Ignition Switch Bezel

[Darrell S]

Could someone enlighten me on how the stainless bezel for the ignition switch attaches? I can't seem to get mine to stay on.

[rg130]

It snaps on. The ring spring holds it in place.

[Darrell S]

I have been trying to snap it on without success. Will try again, thanks.

[V12Bill]

If it is like the one on my 1950 F1, you have to get the spring wire ends in a location on the lock housing where the ends are between the raised sections

[fjz]

If you are dealing with a column switch make sure you have the wave spring washer on under the switch mount.

[rotorwrench]

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1948 was the change over year for ignition switches in the passenger cars. Pickups were different. 1947 or earlier still had the key to unlock the toggle switch. The 1948 switch was different. What car or truck are we wanting information for? Is it your avatar car or no?

Change was actually in late 1947 production.

[Darrell S]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

1948 was the change over year for ignition switches in the passenger cars. Pickups were different. 1947 or earlier still had the key to unlock the toggle switch. The 1948 switch was different. What car or truck are we wanting information for? Is it your avatar car or no?

Yes it is.

[rotorwrench]

The early F1 pickups & 49 Merc shared this switch & bezel but they changed the bezel in 1950 and that 0A- prefix part number became the replacement part for all applications that had this switch. The wave spring can be a stiff bugger. The later types from 50 & 51 used a large coil spring & bezel just for it but they were still a push & rotate to lock type set up. I wonder if your bezel is worn or possibly the ears on the switch body. There are new replacement parts available. Perhaps they might have a better fit & function but I don't know.

To Add: I looked at the bezel and see that it is a snap in type (not twist & lock) but the spring ring inside there has bent ends that can get in the way of the switch body tabs. Someone else in post #4 mentioned arranging the switch tabs to miss the bezel spring ring ends before snapping it in place.

I can see why they changed this set up to the twist & lock set up several years later. It looks like it can be a dozen cuss words shy of a perfect fit.

[Darrell S]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

The early F1 pickups & 49 Merc shared this switch & bezel but they changed the bezel in 1950 and that 0A- prefix part number became the replacement part for all applications that had this switch. The wave spring can be a stiff bugger. The later types from 50 & 51 used a large coil spring & bezel just for it but they were still a push & rotate to lock type set up. I wonder if your bezel is worn or possibly the ears on the switch body. There are new replacement parts available. Perhaps they might have a better fit & function but I don't know.

To Add: I looked at the bezel and see that it is a snap in type (not twist & lock) but the spring ring inside there has bent ends that can get in the way of the switch body tabs. Someone else in post #4 mentioned arranging the switch tabs to miss the bezel spring ring ends before snapping it in place.

I can see why they changed this set up to the twist & lock set up several years later. It looks like it can be a dozen cuss words shy of a perfect fit.

This one has the coil spring on the housing that is supposed to keep it tight after it is twisted and in position.

I am thinking that the ears on the switch body are worn. I can hear and feel the bezel snap on but it just doesn't want to stay put.

[tubman]

I don't know how similar they are, but I had similar problem with my '51. There was a stainless bowl-shaped bezel with a spring behind it. You put the switch in from the back and insert the front plastic piece and turn. The "ears" that keep it all together were worn, and would only engage if everything was "just so", and then would come apart when I hit a bad bump. I was in the process of building the "ears" up with "JB Weld" when an NOS plastic part popped up on eBay for $8 plus shipping. I did finish "repairing" the original and think it would work OK, but I remember from my racing days "Run your best parts".