DIY Blasting Cabinet

[Rich in Tucson]

Howdy, can y'all please recommend a source for a decent sand/bead blasting gun that I can incorporate into a home-made blasting cabinet; a siphon type gun that doesn't suck like those I have seen at HF. Thanks.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Eastwood has one, item #22009A -- $29.99. Mine is from TIP; however, they may have gone out of business.

This may also help someone building a DIY blasting blasting cabinet. I posted this about 10 years ago -- January 12, 2000 20:43:5 -- on the other forum, after building one.

Hi John,

Blasting cabinets can be expensive -- then there is size to consider -- for wheels? fenders? doors?-- for one or two cars?
TIP adverised in Hemmings Motor News has a catalog where one can get plans to build a blasting cabinet using their plans and their parts to use with the cabinet.
Instead of building a blasting cabinet, I built a three (3) sided contraption similar to a 32" wide, one seat truck cab out of scrap plywood -- no floor, no back of cab -- no vacuum pipe, no blasting media collector, no sealed cabinet doors, no lights -- no limit on sizes of parts!
Start by making a comfortable simple, sturdy wood bench out of 1 x 12's, about 18" wide, 18" high, and 11" minimum front to back. Sit on this bench to verify the following dimensions cut out of 1/4" or thicker plywood, or wood paneling.
Cut the first panel for the vertical, bottom front, (set out vertically in front of your toes, similar to a truck firewall), 32" wide x about 27" high, so the top of this panel is above and clears your knees and thighs.
Cut the second panel 32" wide x about 22" front to back, for a horizontal table surface above the first panel, (above your knees and thighs), allowing enough clearance for your body from your toes to your chest.
Cut the third panel 32" wide x 33" high which will rest vertically on top of the second panel, next to your chest. Out of this piece cut out about a 9" wide x 16" high opening, centered from side to side for a wood framed 1/8" thick plexiglass view panel, similar to a windshield. Bottom of the view panel should be about 34" above ground. Next cut two (2) round holes, approximately 18" center to center, centered in the 32" width, and about 35" above the ground for "TIP'S" plastic inserts for their long arm blasting rubber gloves.

Cut the fourth horizontal panel 32" wide x 24" front to back for the top of the cab extending from the vertical windshield panel to the open rear of the cab.
Cut the fifth and sixth two (2) vertical side panels identical, (similar to the shape of a thick letter L); i. e., from ground, 27" high vertical cut at front for firewall, then a 22" horizontal cut, next a 33" high vertical cut for view panel piece, and a 24" horizontal cut for the top. Overall height at open rear is about 59" tall and overall depth front to back resting on ground is about 46"; however, dimensions may vary depending on size of person.
Fit all pieces together at all joints with 3/4" x 1-1/2" wood chines and secure with wood screws.
When in this cab, you can sit comfortably and you do not need a mask or filter if your back facing the wind. The sand falls to the ground before it comes around the rear opening of the cab.
You can sand blast small parts on the table, or set your fenders, doors, and entire chasis on saw horses or whatever, and even move this light weight cab around items to be blasted. You can use inexpensive polyetnelene film, "visqueen" to capture blasting sand, filter same with TIP'S screen and re-use it. Many lumber yards have inexpensive blasting sand and visqueen.
You can solder two pieces of electrical conduit together, attach the plastic tube, and draw sand out of a 5 gallon plastic pail as indicated in TIP'S catalog.
My son's use it often to blast paint off of old wrought iron door locks and hardware. H. L. Chauvin

[MikeK]

I can offer another suggestion to make the media (grit!) flow better through any siphon gun. I worked one summer while in school at a repair shop that had several blast cabinets and also blasters on wheels. They were all modified with the addition of a bin vibrator- some were 110V, some pneumatic. They were bolted on the side of the bin a few inches above the siphon pickup, and the siphon hose was clamped to the bin right next to the vibrator. Very noisy when you stepped on the pedal, but no clogs with the media 'fluidized' by the vibes.

[havi]

http://www.tptools.com/ Not sure if they went out of business or not, but I stopped getting their catalogs about a year ago.

[Doug in NJ]

I built a cabinet several years ago from Tptools' parts kit and plans. It has been incredibly useful.

I would post a link to photos of it, but my photo web site is broken at the moment.

Doug

[RTC1930]

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I picked up a Job Smart siphon gun from tractor supply for $20 that works pretty well. It works way better then the campbell Hausfield one I had before it. The pickup tube is almost a 2" diameter so it never clogs. My only complaint is that you sometimes fight the fight the pick-up tubes stiffness.

