The Ford Barn

Brian Philpott · 05-11-2010, 09:29 AM

Well done on the new website. I look forward to future developments.
I've purchased a set of cast iron drums and hubs and need to fit the bearing cone tracks into the front hubs. They are a slight interference fit. Is it best to make up tooling to pull these in cold or is it better to heat up the hub/drum assembly? I have a fan oven available as the wife is away for a couple of days!!! If heat is recommended, how hot do I need to go to get the tracks to slide in. I don't want to distort the new (expensive) drums.
Many thanks in advance.

Kevin in NJ · 05-11-2010, 10:17 AM

Use the old bearing to set in the new with a hammer.

They should be a snug fit. It is not uncommon to find a hub where the race has spun. If the surface of the hub where the race goes looks shiny then the race has spun. A good surface will have kind of rough machine marks. First try to wiggle the bearing in by hand, I had one hub you could set a bearing in by wiggling.

Before you put the bearings in you need to inspect for burrs. The bottom shoulder should be flat. Use the end of a file to check for burrs and clean the edge. Visually check that the race has fully seated. If in doubt try sliding a .001" feeler between the shoulder and the race. You should not be able to insert the feeler anywhere around the edge.

Remember to fully fill the new bearings with wheel bearing grease. This can be done the old fashioned manual way in the palm of your hand. The grease should be fully packing the cage. You can look up this method on the internet.

You will not distort the drums inserting the races. You can distort the races if the rim contact points are not level. If your wheels have powder coat or paint on the two contact 'rings' that is not even then you can cause the drum to distort. Sanding the two "rings" to metal will make them level.

fordfixer · 05-11-2010, 10:46 AM

You are looking for a interference fit. I usually find a heavy duty socket and use this to drive in the bearing race. I would never use heat in this process. Make sure the race is seated, and then pack the bearings good and your done. I have also just used a heavy flat face punch to set in the races. Hope this helps.

Russ/40 · 05-11-2010, 10:54 AM

If the new race can be inserted by hand fit, the prior race has spun. Use Loctite when inserting the race to prevent any movement. Use the "worn parts" loctite in the silver tube.

Jim Parker Toronto · 05-11-2010, 10:56 AM

Using a hammer and a drift or a punch will put the new races in. Hammer them down good and alternate hits around the race to drive them home. Pack the new bearings by hand by putting grease in the palm of your hand, wiping the grease in the open side of the bearings until it comes out along the rollers. I use Quaker State multipurpose wheel bearing grease made for disc brakes because it will travel to the hot spots instead of running away. (supposedly)

Tom Wesenberg · 05-11-2010, 01:43 PM

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And, the final step is installing the flat washer and castle nut. Don't make the nut tight!!! I've seen bearings ruined because someone thought the front bearing should have a lot of preload. Just grab a box or open end wrench that fits the nut and snug it up while spinning the wheel, then back it off and let the weight of the wrench handle be the amount of tightness. If the slot doesn't line up, but is in the center of two slots, you might be better to loosen the nut to line up the slot. Then install the cotter pin.

I also smear a fair amount of grease all around the inside of the hub bearing cavity. I've seen bare spots that have developed rust. The grease doesn't always spread to cover bare spots.

05-11-2010, 09:29 AM	#1
Brian Philpott Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 8	Fitting New Front Hub Bearings Well done on the new website. I look forward to future developments. I've purchased a set of cast iron drums and hubs and need to fit the bearing cone tracks into the front hubs. They are a slight interference fit. Is it best to make up tooling to pull these in cold or is it better to heat up the hub/drum assembly? I have a fan oven available as the wife is away for a couple of days!!! If heat is recommended, how hot do I need to go to get the tracks to slide in. I don't want to distort the new (expensive) drums. Many thanks in advance.

05-11-2010, 10:17 AM	#2
Kevin in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South East NJ Posts: 3,398	Re: Fitting New Front Hub Bearings Use the old bearing to set in the new with a hammer. They should be a snug fit. It is not uncommon to find a hub where the race has spun. If the surface of the hub where the race goes looks shiny then the race has spun. A good surface will have kind of rough machine marks. First try to wiggle the bearing in by hand, I had one hub you could set a bearing in by wiggling. Before you put the bearings in you need to inspect for burrs. The bottom shoulder should be flat. Use the end of a file to check for burrs and clean the edge. Visually check that the race has fully seated. If in doubt try sliding a .001" feeler between the shoulder and the race. You should not be able to insert the feeler anywhere around the edge. Remember to fully fill the new bearings with wheel bearing grease. This can be done the old fashioned manual way in the palm of your hand. The grease should be fully packing the cage. You can look up this method on the internet. You will not distort the drums inserting the races. You can distort the races if the rim contact points are not level. If your wheels have powder coat or paint on the two contact 'rings' that is not even then you can cause the drum to distort. Sanding the two "rings" to metal will make them level.

05-11-2010, 10:46 AM	#3
fordfixer Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Crete, Illinois Posts: 296	Re: Fitting New Front Hub Bearings You are looking for a interference fit. I usually find a heavy duty socket and use this to drive in the bearing race. I would never use heat in this process. Make sure the race is seated, and then pack the bearings good and your done. I have also just used a heavy flat face punch to set in the races. Hope this helps.

05-11-2010, 10:54 AM	#4
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: Fitting New Front Hub Bearings If the new race can be inserted by hand fit, the prior race has spun. Use Loctite when inserting the race to prevent any movement. Use the "worn parts" loctite in the silver tube.

05-11-2010, 10:56 AM	#5
Jim Parker Toronto Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,289	Re: Fitting New Front Hub Bearings Using a hammer and a drift or a punch will put the new races in. Hammer them down good and alternate hits around the race to drive them home. Pack the new bearings by hand by putting grease in the palm of your hand, wiping the grease in the open side of the bearings until it comes out along the rollers. I use Quaker State multipurpose wheel bearing grease made for disc brakes because it will travel to the hot spots instead of running away. (supposedly)

05-11-2010, 01:43 PM	#6
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Fitting New Front Hub Bearings Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) And, the final step is installing the flat washer and castle nut. Don't make the nut tight!!! I've seen bearings ruined because someone thought the front bearing should have a lot of preload. Just grab a box or open end wrench that fits the nut and snug it up while spinning the wheel, then back it off and let the weight of the wrench handle be the amount of tightness. If the slot doesn't line up, but is in the center of two slots, you might be better to loosen the nut to line up the slot. Then install the cotter pin. I also smear a fair amount of grease all around the inside of the hub bearing cavity. I've seen bare spots that have developed rust. The grease doesn't always spread to cover bare spots.