Electric Gas cut off

[charlesea]

For anyone that has used the electric gas cut off. How has this worked for you and how long to expect it to completely cut off the gas.
I replaced the cut off with one from Snyders a couple of years ago & now find it leaking.
Thanks for a reply.

[Patrick L.]

I know a fella with a late '31, so he mounted one near the carburetor and it has apparently worked fine for years.

[CarlG]

Late '31 here also. Mounted mine just after a glass bowl filter. Has worked just fine now for several years.

[MikeK]

That depends on two things: 1. How clean is your gas? The same fine rust silt that makes carb needle valves leak does the same to the solenoid valves. 2. What are the valve faces made of? Solenoid valves come in many flavors- brass, ss, etc. and the moveable plunger may be tipped with some unknown polymer or alloy. Just because a vendor sells a valve for fuel use does not mean it will have long-term resistance to erosion or decomp from every fuel. Gasoline with added alcohol and its own voodoo blend of constantly changing formulation constituents may spell disaster for the valve.

Why don't you disassemble the valve, clean and inspect it. Most small port solenoid valves come apart easily. All you usually have to do is remove the coil bolted to the assembly and use a spanner across the thing to unscrew the actual solenoid column from the valve body.

[mshmodela]

I have a late 31' and have a electric cutoff mounted to the starter... with my gift of long arms, I can reach both the gas and the electric cutoff from the drivers side...

[katy]

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In #4s picture there is a small spring loaded piece in the centre part of the longer round piece. On similar setups I've seen the rubber(?) insert in the end of that spring loaded piece deteriorate. It was easier and quicker to take the part out of a new solenoid to replace it, rather than replacing the whole solenoid. The individual parts weren't available.

[charlesea]

Originally Posted by charlesea

For anyone that has used the electric gas cut off. How has this worked for you and how long to expect it to completely cut off the gas.
I replaced the cut off with one from Snyders a couple of years ago & now find it leaking.
Thanks for a reply.

Thanks for the replies. It has been a big help.

[kenparker]

You mean an elec fuel cutoff like this one. Mounted after the Glass Bowl Filter. Been on the coupe (see avatar) for three years and no problem ever. It is wired to the ignition switch - comes on and start pumping when the key is turned on. With the AC Evaporator mounted under the dash it was VERY difficult to turn the under dash Cutoff. Put the 'lektrik one in and now I never bother with the under dash valve - it stays "on" all the time. Never leaks.

The motor is out of the coupe currently 'cause I blew up # 4 piston. Motor goes back in tomorrow I hope.

[Jeff P. / MN]

I mounted an electric fuel shutoff on my '31 S/W 4 dr. In 2001....absolutely loved it, never had a problem with it in 9 years, and never had a pool of gas on my garage floor! Sold the car and new owner has reported the same, no problems. I have had one on my 68-a since 2010 and it has been perfect.

[MAG]

Installed one in my Town Sedan 5 years ago. Worked perfectly until about a year ago then started leaking internally. Disassembled and removed some foreign matter from the interior. Re-assembled and it is working fine.

[daveymc29]

Came with my late 31 coupe uninstalled. Put it in and had fits with my electrical connections. Fixed that and hit a switch behind the dash and it is good so far. I think it came from Snyders. Don't think I can disassemble, seems a sealed unit. Works swell for now.

[1931 flamingo]

I installed one on my tudor indent f/wall about 5 yrs ago. Only problem I've had was with it sticking when turned on. Remove disassemble and clean, re-install. I do use MMO and StaBil regularly, every time I put 10$ reg ethanol gas (glug, glug, glug).
Too lazy to open hood after every outing. Wires are covered w/loom so everything blends in. FWIW
Paul in CT

[midgetracer]

I have two of them from Snyders. One on a late 31 roadster that i installed for the convenience of not having to open the hood to shut off the gas and one on a 31 pickup that always seemed to leak gas to the two stromberg 81s on the engine. Both have worked fantastic for the past two driving seasons.

[Jim in S.C.]

