The Ford Barn

demingboy · 07-04-2021, 05:14 PM

Hi.
I searched the forum but did not find a similiar situation. So another carb question please.
Have a 1951 ford flathead in my 41 ford. Has a Holley 94 on it. Darn thing starts and runs fine. Untill I let it sit for a week. Then it refuses to start unless I prime it with some gas down the throat. After that life is good.
My question is whatta ya think this is? Float sticking? Power valve gone dry?
Car came to me with a rebuilt carb so they said. And it does ok untill it does not.
Fuel pump is new.

51504bat · 07-04-2021, 05:23 PM

The 8ba in my '39 p/u had a similar problem which from what I gather is not all that uncommon to flatheads. My solution was an electric fuel pump mounted just in front of the rear gas tank. Wired to a toggle switch under the dash. When ever the truck sits for a while I hit the switch until the carb fills up, turn it off and crank it over. Starts just fine. Others use a momentary toggle switch so as not to leave the pump running. Choice is yours if you go the electric pump route. I'm sure others will have other thoughts but this works for me.

flatford8 · 07-04-2021, 05:59 PM

My ‘50 used to do that. I would take the air filter off, hold my hand over the carb and jump the solenoid to turn it over till I saw fuel in the clear filter. Then it would start right up. I ended up changing the fuel pump and that fixed the issue. You want to use one of the flexible fuel lines with the check valve.......Mark

tubman · 07-04-2021, 06:20 PM

Whenever I do any work on a 94, one of the last things I do is to leave the top off and fill the bowl with gas. I have a special metal pan I put it in and loosely cover it. I let it sit over night and check the next morning. If the fuel level in the float bowl has gone down a detectable amount, there is usually a problem with the power valve (a leak in the valve itself, or a poor-fitting valve). There are some with enough experience and skill to install power valves without checking them this way, but I'm not one of them. There's always a small chance of a leak in the base to body gasket, or a porous or cracked body.

Shoovel · 07-04-2021, 06:26 PM

Charlie Price has some real good videos on YouTube in regards to rebuilding the 94 and 97. His kits also have the correct power valve.

!!!RIOT!!! · 07-04-2021, 07:24 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 51504bat

The 8ba in my '39 p/u had a similar problem which from what I gather is not all that uncommon to flatheads. My solution was an electric fuel pump mounted just in front of the rear gas tank. Wired to a toggle switch under the dash. When ever the truck sits for a while I hit the switch until the carb fills up, turn it off and crank it over. Starts just fine. Others use a momentary toggle switch so as not to leave the pump running. Choice is yours if you go the electric pump route. I'm sure others will have other thoughts but this works for me.

Agree with this. I did the same and it works perfectly.

This is the one:
https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8902-.../dp/B005E9DKWW

Charlie ny · 07-04-2021, 08:02 PM

My memory's not too sharp but didn't I build you a carb and/or pump lately ? Regard-
less if the car fires up real nice after sitting just one or two nights then most likely the
carb is good and most likely the pump has trouble self priming. A tiny air leak somewhere
on the suction side can cause this to happen. It is a fact the some of the early flex
hoses connecting the hard line from the tank to the pump can draw air in but not show an external leak. Addtionally the valves in the pump might not be sealing effectively or the bowl gasket could have shrunk.
Charlie ny

tubman · 07-04-2021, 08:52 PM

Now that Charlie mentioned it, I had this happen to me once a long time ago. I found that for some reason, a cork bowl gasket seals better than a neoprene one. It would seem it would be the other way, but I found it was not.

flatjack9 · 07-04-2021, 10:53 PM

I also prefer the cork gasket.

demingboy · 07-05-2021, 10:01 AM

Hi Charlie. I am proud to say I have one of your distributors in my possesion. Its why you remember me.

1948F-1Pickup · 07-05-2021, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubman

Whenever I do any work on a 94, one of the last things I do is to leave the top off and fill the bowl with gas. I have a special metal pan I put it in and loosely cover it. I let it sit over night and check the next morning. If the fuel level in the float bowl has gone down a detectable amount, there is usually a problem with the power valve (a leak in the valve itself, or a poor-fitting valve). There are some with enough experience and skill to install power valves without checking them this way, but I'm not one of them. There's always a small chance of a leak in the base to body gasket, or a porous or cracked body.

Yup. You should try the “gas” out here in California.....
Completely sealed carb with no issues.... 3/8” loss to evaporation in two days on my workbench. That’s some crappy petrol.

tubman · 07-05-2021, 03:30 PM

We are really lucky here in Minnesota. Because of the efforts of the Minnesota Street Rod Association (and living up in "lake country"), every station has at least one pump of non-oxygenated (no alcohol) premium, even the ones at the supermarket.

If that's not enough, there is a station across from BIR (Brainerd International Raceway) that has genuine race gas available (not the high alcohol stuff some others sell). The last time I bought some it was over $8 a gallon.

corvette8n · 07-05-2021, 06:45 PM

I think that’s why the previous owner of my ‘41 installed an electric pump between the tank and original fuel pump, it’s on a spring switch.

Charlie ny · 07-06-2021, 09:05 AM

The elec pump seems more and more like the fix du'jour. so far I have resisted. If
either my '32 or '41 p'up sit for 3 or 4 days I have to 'crank' a few times before the
mech pump does it's job.
Charlie ny

tubman · 07-06-2021, 10:08 AM

The same with my '51. I had an electric fuel pump on it years ago, but I'm a stickler for "if it worked well from the factory, it should for me". I tinkered with the carb to make sure it didn't leak down, and then made sure the fuel supply system was in top shape. The final step was replacing a slightly leaking neoprene bowl gasket with a new cork one and I finally had it.