I also built a DIY cabinet out of an old table saw base with solid metal sides that was laying around. I tried to make it just large enough for the rims but kinda back fired cause it was too tight with the rim AND the gun in it. Works ok but saw one made from a 55 gal drum on the hamb that looked really cool.

Good Luck
Bob NJ

[Kevin in NJ]

The TPtools glass bead gun is a very reliable unit.

I strongly suggest that you spend the extra money for the carbide tip. They last significantly longer than the ceramic. Since they are so stable they are very consistent for a very long time. The ceramic wear fast and when they get a bit wide they do not function as well so half the time you are using them they are not working as well.

I have a tp cabinet and have many hours on it over the last 20 years. I have gone through 2 or 3 carbide tips in that time. In the first couple of years, I had gone though a couple of packages of ceramic.

[RB35]

I built the TP cabinet from their plans and parts, lined it with thin galvanized from the ducts at Home Depot. Drilled a 3" hole in the door and can do axles and wishbones (1/2) at a time.
RB

[FredK]

Pictures please!

[Cool Hand Lurker]

I have never used a siphon gun sand blaster that didn’t have a problem plugging up. The sand tends to pack up in the siphon tube. The vibrator that MikeK speaks about in the post above is a very good idea. Another alternative is having a hopper that is about as high as the gun will be, with a “T” fitting on the bottom so the sand drops into the siphon air stream.

If you haven’t already built your cabinet I can suggest using a vinyl shower stall. You can get them used or new, just keep your eyes open. The site “doitbest.com” has one for $125. The advantages of using an old shower are many. Cheap, good height, large door, good light. If you simply hang a 4’ fluorescent shop light on the outside it will really light up the inside. You can put an old wheel hub from the rear of a front wheel drive car in the base, put a platform on top of it, then use it as a rotating table. The door is not really needed, just a shower curtain on the lower half and a piece of plexiglas on the upper half so you can see through. Put in a couple of hand holes in the front and an exhaust fan on the top where there is already a hole for the light.

They work well for a small paint booth too. Oh yeah, don’t hook up the water!

[JoeWay]

Here's the one I built from TIP plans in about 1987, from furniture-grade particle board. I've been using it every day in my business for the last 17 years. The back panel right in front of the operator position has eroded maybe 1/4" deep in a few spots, so I will probably install an overlay maybe 18" x 36" on the back wall.


I made it 48" wide instead of 36" per the TIP plans. TIP has you throw away the 1' strips, and I couldn't see wasting the material and not having the larger cabinet. I had to re-calculate the walls of the funnel, but that was no big deal.

I wouldn't be without this tool.

Joe

[Doug in NJ]

Here are some photos of the blast cabinet that I built from the parts kit and plans from tptools.com:

http://www.dougbraun.com/model_a_gal...g2_itemId=1244

Doug

[havi]

Thanks, Doug. My mind works better with pictures to follow, as I am looking to do the same this Summer, hopefully.

[SteveM]

Originally Posted by RTC1930

I also built a DIY cabinet out of an old table saw base with solid metal sides that was laying around.

Bob, I have one of those bases lying around!

Can you post pics?

Steve

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Another almost ready-made cabinet that is in abundant supply came to mind as I was staring at a pile of junk the other day. It was an old clothes dryer cabinet. There is already a door on the front where you could put the window, an exhaust vent in the back, a power cord for lights and a nice white finish. Just cut some hand holes, cut a door in the side, put a funnel hopper in the bottom and put on some angle-iron legs. They are sitting everywhere, free just for the asking. And you even get a parts tumbler to boot!

[Sid the Maineiac]

TP TOOLS is still in business! Their # is 800-321-9260.I'm sure they would love to send you a catalog.They have plans to build one from and needed parts you can buy.They are also on line at www.tptools.com.Hope this helps!

[RTC1930]

Originally Posted by SteveM

Bob, I have one of those bases lying around!

Can you post pics?

Steve

Here it is. Nothing fancy and its pretty cheezy but I spent all my money on car parts and was desperate. I turned the saw base upside down and used some scrap wood and lots of liquid nails to close it in. I used toilet flanges (new of course) with hose clamps to hold the gloves. I made a V shaped bottom to keep the sand flowing. One of these days I'll make legs for it instead of saw horses. I wish it was bigger though, it was a bit too tight with a rim in it.

[Rich in Tucson]

Thanks for all of the suggestions, TP Tools is in fact still in business and I just got a confirmation that goodies I ordered are on the way.