I use one on my pickup. I couldn't just wire it to the ignition switch. It would kill the current going to distributor. I had to put a toggle switch to operate the valve. If there is a way to hook it up to the ignition switch would someone please share the wiring diagram with me.

[Cave]

I've seen many favorable comments in several threads over the years so I installed the 6v one (Snyder's) and really like the convenience, but it seems to get hot (160-180F after just a few miles). Is that normal? Thanks, as always, Cave

[1931 flamingo]

Why are you measuring how hot the solenoid gets??? It's right next to the exhaust manifold.......................................... ....
Paul in CT

[john in illinois]

I put one on my Tudor about 6 years ago. I have a heated shop and did not want to risk a fuel leak. I have had no problems.

John

[john in illinois]

Mine does get warm when on.

John

[Cave]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Why are you measuring how hot the solenoid gets??? It's right next to the exhaust manifold.......................................... ....
Paul in CT

I just happened to touch it and was quite surprised by its temp... and mine isn't next to the manifold, it's down at the carb inlet next to the hood louvers.

[rocket1]

Jim in S C you have to hook it up to a relay which has a hot wire from the battery and your ign. switch is only closing a set of points,i guess something like the horn relay I think that someone sells.Possibly someone can post a wiring diagram.

[lorenallen]

I installed one from Snyders and I had problems with not enough flow to keep the car running. I was trying to stop gas from leaking when the car sat overnight. It turns out my real problem was a faulty shutoff valve which was less than a year old. After the car kept stalling I gave up and removed the solenoid - it was a total was of over $80 in my opinion. I now close the manual shutoff valve when ever I stop the car for any period if time and I have had problems (after installing a new shutoff valve).

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by lorenallen

I installed one from Snyders and I had problems with not enough flow to keep the car running. I was trying to stop gas from leaking when the car sat overnight. It turns out my real problem was a faulty shutoff valve which was less than a year old. After the car kept stalling I gave up and removed the solenoid - it was a total was of over $80 in my opinion. I now close the manual shutoff valve when ever I stop the car for any period if time and I have had problems (after installing a new shutoff valve).

New shutoffs can be bad out of box, I have had very good luck ordering from Brattons, made in the U.S. guaranteed for 3 years. If not currently using, recommend using the pencil type gas filter that mounts into the inlet of the Shutoff valve. #1 issue that ruins good shutoffs is debris/grit/rust from the tank getting into and ruining the valve.


https://www.brattons.com/fuel-tank-filter-screen.html
https://www.brattons.com/fuel-shut-o...-gas-tank.html

[30 Closed Cab PU]

The other issue you have is the carb float valve is not seating properly. I have had good luck with the Viton tip, and adding Marvel Mystery oil to the gas on every tank to counteract gasohol damaging the Viton tip.


Also inspect the float where the float valve rests/pushes on the float to seat the float valve. After a long period of time the float valve can wear into the float, stick, and the valve will not close/seat properly.


Get eh shutoff working properly. Then leave it on overnight and then concentrate on the float valve.


Either way it is a good idea to turn off the shutoff If both shutoff and float valve are working properly, should not have an issue.


Additionally some like to run the carb dry after turning off the shutoff.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by lorenallen

I now close the manual shutoff valve when ever I stop the car for any period if time and I have had NO problems (after installing a new shutoff valve).

Are you missing a word (NO) in your post?

[Badpuppy]

Originally Posted by Jim in S.C.

I use one on my pickup. I couldn't just wire it to the ignition switch. It would kill the current going to distributor. I had to put a toggle switch to operate the valve. If there is a way to hook it up to the ignition switch would someone please share the wiring diagram with me.

Could be done with a horn relay, but the ignition switch provides only intermittent ground through the points. Stick with your toggle switch.

[Cave]

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Originally Posted by Jim in S.C.

I use one on my pickup. I couldn't just wire it to the ignition switch. It would kill the current going to distributor. I had to put a toggle switch to operate the valve. If there is a way to hook it up to the ignition switch would someone please share the wiring diagram with me.