The electric pump went the way of all things a month or two later.

07-04-2021, 05:14 PM	#1
demingboy Member Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Cozumel and Deming N.M. Posts: 87	holley 94 Hi. I searched the forum but did not find a similiar situation. So another carb question please. Have a 1951 ford flathead in my 41 ford. Has a Holley 94 on it. Darn thing starts and runs fine. Untill I let it sit for a week. Then it refuses to start unless I prime it with some gas down the throat. After that life is good. My question is whatta ya think this is? Float sticking? Power valve gone dry? Car came to me with a rebuilt carb so they said. And it does ok untill it does not. Fuel pump is new.

07-04-2021, 05:23 PM	#2
51504bat Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: SoCal-Redlands Posts: 3,018	Re: holley 94 The 8ba in my '39 p/u had a similar problem which from what I gather is not all that uncommon to flatheads. My solution was an electric fuel pump mounted just in front of the rear gas tank. Wired to a toggle switch under the dash. When ever the truck sits for a while I hit the switch until the carb fills up, turn it off and crank it over. Starts just fine. Others use a momentary toggle switch so as not to leave the pump running. Choice is yours if you go the electric pump route. I'm sure others will have other thoughts but this works for me. __________________ Making the simple complicated for over 30 years.

07-04-2021, 05:59 PM	#3
flatford8 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Lyman,ME. Posts: 2,629	Re: holley 94 My ‘50 used to do that. I would take the air filter off, hold my hand over the carb and jump the solenoid to turn it over till I saw fuel in the clear filter. Then it would start right up. I ended up changing the fuel pump and that fixed the issue. You want to use one of the flexible fuel lines with the check valve.......Mark __________________ I'm thinkin' about crankin' My ragged ol' truck up and haulin' myself into town. Billy Joe Shaver

07-04-2021, 06:20 PM	#4
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,316	Re: holley 94 Whenever I do any work on a 94, one of the last things I do is to leave the top off and fill the bowl with gas. I have a special metal pan I put it in and loosely cover it. I let it sit over night and check the next morning. If the fuel level in the float bowl has gone down a detectable amount, there is usually a problem with the power valve (a leak in the valve itself, or a poor-fitting valve). There are some with enough experience and skill to install power valves without checking them this way, but I'm not one of them. There's always a small chance of a leak in the base to body gasket, or a porous or cracked body.

07-04-2021, 06:26 PM	#5
Shoovel Member Join Date: Mar 2021 Location: Milton Ontario Canada Posts: 83	Re: holley 94 Charlie Price has some real good videos on YouTube in regards to rebuilding the 94 and 97. His kits also have the correct power valve.

07-04-2021, 08:02 PM	#7
Charlie ny BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 3,019	Re: holley 94 My memory's not too sharp but didn't I build you a carb and/or pump lately ? Regard- less if the car fires up real nice after sitting just one or two nights then most likely the carb is good and most likely the pump has trouble self priming. A tiny air leak somewhere on the suction side can cause this to happen. It is a fact the some of the early flex hoses connecting the hard line from the tank to the pump can draw air in but not show an external leak. Addtionally the valves in the pump might not be sealing effectively or the bowl gasket could have shrunk. Charlie ny

07-04-2021, 08:52 PM	#8
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,316	Re: holley 94 Now that Charlie mentioned it, I had this happen to me once a long time ago. I found that for some reason, a cork bowl gasket seals better than a neoprene one. It would seem it would be the other way, but I found it was not.

07-04-2021, 10:53 PM	#9
flatjack9 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oshkosh, Wi Posts: 4,526	Re: holley 94 I also prefer the cork gasket.

07-05-2021, 10:01 AM	#10
demingboy Member Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Cozumel and Deming N.M. Posts: 87	Re: holley 94 Hi Charlie. I am proud to say I have one of your distributors in my possesion. Its why you remember me.

07-05-2021, 03:30 PM	#12
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,316	Re: holley 94 We are really lucky here in Minnesota. Because of the efforts of the Minnesota Street Rod Association (and living up in "lake country"), every station has at least one pump of non-oxygenated (no alcohol) premium, even the ones at the supermarket. If that's not enough, there is a station across from BIR (Brainerd International Raceway) that has genuine race gas available (not the high alcohol stuff some others sell). The last time I bought some it was over $8 a gallon.

07-05-2021, 06:45 PM	#13
corvette8n Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: 36 miles north of Albany NY Posts: 2,950	Re: holley 94 I think that’s why the previous owner of my ‘41 installed an electric pump between the tank and original fuel pump, it’s on a spring switch.

07-06-2021, 09:05 AM	#14
Charlie ny BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 3,019	Re: holley 94 The elec pump seems more and more like the fix du'jour. so far I have resisted. If either my '32 or '41 p'up sit for 3 or 4 days I have to 'crank' a few times before the mech pump does it's job. Charlie ny

07-06-2021, 10:08 AM	#15
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,316	Re: holley 94 The same with my '51. I had an electric fuel pump on it years ago, but I'm a stickler for "if it worked well from the factory, it should for me". I tinkered with the carb to make sure it didn't leak down, and then made sure the fuel supply system was in top shape. The final step was replacing a slightly leaking neoprene bowl gasket with a new cork one and I finally had it. The electric pump went the way of all things a month or two later.