NewRex Ignition Switch with Auxiliary Position

[cdlamb]

I am looking for a wiring diagram for a NewRex three pole ignition switch for a Model A Ford. This is an upgrade replacement for the standard Pop-Out switch. The Poles are labeled BAT, Coil, and Acc. There is no direct to Battery connection in the standard wiring of a Model A. This Switch Allows the Battery Terminal to connect to both the Coil and Acc positions when in the run position and Battery to the Acc position when in the Aux position.
The Pop-Out Switch connects to the Distributor through the shielded cable and to the AMP meter on the other terminal which feeds through the coil. If wiring the Nurex through the Coil to connect to the BAT terminal on the switch, will this in effect act as the direct Battery connection for the ACC terminals to work in both the Run and AUX positions? Help!

[MikeK]

To use the Acc position on the switch requires wiring the Model A differently.

A replacement switch with an Acc terminal works like this- The BAT terminal connects to BOTH the coil and Acc terminal when turned to the on or run position. In the Acc position BAT is connected to only Acc.

In an unmodified A the battery goes to the coil first, then from the coil to the Popout switch and then to the dizzy with the points and condenser.

Your replacement switch will work if you connect the wire from the coil to the switch BAT terminal and then the "Coil" terminal on the switch to the Dizzy. BUT you cannot use the Acc terminal if wired that way, as any accessory you connect to it will be in series with the coil, not directly connected to the battery.

To also have use of the Acc terminal you must first run from the battery /power source to the switch BAT, then the switch 'Coil' to the side of the coil the original feed went to, then from the other side of the coil that originally went to the pop-out you need to loop through the terminal box with no switch connection and go directly to the Dizzy.

Curious as to why you refer to this as an "upgrade". You lose the originality of the vehicle, and can no longer turn the car on, remove the keys, and later shut it of and lock the ignition simply by pushing the 'popout' back in. Now you are a slave to dangling keys. Although you gain the Acc terminal you also lose the original wiring scheme and wiring harness connections. Not good unless you are experienced at vehicle electrical systems as the original wiring diagram in the instruction book is now useless to the average guy for running down a problem. To me it is the opposite, a downgrade that also requires other modifications.

[Curtis in MA]

My disconnect switch is under the hood. So to go someplace I have to open the hood, turn the switch on, close the hood. When I get where I'm going I have to open the hood, shut the switch, close the hood. When I leave I have to open the hood, turn on the switch, close the hood. When I get home I have to open the hood, disconnect the switch, close the hood.


Having all on the key would make life easier every day. So maybe trouble shooting is not an obstacle.

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by Curtis in MA

My disconnect switch is under the hood. So to go someplace I have to open the hood, turn the switch on, close the hood. When I get where I'm going I have to open the hood, shut the switch, close the hood. When I leave I have to open the hood, turn on the switch, close the hood. When I get home I have to open the hood, disconnect the switch, close the hood.

Having all on the key would make life easier every day. So maybe trouble shooting is not an obstacle.

I feel your pain. That is why I mounted the cutoff on both my A's in the center cross-member to disconnect the battery to frame(earth) cable. Just lift the rug in front of the seat, even while seated, and twist the switch.

With the original popout in place, all my accessories are a separate fuse to a hidden switch then out. Shutting off the battery disconnect switch kills everything, provided the generator/alt is not still spinning! No up/down, open/close hood fuss.

[Curtis in MA]

The wiring change seems simple enough.
First disconnect the battery!
Take the two wires on the ignition switch and connect them together.
The wire that goes from the ammeter back to the right side of the terminal box, disconnect from the ammeter and connect to the ACC on the new switch.
Connect a short wire from the ammeter to the BAT.
Connect another wire from the Coil position to the actual coil (or to the wire that went from the terminal box to the coil).

[old31]

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I have the same switch and I hate it. It is possible, because I have done it , to turn off the switch but accidentally go to far to the left towards ACC.

When you do that, the ignition is back on, even though you intended to turn it off.

I have an electronic ignition so leaving the switch on for long periods is not good.

[Bob C]

The ignition shouldn't be on when it's turned to ACC.

[rotorwrench]

The accessory position shows that this is a modern type automotive switch. Model A cars don't have much for accessories unless it has a Ford-Lite spot light or an electric windshield wiper. There are no electrical instruments to be connected. Head lamps pull too much amperage to be related to an ignition switch so most old Fords have them hard wired to the battery and same for the horn.

The accessory side of the switch is for connection to accessories only. If you have none then leave that terminal bare. Most model A cars would have a wire to the battery power such as the ammeter wire or a hard wire direct to the battery. The ignition wire is just that. It should be connected to the correct polarity post on the coil only.

The elimination of the pop out will require a new coil connection to the distributor for the breaker points. Insure correct polarity and connect a wire from the proper coil terminal to the breaker points.

Ford used the Electro-Lock switch to armor the breaker wire to the coil and prevent easy hot wiring of the ignition. Changing to a basic ignition switch makes the car easier to hot wire.