This is the instruction sheet that came with my cut-off. It simply changes the switched wire on the coil from the ground (points) to the hot and then you can add the solenoid on that same switched lead. Took me about 15 minutes.
Ignition3.jpg

[katy]

Has anyone measured or know the current draw on one of these solenoids?

[barkleydave]

We have a couple. One has been on a Slant since the mid 90's no problems.
Wired to main cut off switch circuit so on when you turn on switch and off... well ya know.

[1931 flamingo]

I doubt if it it draws very much at all, just a small solenoid.
Paul in CT

[jw hash]

I have an electric shut off in my late 160A and it has float-a-Motors in it( to which I do NOT like). the gas line broke three times. I was very lucky I caught it and carried a spare stock gas line. I redid the gas line and ran a stainless braided hose from the switch to the Carburetor. I have ran it for over 10,000 miles without any problems.

[Cave]

Originally Posted by katy

Has anyone measured or know the current draw on one of these solenoids?

The Snyder economy solenoid is marked 6v 6w (which equals 1 amp).

[Geo.T]

About eight years ago I filled my Roadster gas tank, then hurried home to park it in my three car garage before going for dinner. I always shut off the fuel valve when parking but was in a hurry this time and forgot. Came back a few hours later and had a full tank of gas on my garage floor. The float had a pin hole in it and leaked the gas. I called our local rural fire department for help and they came to my rescue, but not before some very anxious moments.
I immediately installed an electric shut-off valve. I don't remember who I bought it from (probably Snyders) and installed it in the passenger compartment between the tank and the firewall. Whenever I turn the key on I hear it click telling me it is still working fine. Not a moments trouble and great peace of mind. I still shut off the manual valve and have still not forgotten my earlier experience.
Be safe,
George

[Karl]

Never tried one All my A's have been 1930 or earlier so when I stop the car I just turn off the gas valve which conveniently is under the steering wheel on a RHD. However if I ever has an indented firewall A then I think I would be sorely tempted to install an electric shut off rather than lifting the hood every time I parked the car

[katy]

Originally Posted by Cave

The Snyder economy solenoid is marked 6v 6w (which equals 1 amp).

Thanks.

[Dave in MN]

I wanted the electric shutoff so I could eliminate going around to the right side, lift the hood and open or close the gas valve on my S/W Town Sedan. I purchased one from Snyder's last year and installed it on the S/W in prep for a road trip we took early this year along the east coast down to the Keys and back up the Gulf side. The solenoid heated up and caused a dead short on a busy street in downtown Key West. A bit of confusion and commotion but the issue was soon found as it was so hot I burned my hand when I gave it the "how hot is it" test. I removed it and made the assumption that they were just junk. I did purchase the "economy" one they offer but it was still about $80.00.
From all the positive trouble free posts on this thread about these valves, I should give it another try. Maybe I will spend the extra $45 and get the more expensive one.
Good Day!

[condor12$]

Thks for diagram!!

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

I wanted the electric shutoff so I could eliminate going around to the right side, lift the hood and open or close the gas valve on my S/W Town Sedan. I purchased one from Snyder's last year and installed it on the S/W in prep for a road trip we took early this year along the east coast down to the Keys and back up the Gulf side. The solenoid heated up and caused a dead short on a busy street in downtown Key West. A bit of confusion and commotion but the issue was soon found as it was so hot I burned my hand when I gave it the "how hot is it" test. I removed it and made the assumption that they were just junk. I did purchase the "economy" one they offer but it was still about $80.00.
From all the positive trouble free posts on this thread about these valves, I should give it another try. Maybe I will spend the extra $45 and get the more expensive one.
Good Day!

Buy 2, keep a spare in the car?

[1931 flamingo]

I had one on my indent Tudor for 9 years. The only problem I had was a couple times in the past couple of years it had to be disassembled (on the car) because the sol would stick, gummed up from the crap gas even though I always used MMO and StaBil or SeaFoam. FWIW
Paul in CT

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Late '31 here also. Mounted mine just after a glass bowl filter. Has worked just fine now for several years.

4 years after my first post (#3) still going strong with no problems.