juice flow directly accross to the starter..
if you ever want to bypass the starter switch say it fails just connect the hot post to the small post with the yellow wire using a screwriver and it will actuate the soelnoid to start the car.
hope i made sense...
your wiring is not to bad i have seen much worse where its actually a firehazard... i believe your safe

[Tom Wesenberg]

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You don't show the starter shaft, but I'd guess by the Bendix that it might be the 5/8", and you need the 1/2" starter "SERVICE DRIVE" shown in my picture, if you use the stock multiplate flywheel. Someone might have cut the flywheel outside diameter for clearance with the later Bendix, but otherwise the Bendix spring bolt head will hit the flywheel.

I agree with you in wanting to go back to the original generator and wiring. If you have the parts, it doesn't take long to change it back to original.

[jax55]

The white wire that was cut off would normally go to the dash light, which you do not have anyway. Some alternators depend on the resistance of the light to excite the regulator, if this is the case with yours... the engine will need to be run at a pretty high rpm to start charging. It is dependent on the residual magnetism of the rotor and stator to excite the field and begin charging.

[Y-Blockhead]

You have a 'three wire Delco alternator'. The white wire (cut off) is for the charge indicator light (idiot light). You need either a idiot light or a resistor in this wire to "excite" the alternator when starting up.

I believe the aftermarket wiring companies (Painless Wiring comes to mind) have a kit for this.

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

Thank you everyone for taking the time to answer my questions.

I removed the current starter and took pictures. I have more questions, but I will start a new thread to ask them.
I also took pictures of the original floor boards and pedal pad. I will post those pictures also.

[marc hildebrant]

Note: Ammeters measure current only. They do not care what voltage is used, i.e. 6 or 12 volts.

Marc

[Neil Mylar LakewoodCA]

Thanks Marc. Then, I assume that it has not been damaged and I can use it when I change everything back to 6V.

[Mike V. Florida]

This may help with understanding the three wire alt and it's one wire use.

http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~...ternator1.html

[jrelliott]

If you do not want to have to rev the engine up to excite the alternator, send me your email and will send you the schematic on how to install a diode and wire to the field terminal even if you have the one wire regulator. My email is [email protected]