Voltage Reduction/Resistor ?

[rbone]

I just had Skip rebuild several of my old coils - one for my '34 motor and 2 for my 59ab. I talked to him today about external resistors and decided to look around to see what is available these days. Before I buy another of the ballast style, I noticed a thread on an unrelated forum about Buck Power Converter Step Downs and saw that they have several choices in output voltage, including 3.7VDC. Skip advised me to keep the voltage going to the coil between 3.5 and 4 volts - irrespective of the input voltage (12 or 6). You can buy several different types on amazon ranging in price from about $5 to about $20+.

So, my question is: has anyone used one of these types of voltage reducers and if so, would you recommend it?

My car is a '34 and it is a driver. 59ab motor, 12V, positive ground. I have the 21 stud '34 motor on a stand.

Thanks all,
Ron

[flatheadmurre]

Originally Posted by rbone

I just had Skip rebuild several of my old coils - one for my '34 motor and 2 for my 59ab. I talked to him today about external resistors and decided to look around to see what is available these days. Before I buy another of the ballast style, I noticed a thread on an unrelated forum about Buck Power Converter Step Downs and saw that they have several choices in output voltage, including 3.7VDC. Skip advised me to keep the voltage going to the coil between 3.5 and 4 volts - irrespective of the input voltage (12 or 6). You can buy several different types on amazon ranging in price from about $5 to about $20+.

So, my question is: has anyone used one of these types of voltage reducers and if so, would you recommend it?

My car is a '34 and it is a driver. 59ab motor, 12V, positive ground. I have the 21 stud '34 motor on a stand.

Thanks all,
Ron

Voltage spikes from ignition coil and generator...nothing electronics like...especially cheap electronics !
I wouldn´t make my ride depend on a voltage converter made by who knows...
Why make things complicated...a resistor is a notch more complicated then a wire...find a good quality one and drive it without worries !

[petehoovie]

What murre said ^

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by rbone

My car is a '34 and it is a driver. 59ab motor, 12V, positive ground. I have the 21 stud '34 motor on a stand.

Thanks all,
Ron

Being you're 12 volts just a standard stock ford resistor won't get you there. Theoretically you could run a ford 57ish ceramic resistor (knocks 12volts to 6 volts) in front of the regular resistor (6 to 4v).



macs, ebay, farm implement. Google availability.
https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/coi...gaAmx5EALw_wcB



Just a thought.

[aussie merc]

FYI little known fact your average ignition ballast resistor actually takes anything up to 60 seconds to get to full resistance as it requires current flow so it actually supplies line voltage during starting giving a boost to the spark when starting

[Tinker]

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Yblocks have been using the ceramic reducer for a while/orginally. Yblock coils are 6 volt. Resistance in the coil added to get to that 4v.


Yes the early resistor must heat up.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

ru11t IS WHAT WE HAVE USED FOREVER ......STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS

[rotorwrench]

If the old original ballast is still functional then a person wouldn't need to change if the car is operated on 6-volt as original. If the car has been converted to 12-volt then the one that Bubba mentioned would be a good replacement for the original. There is no point in running two ballast resistors on the ignition circuit.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

ru11t IS WHAT WE HAVE USED FOREVER ......STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS

Is that for running a 6v coil on 12v? Do you recommend the same on an original Ford coil looking for around 4v?

•#ICR23 – 1.20 ohms
•#ICR11 – 1.35 ohms
•#ICR34 – 1.40 ohms
•#ICR37 – 1.60 ohms
•#ICR35 – 1.80 ohms
•#ICR13 – 1.82 ohms

[rbone]

Thanks Jim! Is that for getting 4V to the coil on a 12V system or a 6V system? I have one of both!

Thanks so much to you and to Skip for all you do to help us out!
Ron