Hydraulic Brake Conversion on 36 Passenger

[Mr. Will]

I am converting my 36 Cabriolet to hydraulic brakes. I have the brackets for the front flexible lines that mount to the frame but, I have a question for the 36 guys that have done this conversion. Normally you would just cut a hole through the inner fender to allow access for the flex line mount 8-1/2" aft of the front crossmember. This is how I did it on my 35 and my 39 is stock this way but, the inner fenders on 36 have louvers and in order to cut that hole you would be cutting off the end of one louver so you would have to remove one louver or, I guess you could cut the hole so it took out part of two louvers. The other option is go through the frame but, this creates yet another issue. The X member comes in there so the frame is doubled up. That can be remedied by drilling a larger hole for the flex line to pass through the outer frame and then a 5/8" hole for the flex line to butt up to on the X member and then the C clip to hold the line in place. Also this puts the T block behind the steering box mount in the C channel. I swapped out the steering box to a 37-39 box so pluming it with the mounting bracket out is no big deal but could be a bitch for service later on.
Just wondering how others approached this issue. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks Dan

[mrtexas]

Just looked on my 36. I went thru frame in front of steering box. End of hose goes thru frame and held by clip. Tube goes in end of hose.

[johndee138]

Early V8 ford garage, Richard Lacey
I bought his whole kit for my 36, It was WELL worth the cost and everything works as it should. Can't say enough good things about it.

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by mrtexas

Just looked on my 36. I went thru frame in front of steering box. End of hose goes thru frame and held by clip. Tube goes in end of hose.

mrtexas,
That is what I was wondering if I could go through the frame in front of the steering box mount and not have a interference issue with the original lever shocks. My shocks are out being rebuilt so I don't have anything to mock up.

Thanks for your input.

[Mr. Will]

Figured I would give a update on my hydraulic brake conversion. I like to use as much original parts as possible so I purchased a set of original 39 pedals from another member here and used the 39 clutch arm as well. Of course my master and wheel cylinders I purchased new. As on my 35 I left the battery on the drivers side but did use a pressure switch from a Jeep Wrangler that has the plug that comes in from the side instead of the end which just gives enough room. I prefer to make all my own lines using cooper nickle 1/4" brake line. One 25' roll does it with a couple feet to spare. I use a tubing straightener and the copper nickle is really nice to work with. I had a spare set of 39-42 backing plates so that is the route I went. I used all the hardware for 39 emergency brake as well then made a bracket that bolts up to the torque tube between the radius rods for a rod to attach to the equalizer. Then used the old brake actuator cutting all the unneeded arms off to operate the parking brake rod. I had a spare 36 axle that I sent to Greg Haynes at Anson Axles to be dropped then reversed the eyes on both front and rear main leaves with new shackles I also switched out the 3:78 gears for a set of original 3:54's I picked up in Hershey last month.
While I had the front end out I figured it was a good time to install the 37 steering box I had so I rebuilt it as well. I drilled out the rivits for the mounting plate of the original box then used a air chisel to knock off the head. The vibration from the air chisel caused the radiator to start leaking so I sent the rad to US Radiator and had it recored and they did a beautiful job. Also sent my shocks to another member here (Mikes Speed Shop) for rebuild. I just about have it all ready to go back together here are a few pics.

[Mr. Will]

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Just finishing this project up, got my E- brake figured out. Used a 1-1/4" hole saw through the back of the X member and used a rod from the rear mechanical brakes cut down for the pull rod. Here are a few pics.

[40cpe]

Nice work

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

Nice work

Thanks for the complement.

[Kahuna]

Very nice job
Well done
Jim

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Very nice work ...

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

Very nice job
Well done
Jim

Originally Posted by TomT/Williamsburg

Very nice work ...

Thanks guys, should have it wrapped up by next week.

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by Mr. Will

Thanks guys, should have it wrapped up by next week.

you work faster than I do.

[Bursonaw]

In my 36 Roadster the brakes had been converted to hydraulic brakes sometime in the 50’s using a 39 pedal assembly, but I never liked the way they they did the emergency brakes. After seeing this post I used it for the inspiration to modify my car. The original mechanical brake cross shaft was still in my car so I just needed to drill a hole in the cross member. I used a Model A mechanical brake rod and bent and cut it to length. The emergency brakes work better than they ever did before. Special thanks to “Mr. Will” for the original post and inspiration!

[Tinker]

Yes using the original linkage is a good idea. No reason to cut it all out with a conversion. 39 pedals in my 36 coupe too. Some are going to freak on the copper lines you have.

On my 38 truck I used ss pre bend lines from Lacy for most of it (has spiral rock guards on anything under the frame for...well rocks. super stuff, all the fixtures too). Being I used a 39 pedal setup I made up some other ss steel pieces to make up the rest to the master cylinder. E-brake using the original setup.



Never run without a good e-brake setup.

[Bursonaw]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Yes using the original linkage is a good idea. No reason to cut it all out with a conversion. 39 pedals in my 36 coupe too. Some are going to freak on the copper lines you have.

On my 38 truck I used ss pre bend lines from Lacy for most of it (has spiral rock guards on anything under the frame for...well rocks. super stuff, all the fixtures too). Being I used a 39 pedal setup I made up some other ss steel pieces to make up the rest to the master cylinder. E-brake using the original setup.



Never run without a good e-brake setup.

Copper lines are vacuum lines for the overdrive shift canister.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Tinker]

No offense meant, the one off the block looked copper. All good, my mistake.


I run new copper fuel lines.

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by Bursonaw

In my 36 Roadster the brakes had been converted to hydraulic brakes sometime in the 50’s using a 39 pedal assembly, but I never liked the way they they did the emergency brakes. After seeing this post I used it for the inspiration to modify my car. The original mechanical brake cross shaft was still in my car so I just needed to drill a hole in the cross member. I used a Model A mechanical brake rod and bent and cut it to length. The emergency brakes work better than they ever did before. Special thanks to “Mr. Will” for the original post and inspiration!

Glad it was of some help.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by johndee138

Early V8 ford garage, Richard Lacey
I bought his whole kit for my 36, It was WELL worth the cost and everything works as it should. Can't say enough good things about it.

Yep - he is definitely a super detail oriented person - his "kits" are the best - down to every last washer, every little line, every nut, bolt and bracket.

I put his whole 32 conversion on my 32 Cabriolet (other than some special backing plates) - wonderful work by Richard! (Not inexpensive - but QUALTIY the whole way!).