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09-16-2017, 12:49 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 32
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Ballast resistor
I've got a 1934 ford flathead. Starts when it feels like. Run through ballast resistor. Take off ballast resistor and it starts right up. Reads 5.
3 volts a coil . Should I dump the resistor? That 302 looks better every day!!! |
09-16-2017, 12:55 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 32
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Re: Ballast resistor
By the way it's a 6 volt system and a coil relocator from Mac's
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09-16-2017, 01:04 PM | #3 |
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Location: Southern California
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Re: Ballast resistor
Don't replace the engine to solve a problem that could be as simple as the resistor. Get a good resister and try it. You need a resistor, don't run without it. Talk to some of the distributer people if you need help (Bubba?). How about adding your general location to your profile, your next door neighbor might have a resistor they could loan you to try?
Charlie Stephens |
09-16-2017, 01:09 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Re: Ballast resistor
If your relocator kit uses a can type coil, you won't need a ballast resistor in the circuit. The later can types use no ballast. If it is still using an old Ford coil then you do need one but you need one that doesn't open circuit or have too much resistance when hot.
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09-16-2017, 01:18 PM | #5 |
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Re: Ballast resistor
It sounds like a voltage drop starter (to small wiring )wiring sucking all the juice from the coil ,wrong coil ,dump the resister ,or get a 1/4 " resister from Radio shack and wire that from the solenoid /starter terminal to the coil to give it a boost .You could also clean all your connections switch etc. ,Use a alligator clip on a long wire and clip on the resister to test to see were the drop is .Ted
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11-08-2017, 09:48 PM | #6 | |
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Re: Ballast resistor
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11-09-2017, 12:01 AM | #7 |
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Location: Melbourne Australia.
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Re: Ballast resistor
Your original Ford resistor should read .5 ohms (1/2 an ohm) NOT 5 ohms. A 6 volt can type coil would generally need no external resistor. Lots of things to check out in the ignition system apart from the resistor. Like condenser, points, coil, plugs, HT leads, caps, rotor, wiring. A 302 OHV engine has all these items as well and all have to be in good order. Test each item and establish if there is a problem somewhere. Read up in some flathead books how to do it. I prefer to use the original Ford coil as mounted on top of the distributor than the can type with the adaptor plate. Regards, Kevin.
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11-09-2017, 12:38 AM | #8 | |
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Re: Ballast resistor
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Alan |
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11-09-2017, 12:19 PM | #9 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Snohomish, WA
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Re: Ballast resistor
Quote:
Maybe this explains why yesterday I thought I was losing it a bit. I was sure I checked the voltage (a couple of days ago) at the coil and got a +/- 4v reading...check yesterday reads 6v. I have cranked the engine around some between the checks doing a compression test etc.. Thanks again. |
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11-09-2017, 12:30 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Re: Ballast resistor
hopefully Im thinking about this correctly. I should be able to un-hook the wire from the dash (resistor in place or not) to the coil, then use a jumper from the battery (running thru a correct ballast resistor) to the coil ... for testing purposes. Hopefully remembering to unhook the jumper before I damage my new coil.
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11-15-2017, 04:46 PM | #11 |
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Location: Oregon City, Oregon
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Re: Ballast resistor
You may want to check the voltage regulator. I just had to have a brand new one (made in USA) re adjusted to correct specs. It was so off that the low voltage caused fouled plugs and poor spark. Drove me nuts until I found the problem.
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11-15-2017, 09:34 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Ballast resistor
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